Sending "Platform Project" at Murray Hill, MD

This is video evidence of my plan to make massive contributions to local climbing this season. The "Platform Project" was listed as an open project at MD Guides. I am honored to open such a nice problem and hope other people will enjoy it.

Thank you to the people who built the platform.

The Problem with Plyometrics

Plyometrics are damn fun. I love campusing. It is a pure expression of power as possible in climbing.

Although it is the most common tool for maximal (max) effort work in climbing, it is not the optimal tool.

Campusing, by its very nature, is non-linear. If your campus board personal record is 1-4-6, 1-4-7 is a quantum leap away.

However if a hangboard is used for max effort work, it is simple to make linear gains. I can add or subtract just a 1/2 lb at time.

It is easier to get from point A to B by taking steps (not leaps).

Saturday Syke

Are first ascents for the first ascentionist or for the community? 

Jonathan Siegrist has decided new climbs are for the community. That means new climbs should be enjoyable while respecting the unique history of each crag.

 Most importantly - They should be shared.

Warren Buffett on Training for Climbing

"Investing is forgoing consumption now in order to have the ability to consume more at a later date."

Warren Buffett

Training for climbing is similar. The monkey trap of constant projecting captures most climbers. I was caught in that trap for years. Now I am letting go of small wins (i.e., trying to climb outside during an East Coast summer) in order to setup a big win in the Fall.

Review: Power Endurance by Steve Bechtel

Climb Strong has released a new training manual - "Power Endurance: Fatigue Management for Rock Climbers."

Power Endurance is a manifesto (e.g., Declaration of Independence and The War of Art), a short document meant to change thoughts and, more importantly, change actions. It is aimed at changing thoughts and actions about training for power endurance climbing. Power endurance climbing, although ill-defined, requires continuous submaximal intensity. This type of climbing is ugly and nasty but essential to sport climbing (and select bouldering).

It is a slim volume, under 60 pages, but is all killer/no filler. The text is clear and light, but heavy with first-hand experience of helping climbers reach their next level. It gives equal weight the why and the how of training power endurance. There are overall training plans and individual workouts. The focus is on-the-wall progressions.

Most of the material has been covered on the website, but I prefer the physical book for my training library. A book gives structure to the logic and weight to the thoughts.

I am using it as the basis for Fall training programs, both for myself and the people I coach.

Like a true training junkie, I always want a little more. Hopefully, Steve Bechtel will provide a bigger fix sometime soon.

Pick up a copy here.

Saturday Syke

A breathtaking mediation on hard climbing.

The hard climbing scene frequently comes across like high school prom, aka "Who was the first to put their hands where?" However, there can be moments of transcendence.

Talking Doesn't Cook Rice

And hanging out on a crash pad doesn't send the project
(or make you a better climber).