Sugarloaf Mountain, MD bouldering

I have been busy killin' lichen, takin' photos, and drawin' topos.

Guide coming soon ...

It's The Season: Get Some!

I went to Sugarloaf Mountain, Maryland looking for potential projects and managed a free ascent of the Spiderman Route (aka The Prow), graded A5. A quick Internet search turned up the route has been free climbed before, and the free climbing version is uncreatively called Mikl's Route.

It is classic bouldering on a rope.

If climbing is lifting weights in the woods, this route is a Clean & Jerk.

A Mini-guide to Great Falls National Park: "Dam Boulder"

I am proud to present my latest guide: A Guide to the "Dam Boulder" of Great Falls National Park (Maryland Side). You can pick up a copy here.

Preface: Climbing in the National Parks of the United States of America is a sublime privilege. Great Falls National Park, both sides of the river, is no exception. Great Falls National Park is a sanctuary of natural beauty and outdoor recreation playground just outside of Washington D. C. metro area. Kayakers and roped climbers have known this for decades. Boulders are late coming to the Great Falls party. This guide is an effort to proselytize the "small amazing things" of the park.

Needless to say, the rock quality of Great Fall National Park varies. Closer to the Potomac River is generally better. The "Dam Boulder" (my nickname) is close enough to the Potomac River to yield a mighty fine climbing opportunity. The rock is highly textured but without the over-abundance of features, typical of Mid-Atlantic climbing. Enjoy! (Remember to treat the area with the respect a National Park deserves.)

Approach: Park in the parking lot across from the Old Angler's Inn in Potomac, MD (N 38 58.911 W 77 13.653). From the parking lot, walk right/upstream on the Tow Path to where the canal widens, becoming lake-like. Before crossing a bridge, turn left onto a well-established path. Follow this path for ~50 yards. Then turn right onto another well-established path. The boulders (N 38 58.986 W 77 14.275) are located to the left immediately after walking across on old dam, hence the nickname. You can see a Tow Path bridge from the boulder.

YGMV

YMMV is shorthand to express the breadth of the human experience.

I propose YGMV - "Your Grading May Vary." Grades, a poor proxy for difficulty, change based on weather, beta, personal strengths, and size of pre-climb meals.

Let's acknowledge that YGMV and move onto more interesting problems (figuratively & literally).

Repost: Lessons from The Dead Zone

Lessons from The Dead Zone

A lesson on better bench pressing that applies to climbing (hat tip to Crankenstein).

The Dead Zone for climbers is typically around V5-6. Most climbers don't need more lock-off ability or campusing-on-jugs ability to get the next level. They simply need better technique. They also lack mental, and the resulting behavioral, patterns for success.

Saturday Syke

It is a given this is a high water mark for climbing.

It is far more informative to view it as a thesis on climbing technique. Overall, there is a quickness to Adam's climbing without a loss of precision. He makes the right choices for his style as quickly as possible. Those right choices are facilitated with his extraordinary hip, knee, and ankle mobility. The icing on the cake is his ability to up and down regulatory his intensity level.

Thank you to Black Diamond for making this teachable moment possible by posting the uncut video.

A Step Back & A Step Up

I am very thankful for my current life and the current world.

I would not be an able to indulge in climbing if my body was not healthy. The same is true if I lived in a time and place that did not have a surplus of spare calories and time.

I am also thankful for the Internet. It is a force multiplier for climbing and training information.  I will continue to show my gratitude by contributing my small share.