Feb 28, 2016

Lord of the Rungs 2016 - San Francisco Chapter

It is the end of winter. You have spent all winter in the cellar getting strong and crushing bouldering projects in the sun. Thus, it is the logical time for a campus contest!

The annual Lord of the Rungs (LOTR) will take place on March 29, 2016. Learn more at lordoftherungs.com.

I'll be participating at Dogpatch Boulders in San Francisco, California. You can RSVP here.

If you're interested in training for the contest with me, email me directly.

Fierce Tiger Pawing Sand

Nov 28, 2015

LOGPULLIN'


LOGPULLIN', like LOGJAMMIN' only by yourself

Cleaning up new boulders on Sonora Pass, CA
Nice sector about 100ft from 108 near Kennedy Meadows.

Mar 22, 2015

Lord of the Rungs Campusboarding Contest - March 31st



Lord of the Rungs is a campusboarding contest open to everyone.

It will take place March 31st, 2015.

Learn more and register at lordoftherungs.com

Nov 18, 2014

Video Evidence: Sea of Love redpoint at Owltoberfest



An important milestone in my sport climbing progression.

A route I projected years ago became facile through training (e.g., linked boulder problems separated by on-the-wall resting) and tactics (e.g., separating exploration from performance and scheduled deload).

Oct 22, 2014

Video Evidence: Buddhist Palm Redpoint


The reigning Lord of the ForestTM  takes down another hard one.  Owltoberfest is this weekend. Can anyone take his title?

Oct 15, 2014

Hero Pose (Sit) at The Secrets, CA



Fall is kissing the high country in California.

I'm blessed to have another revolution around the planet to enjoy climbing.

I'm also enjoying the new set of guidebooks for South Lake Tahoe. They are clear and accurate guides to a mighty fine area written by someone who has chosen to show his love of climbing by giving back.

Aug 23, 2014

Secret German Training Insights

Play matters.

Climbing and Life are nonlinear; Training should be nonlinear.

Attitude > facilities.

Parts 2-4 are worth the watch.

Jun 10, 2014

A new line at Rainbow, CA



The Lake Tahoe area of California has lifetimes of climbing to develop.

I'm working on becoming a proper soul so I can come back as a climber again to continue The Work.

May 21, 2014

Let the climbing speak for itself



Adam Ondra's tauromachy for another 9A onsight

We live in an incredible age. Not only are new climbing benchmarks are being established, we have previously unthinkable ability to witness them.

The filmmaker displayed taste by favoring long cuts of just climbing and the sounds of struggle as a soundtrack.

Climbing is best when it is simple - A person expressing human potential on the rock.

Apr 19, 2014

Dec 18, 2013

First Ascents on Martini Bar Boulder at Mammoth Bar near Auburn, CA



Mammoth Bar is a fine area with plenty of potential for new hard bouldering and moderate sport routes.

Check out MP.com for more information.

Dec 13, 2013

Recommended: Voodoo Band

You are already stretching and foam rolling (right?). But like all things, your body will adapt and you will enter the land of diminishing returns. Enter Voodoo Band flossing:


After training hard for a couple decades, I've picked up my fair share of injuries and scar tissue.  For example, I have an old meniscus tear from mountain biking that flairs up during long approaches and a current elbow tweak from a lock-off move on a project. Voodoo Band flossing helps maintain the fascia and my supple leopard status.

You can pick up a pair from Rogue Fitness.
 (The dirtbag option is cutting a bicycle inner tube in half.)

Mobility is underrated in climbing. Almost every time someone falls of the top of route they blame their fitness (or even worse, their strength). I rarely hear someone blame their inability to put their body in the right position in space. Lack of mobility is amplified in outdoor climbing, with the increased subtleties of real rock and when often sending comes down to the ability to maximally use rest positions. 

 Extreme mobility is one of Adam Ondra's many attributes that separates him from other climbers

Dec 3, 2013

Bouldering at Auburn Cliffs, CA



Between new routing at Auburn Cliffs, I checked out the bouldering.

There is a very hard line between the lines shown above.

UPDATE: Check out the MP.com page. I'm continuing my mission to share my climbing experience with the world. Remember  - More climbing is better!

Nov 29, 2013

Christmas coming early

New equipment for The Climbing Lab

Priorities:
1. Lose weight
2. Increase mobility
3. Increase finger strength

Nov 16, 2013

Saturday Syke


The parallels between Malham Cove and Owl Tor are clear and plentiful.

There are places on Earth that are special. They are playgrounds for a self-selected few to "rise above."