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Jul 12, 2009

Lander, Day 5, BAWSE

Location: Wild Iris, OK Corral/Right Side

Route Sent:
?, 9, onsight (8 in the guidebook, i'm up grading)
?, 10c, onsight (short but great warm up)
Ride me cowgirl, 10b, onsight (rad, wanders a bit)

Routes Tried:
?, 11c, bail (tweaky slab)
Saddle Tramp, 12a, 1 try (fell at crux, hard to read)


Cowboy Fun

Notes: Went to Joe Kinder's Redpoint Clinic. The same people as yesterday's clinic. I ran into Joe awhile back at VRG. He was injured and kinda bummed. Now is back in the game. There is no one more inspiring to climb with. He loves climbing, especially sport climbing, and wants you to send everything.

Kinda sunny, which sapped the psych. I got on a super heinous 11c. I fell and might have sent 2nd go, but there possibility of injury. No route is worth it. It was interesting watching other people hurl themselves at it, especially after I described in detail what a POS it is. There are three types of people. Some people you can tell. Some people you have to show. Some people have to pee on the electric fence themselves.

I fell trying to onsight an okay 12a. It was jugs to 2-3 move boulder problem, which I read incorrectly. It would have been an easy 2nd goer, but I had to head back to CO. I would like to thank the dude watching me struggle on the boulder problem for not spraying beta, until after I fell. I hate when people spray beta during onsight attempts. I love the onsight game, even when I fail.

There is so much route potential in Lander. I'm bringing a bolt gun next time.