Objective: Performance
Routes Sent:
Ma and Pa in Kettle, 5.7X, flash (or die)
Mac and Ronnie in Cheese, 10a, flash
Have a Beer with Fear, 11a, flash
Caustic, 11b, 2nd go
Save the heart to eat later, 12a, 2nd go
Total Points: 25
Routes Tried:
Zero. Good roadtripping. I sent everything.
Notes: "Ma and Pa in Kettle" is a classic, 3 bolts in 45ft then no bolts for 45ft to the top. I didn't bring a belay device because I thought all the routes at the crag were sport equipped. I had to belay my second with a Munter. It made my rope super twisty for the rest of the day. The whole deal was lame. It took me 25 minutes to flash "Have a Beer with Fear", 4 bolts!!, because there was epic wind. I was soooo pumped mantling at the end. It was nice ending the Las Vegas lag with a 12a.
Mar 26, 2009
Mar 25, 2009
Las Vegas, Day 3, The Gallery & Sweet Pain
Objective: Performance
Routes Sent:
Buck Muscle World, 9, onsight
Gelatin Pooch, 10a, onsight
Pump Now Pay Later, 10b, onsight
Super Guide, 11a, onsight
The Gambler,11b, 2nd go
Points: 19
Routes Tried:
Sweet Pain, 11d, 2 tries
Glitter Gulch, 11a, 1 try
Putting the Sporty back into Sport Climbing
The first bolt was chopped/ripped out of the wall. I sacked up and went for it anyways.
Shirt off means business time
Notes: The crew went to The Gallery because we had a wide spread of abilities. It was a little too warm for me to get on anything hard. The highlight was an onsight of a fun climb called Super Guide. Evan tried it after me and was not pleased with the quality, aka kinda sandy and chossy. I guess I'm a chossmonger. We finished up the Sweet Pain Wall. I tried to send too many climbs to close together at the end and got nothing.
Routes Sent:
Buck Muscle World, 9, onsight
Gelatin Pooch, 10a, onsight
Pump Now Pay Later, 10b, onsight
Super Guide, 11a, onsight
The Gambler,11b, 2nd go
Points: 19
Routes Tried:
Sweet Pain, 11d, 2 tries
Glitter Gulch, 11a, 1 try
Putting the Sporty back into Sport ClimbingThe first bolt was chopped/ripped out of the wall. I sacked up and went for it anyways.
Shirt off means business timeNotes: The crew went to The Gallery because we had a wide spread of abilities. It was a little too warm for me to get on anything hard. The highlight was an onsight of a fun climb called Super Guide. Evan tried it after me and was not pleased with the quality, aka kinda sandy and chossy. I guess I'm a chossmonger. We finished up the Sweet Pain Wall. I tried to send too many climbs to close together at the end and got nothing.
Mar 24, 2009
Las Vegas, Day 2, Learning To Crimp
Objective: Performance
Problems Sent:
Offering Scam, V1, flash
Basketball Diaries, V2, flash
Cherry Garcia, V3, 1st try today
Unknown, V3, flash (stand to the left of The Prayer)
Unnnamed (Unnamed Boulder), V4, 2nd go (listed as V1 in guide)
St. Louis, V4, project from last trip (from the underclings)
Amazing Grace, V4, 3rd go (first try after I remembered how to climb)
Unnamed (Red Spring Boulder), V5, flash
The Prayer, V6, flash (!)
Total Points: 33
Problems Tried:
I looked at a couple of v6 & v7s but didn’t understand them. The body rarely goes where the mind isn’t ready.
The Ripper of the Day Award goes to who ever ticked this hold.
Do you really need a tick mark for each finger?
For $17 a night, you get a view of a wall. However, there is a pigeon that lives outside my window.
Notes: I went to Red Springs today, a small area about 1 mile from Kraft Boulders. Since it away from the main area, the ambience is more peaceful, but the rock is looser. I meet a rad local climber, Brandon. This is his first year of climbing. I showed him how to crimp. He immediately climbed a grade harder. Red Rocks is all about crimping. That is why it is one of my favorite areas. Thanks to his support, spotting, and extra pad I was able to flash of The Prayer, V6. Hell Yeah! One step closer to my 2009 goal of flashing V7. I’m done “practicing.” Bring on the sport climbing.
Problems Sent:
Offering Scam, V1, flash
Basketball Diaries, V2, flash
Cherry Garcia, V3, 1st try today
Unknown, V3, flash (stand to the left of The Prayer)
Unnnamed (Unnamed Boulder), V4, 2nd go (listed as V1 in guide)
St. Louis, V4, project from last trip (from the underclings)
Amazing Grace, V4, 3rd go (first try after I remembered how to climb)
Unnamed (Red Spring Boulder), V5, flash
The Prayer, V6, flash (!)
Total Points: 33
Problems Tried:
I looked at a couple of v6 & v7s but didn’t understand them. The body rarely goes where the mind isn’t ready.
The Ripper of the Day Award goes to who ever ticked this hold.Do you really need a tick mark for each finger?
For $17 a night, you get a view of a wall. However, there is a pigeon that lives outside my window.Notes: I went to Red Springs today, a small area about 1 mile from Kraft Boulders. Since it away from the main area, the ambience is more peaceful, but the rock is looser. I meet a rad local climber, Brandon. This is his first year of climbing. I showed him how to crimp. He immediately climbed a grade harder. Red Rocks is all about crimping. That is why it is one of my favorite areas. Thanks to his support, spotting, and extra pad I was able to flash of The Prayer, V6. Hell Yeah! One step closer to my 2009 goal of flashing V7. I’m done “practicing.” Bring on the sport climbing.
Mar 23, 2009
Las Vegas, Day 1, Home of the Yuppie Climber
Objective: Performance
Problems Sent:
I Disagree, V1, flash
Unnamed (Bathtub boulder), V2, 2nd go (foot broke on flash)
Charleston Syndrome, V3, flash
The Clam Bumper, V3, flash
Odyssey, V3, flash
Unnamed (Bill’s Boulder), V3, flash
Unnamed (slopey traverse boulder), V4, 3rd go, (good problem, no chalk)
Rub One Off, V4, 2nd go
Bathtub, V5, 2nd go
Classic Monkey, V6, project
Total Points: 28
Problems Tried:
a bunch of contrived turd balls
The Pearl, V4, 3 tries (this problem is epic for me, WTF)
My Tan, V6, 2 tries (hard deadpoint stopper move)
No Top, V6, 2 tries (flashed to deadpoint, couldn’t commit)
Grunting & Punting
Notes: The weather was nearly perfect at Kraft Boulders. I have sent almost all the easy classics, expect The Pearl. The send of the day was Classic Monkey, V6. I have tried it on/off for years. I decided today was the day. It took me 10 minutes to remember my sequence and 1 hour to execute. I don't know if it is the best method since I have never seen anyone else on it. I almost did 3rd try but punted going for the jugs. Trying to send a project is a horrible experience for me. I feel weak, heavy, and old. After I sent, a switch flicked. A wave of joy and adrenaline engulfed me. It made the extended effort worth it.
I’m enjoying my Zone meal at Whole Foods. I will crank soon, then enjoy the hot tub at the hotel.
Problems Sent:
I Disagree, V1, flash
Unnamed (Bathtub boulder), V2, 2nd go (foot broke on flash)
Charleston Syndrome, V3, flash
The Clam Bumper, V3, flash
Odyssey, V3, flash
Unnamed (Bill’s Boulder), V3, flash
Unnamed (slopey traverse boulder), V4, 3rd go, (good problem, no chalk)
Rub One Off, V4, 2nd go
Bathtub, V5, 2nd go
Classic Monkey, V6, project
Total Points: 28
Problems Tried:
a bunch of contrived turd balls
The Pearl, V4, 3 tries (this problem is epic for me, WTF)
My Tan, V6, 2 tries (hard deadpoint stopper move)
No Top, V6, 2 tries (flashed to deadpoint, couldn’t commit)
Grunting & Punting
Notes: The weather was nearly perfect at Kraft Boulders. I have sent almost all the easy classics, expect The Pearl. The send of the day was Classic Monkey, V6. I have tried it on/off for years. I decided today was the day. It took me 10 minutes to remember my sequence and 1 hour to execute. I don't know if it is the best method since I have never seen anyone else on it. I almost did 3rd try but punted going for the jugs. Trying to send a project is a horrible experience for me. I feel weak, heavy, and old. After I sent, a switch flicked. A wave of joy and adrenaline engulfed me. It made the extended effort worth it.
I’m enjoying my Zone meal at Whole Foods. I will crank soon, then enjoy the hot tub at the hotel.
Mar 22, 2009
Joe's Valley, So Good You Wouldn't Think It Was Sandstone
Objective: Performance
Problems Sent:
Unamed, V1, flash
The Face Left, V1, flash
High Ride, V2, flash
Dustbuster, V2, flash
Small One, V2, flash
Midget, V3, flash
Pint Size, V3, flash
Skins Game, V3/4, flash
Pee Wee, V4, 2nd go
Slap Me Silly, V4, flash
Chit, V4, flash
Rug Rat, V5, 4/5 tries (I kept epicing on the top out arete)
Black & Blue, V6, <1 hour (tricky long crux move, sent 2nd try after doing crux)
Total Points: 40.5
Problems Tried:
Walrus, V5, 3 tries (I was shredding at this point)
Mr Mephosropholies, V6, 3 tries (dirty and contrived)
Moby Dick, V6, 4 tries (there must be trick beta)
Team Effort, V6/8, 2 tries (not that great, funky heelhook)
Hooters, V9, 2 tries (Need more crimp power!!!)
A great climbing area with horrible weather
Every trip to Joe's ends the same way, driven out by snow and wind.
Notes: I rolled up to Joe's with just enough time to flash to 2 V4s (with no warm-up) before darkness. I spent the next day at the Right Fork, which I have never been to before. I tried to send as many new problems before the storm. I cranked hard but climbed poorly, lots of foot cutting and thrutching. Not my best day, but still a day of climbing. I'm looking forward to old friends, sport climbing, and better weather in Sin City.
Problems Sent:
Unamed, V1, flash
The Face Left, V1, flash
High Ride, V2, flash
Dustbuster, V2, flash
Small One, V2, flash
Midget, V3, flash
Pint Size, V3, flash
Skins Game, V3/4, flash
Pee Wee, V4, 2nd go
Slap Me Silly, V4, flash
Chit, V4, flash
Rug Rat, V5, 4/5 tries (I kept epicing on the top out arete)
Black & Blue, V6, <1 hour (tricky long crux move, sent 2nd try after doing crux)
Total Points: 40.5
Problems Tried:
Walrus, V5, 3 tries (I was shredding at this point)
Mr Mephosropholies, V6, 3 tries (dirty and contrived)
Moby Dick, V6, 4 tries (there must be trick beta)
Team Effort, V6/8, 2 tries (not that great, funky heelhook)
Hooters, V9, 2 tries (Need more crimp power!!!)
A great climbing area with horrible weatherEvery trip to Joe's ends the same way, driven out by snow and wind.
Notes: I rolled up to Joe's with just enough time to flash to 2 V4s (with no warm-up) before darkness. I spent the next day at the Right Fork, which I have never been to before. I tried to send as many new problems before the storm. I cranked hard but climbed poorly, lots of foot cutting and thrutching. Not my best day, but still a day of climbing. I'm looking forward to old friends, sport climbing, and better weather in Sin City.
Mar 17, 2009
Don't You Ever Wash That Thing
Objective: Climbing Stamina
Training: Continuous Intensity Repetition (CIR) with an evil twist, 2+ hours
Notes: I did the CIR with Advanced problems I have already done. I switched it up to make it more interesting. I would climb a problem once. Then I would repeat the same problem with an additional 10lb weight vest. I did this for 8 problems. There were 4 additional problems I couldn't repeat with the weight vest because they contained very dynamic moves. That made for a total of 20 problems for each round. I completed 3 rounds for a total of 60 problems.
A training guru said, "You can train climbing endurance every day." Ain't that the truth, given you have a little caffeine and an ipod. I want to climb hard everyday on my spring break so I better train for it. Training every other day is great way to get strong, stress then recovery, but endurance/stamina is different animal.
Training: Continuous Intensity Repetition (CIR) with an evil twist, 2+ hours
Notes: I did the CIR with Advanced problems I have already done. I switched it up to make it more interesting. I would climb a problem once. Then I would repeat the same problem with an additional 10lb weight vest. I did this for 8 problems. There were 4 additional problems I couldn't repeat with the weight vest because they contained very dynamic moves. That made for a total of 20 problems for each round. I completed 3 rounds for a total of 60 problems.
A training guru said, "You can train climbing endurance every day." Ain't that the truth, given you have a little caffeine and an ipod. I want to climb hard everyday on my spring break so I better train for it. Training every other day is great way to get strong, stress then recovery, but endurance/stamina is different animal.
Mar 16, 2009
Tequila Lesbian
Objective : Cross-training
Warm up: 3 rounds
row 500m (1:47, 1:47, 1:47)
rest as needed
Training: (1) Back Squat
275 X5
295X4
295X1
(2) "Cindy Light"
As Many Rounds As Possible (AMRAP) in 10 minutes (11 rounds)
5 pull-ups
10 push-ups
15 squats
Heartbeaker
Notes: Since I'm only training climbing endurance, a little extra cross-training won't screw with it. I think CrossFit is the best cross-training program out there. I cheated and looked at the affiliate's website to make sure the WOD wasn't wacky. This is my favorite flavor of the Koolaid, a high volume session with a strength component. I haven't back squatted heavy fives in a long time. I blew my load on the second set (it happens with random training). My diet was very bad (for me) last three days because I had guests visiting. I could feel it on "Cindy Light". I got "gassed." I usually never get "gassed." It is good motivation to rebuild my foundation.
Warm up: 3 rounds
row 500m (1:47, 1:47, 1:47)
rest as needed
Training: (1) Back Squat
275 X5
295X4
295X1
(2) "Cindy Light"
As Many Rounds As Possible (AMRAP) in 10 minutes (11 rounds)
5 pull-ups
10 push-ups
15 squats
Heartbeaker
My first 2 rounds of "Cindy"
Notes: Since I'm only training climbing endurance, a little extra cross-training won't screw with it. I think CrossFit is the best cross-training program out there. I cheated and looked at the affiliate's website to make sure the WOD wasn't wacky. This is my favorite flavor of the Koolaid, a high volume session with a strength component. I haven't back squatted heavy fives in a long time. I blew my load on the second set (it happens with random training). My diet was very bad (for me) last three days because I had guests visiting. I could feel it on "Cindy Light". I got "gassed." I usually never get "gassed." It is good motivation to rebuild my foundation.
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