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Mar 16, 2009

Intensity Without Obsession

Objective : Climbing Stamina

Training : Variable Intensity Repetitions (VIR), 3 hours

Disneyland for indoor climbers.

75 new problems in 4 days.
How many new problems did your gym set in the last 4 days?

A quality systems board

And a quality campus board

And a freaking tread wall!!

Notes : When I went to the Stone Alliance Film premier last week, I got a free day pass to the Spot Gym in Boulder, CO. I rolled down for a mid-day session. VIR is a gigantic problem/route pyramid. It builds work capacity because by the time you get the top/hardest problems you have already completed many easier problems. Then you have to go back down. I made it a little harder by trying to flash everything. I worked my way up and down through the comp problems, e.g. 1-3-5-7-9-10-8-7-6-4-2. Maxing out on Open #6. There was a stopper move which involved two pinches on a roof to all points off dyno. HARD!!!

It was fun session. I feel very fit for my roadtrip. Frequently, intensity in climbing is equated with obsession. "That guy is intense, he spent 8 years on his project." "She is intense, she sent that climb on her 20th try of the day." I'm not that kind of person. I try really hard while I'm on the climb, but after I just let it go. There are just too many great climbs to focus on just one.
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Labels: Climbing Stamina
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