This Is Not That

Training: 1) Technique



2) Flash Ladder



3) Power Endurance, Long



4) Power Snatch



5) 1-arm bench



6) Core/Prehab



Moon Board & The Bay
Training Nirvana

My Nemesis
40+ ft @ ~45 degrees
No Place To Hide/Rest

Notes: Medium Intensity/High Volume. Back to PG of SF. I'm a routesetting snob and those people do it right. Every problem at every grade is a lesson in movement. My intercostals are still sore from reverse crunch strip sets. (Note to self - I'm not a bodybuilder thus DON'T DO STRIP SETS!)



#1 Worked on crossing moves. Getting better. Thinking that outside crosses are a different species than indoor crosses, same genius. #2 I love flash ladders. Great way to trick myself into high volume of quality moves. Today's pyramid - (5 x V4, 4 x V5, 3 x V6, 2 x V7, 1 x V8, 2 x V7, 3 x V6, 4 x V5, 5 x V4) I didn't get the V8, and I realize those are "indoor grades." #3 There was nice 30 move V4 that went up the ramp. I eek out ascents outside by resting & recovering. There was no resting on this beast. Just a lovely lactic acid bath. I got wet 8 times with 3:00-3:30 rest between dips, aka Song Intervals. #4 Singles @ 135, 145(f), 135, 135, 135. My standard baseline in PS. #5 3x8 @ 55. Great Ab/Horizontal pushing exercise. I don't do enough. Remembered it when reading Dan John's book "Never Let Go". Highly recommended (the exercise and the book). #6 Redirecting my core and prehab work. Standing core only. Dropping prehab exercises that don't work for me.

The Best Chain on the Slaveship

Training: 1) Technique

2) Competition Simulation

3) Threshold Bouldering/Technique

4) CIR

5) Prehab

Listen to the Nugget

Notes: Last "Heavy Day" before the comp. Only climbing but laser focused climbing. #1 Focused on being relaxed. “Slow is smooth and smooth is fast” (Stolen from Dan John. Who probably stole it from someone else.) #2 Flash some hardish stuff. At several points, I was heel hooking hard enough to almost cramp up. I'm curious about the cause - suboptimal technique, electrolyte imbalance, hamstring weakness, leg fatigue, or something else. Focused on learning the tricks of the competition setters. Learning from the past - most national champions were from Boulder, CO and most national championship setters were from Boulder, CO. (Quite the coincidence). #3 Focused on movements that are difficult for me. #4 Advanced problem repeats with near complete rest. #5 No abs or strength training today.

Thingsgetting Day

Training: 1) Technique

2) Competition Simulation

3) Campus/Hangboard

4) Stamina

5) Prehab/Core

High of 30 ...

3ft of snow on the boulders ...

Time to Hit The Board!!!

Notes: Coming off a successful 2+ week roadtrip (more about that later). New cycle - Contest Prep. Attacking specific weaknesses - reading heel hooks during flash attempts, indoor pinches, and stamina for 3 hours of sending. #1 - foot hoover, decompress, keep technique the same as grades increase (stolen from Olympic Lifting training) #2 - I flashed the second hardest problem in the gym. The hardest "problem" was 13+ moves. Most routes I do aren't 13 moves. #3 Was syked on a campusboard with pinches until I found out that 50% were spinners. GUTTER!! Lack of quality control. Settled for flat rungs (non-standard spacing of course) #4 Sent 95% of the problems in the gym, expect for the problems set for double-jointed leprechauns. #5 Left shoulder is a 3 on a scale from 1 (mighty healthy) to 10 (schedule the surgery suite). Need to reprioritize durability (durability = mobility + strength, Mountain Athlete definition).

Clydesdale Climber

Training: 1) Continuous Climbing, .5 block

2) 3x repeats, 1 block

3) 6x3 bouldering intervals, rest as needed

4) BS, 3X5, 205

5) Press, 3x5, 130 (f)

6) Prehab

Notes: Last training session before roadtrip. No need to taper because I'm in a performance cycle. Session geared towards efficiency. My current focus on outside bouldering has lead to some bad habits. #1 - Best way to trick myself into becoming a better climber. #2 - All diffuciity levels. Rewarded myself with a hard flash every couple of sets. #4 - Way off my all time PR of 315. Choosing to be a climber. #5 Failed on last rep.

Liquid Network

Training: 1) Flash Ladder, 1.5 blocks

2) Power Endurance, .5 blocks

3) Technique, .5 blocks

4) Bench, 3X5, 165lbs

5) Prehab only

Listen & Learn-
Christian Griffith

Notes: I usually leave work around 2pm, which gives me plenty of time for a nice outdoor session (I usually return to work at 8pm). However, an "emergency" came up and had a stay late. Then I choose to climb at a new area that require trail building. I ended up in the gym (OMG) to get a dose. It was fun seeing the scene again.

#1 I ran around and tried to flash everything in the gym. It didn't happen. I rationalized my choice of doing 1.5 blocks by saying, "It was volume training which I don't get outside." It is still doing shit I'm good at. #2 Stuck to "N"s . I sucked really bad. Need to work on mental tolerance to be become a better sport climber. #3 I abuse my strength. Today, I was beating it like a redheaded stepchild. I put myself on time-out by focusing on continuous movement and efficiency (not just effectiveness). #4 Focus on whole body compound movements. Yes, benching is whole body (if you do it right). I don't bench to be a better climber. I bench to be a more useful human being.

I Got Now, I Don't Care Who Got Next

Training: 1) CIR, 1 block

2) VIR, 1 block

3) Press, 3x5, 125

4) Deadlift, 1x5, 275

5) 5 rounds
Swings, 60lbs, 'till lose pop
Push-ups, 'till pause
rest 1:00

I'm a lifer.
I figure I've about 10 years of hard climbing left, but I maximize each day.

Notes: I'm starting my season. Getting outside 4-5 times per week. Training 1 day per week. My two training goals are:

1) Supplement outside climbing
2) Maintain general Strength and Conditioning

This week I worked (and sent) many medium/hard first ascent climbs outside. There is always more figuring and cleaning than doing with first ascents. I tend to climb too tentatively and statically, since the problems are new and dirty. I flipped the coin for my indoor training by doing a high volume of familiar climbs. I worked on flowing and moving efficiently. #1 Homewall, repeated easier climbs #2 Commercial Gym, repeated & flashed climbs. Very crowded but kept moving. #3-5 My maintenance schedule is loosely based on this template. No need to make it complicated since I back at the novice level in the S&C world. I plan to push my numbers in a systematic and sustainable manner. The conditioning was "auto-regulated". Focused on quality of movement (instead of killing myself).

Suspiciously Straight Lines

Training: 1) Technique

2) Campus
Ladder, Medium Rungs, 1-5-8*
Ladder, Small Rungs, 1-4-7X4

3) Flash Ladder

4) Press, 3x5, 115

5) 3 rounds
1-arm pull-up, each arm
10s plank, 1-arm (ring), 1-foot

6) Prehab & Hanging leg raises

* Nonregulation spacing

Notes: Back from a short, fun trip to Lake Tahoe. Still early in the season, i.e. climb in the morning, hangout at the lake, and climb in the evening. There is a general lack of quality problems (in the guidebook) harder than V8. The granite did a number on my skin. Need to build it up for the season. Video ticklist in production.

Listening to the feedback from the last trip. Moved well. Strong enough to give rapid fire tries, which helped to figure out sequences and send. A major, but often forgotten, benefit of strength. No major tweaking in my program. Just increase training volume so I can climb more problems outside.

Went to a "seminal" climbing gym in the US. It was not great. 75% of the holds are pinches. 100% of the holds on problems harder than V7 are pinches. I suck on pinches and don't see a reason to get better. #1 Focused on relaxing and quality movement #2 I was "forced" to campus. The gym has a nonregulation spacing. VERY LAME! It was fun and hard but meaningless. #3 Not only am I weak on pinches, I have very little capacity on them. Most problem went like this: Preview, Setup, Flash most of it, Hard Pinch Move, Fall. #4-6 The conventional gym part really sucks. Too much equipment wedged into a cave. The squat rack faced a mirror which completely throws off my squats. I settled for pressing. My numbers are way off my PRs but it doesn't matter since it is just cross training.

Facebook Grammar

1) Threshold Bouldering

2) Flash Ladder

3) Snatch, Work up to heavy single (155lbs) then 3 singles @ 90%

4) 1 arm press, KB, 50lbs 3x5

5) Core and 1-arm pull-ups

Notes: Training at a pretty good facility. Plenty of hard problems (no hard routes). The routesetting is good and varied. However, some of the feet are high for my body size. #1 Typically Threshold Bouldering focuses on limit-level moves. I did a slight variation, I focused on moves I suck at. These moves were on problems 2 grades easier than my flash level for today. It was "fun" to be humbled. #2 I wanted to get some stamina work and toughen my skin. Lately, I have been doing after work sessions and that doesn't cut it for an up coming road trip. I started at one grade easier than my flash level for today. Started to shred after a little while. Then dropped a grade. Repeat till lack of skin. #3 Oly lifting is fun. I have lost the capacity to train clean & jerk in the same session. #4 I was inspired by this article about core training. This was my first access to the proper equipment.

Here is my rank ordered list of core training for climbers:

1. Power Touches

2. Planks

3. Front Levers

4. L-sit Scissors

5. Ab wheel roll-outs

6. Basic Barbell Exercises

7. 90 degree sit-ups

8. Everything else

Chasing Two Rabbits

1) Technique, .5 block

2) Threshold Bouldering, .5 block

3) Circuit

4) ARC

Successful t-nut and wood chip test

Wood chips are a great tool to improve footwork.

Lord knows I need it.

Notes: #1 - Work on big moves between good holds. It is most important just to get to the holds, in that style of climbing. I make sure I can cover the distance, often at the expense of efficiency. I broke down some big moves and worked on efficiency. #2 - I've been experimenting with some pragmatic mental training. I tested it by trying to match my performance from yesterday, which I did. Another tool in the toolbox. I'm laying the foundation for great fall season. #4 - All Adv Problems right to left in the gym, 10 problems in 12:24 #5 I ARC to cool down until my left knee got funky.

Free Range Human

1) Technique

2) Threshold Bouldering

3) Bouldering

rest 4 hours

4) DT

5) RI

I love climbing movement and can't get enough of these videos.

Notes: 2-a-days can only mean one thing - Full Pre-season #2 Even my Threshold Bouldering follows a progression. My relationship with my current indoor project - Individual moves with open feet (Day 1). Link moves in groups of 2s & 3s (Day 2). Individual moves with tracking feet (Day 3) #3 Sent project problem after 3 days of work (with open feet). #4 Stepped up by swapping out a short easy Adv for harder longer Adv. Adds up over 4 repeats in 20 minutes. #5 Not much in the tank but worked on recovery.

Running East Looking For a Sunset

1) CC, Continuous Climbing

2) Threshold Bouldering

3) Bouldering

The Physical Manifestation of The Climbing Lab

Notes: #1 The goal of Continuous Climbing is to enter a flow state. Minimal thinking, maximal movement. The rest of the session was helped by this created mental state. #2 Worked limit level moves. Repeated them if they had slop I could remove. #3 Focused on sending my "Triple Crown", the three hardest problems in the gym. I fell off the last move of the last problem! Soon I'll need a new training benchmark. Wanted to repeat #1 but the gym was way too crowded by 4pm!

Near Life Experience

1) Threshold Bouldering

2) VIR

Notes: I'm getting bored following Elemental Fitness Programming. Partly, a function of my training facility (I'm working every day on improving that situation). Partly, I have fitness ADD (like most recovering CrossFitters). I went back to Self Coach Climbing programming. The blocks are typically longer. #1 Threshold Bouldering focuses on single hard moves (up to 3 moves in a row sometimes). Whereas, Bouldering focuses on sending. #2 I did all the "Advanced" problems right to left in the gym (~12). I wasn't sure if I could do them in a session. Next time I will repeat them for time (Damn! CrossFit rears it's head).

I'm looking forward to the Self Coach Climbing authors' new book.

And I wish I knew Italian.

Dead Fit Bird

Training: 1) Route Doubles, 2 blocks

2) Density, 1 block

Notes: Lately, I have been intrigued by this interview with Adam Ondra and the book The Talent Code. Climbing is so complex, and foreign to conventional movement, that a massive amount of deep practice is the best path for improvement. Projecting problems limits the amount of climbing moves in a session, misses the "massive amount". Endless traversing or ARCing isn't challenging, misses the "deep practice". The goal is to get both, stay in the zone of proximal development. It requires constant self awareness and adjustment. I can tell a quality training session because I'm mentally and physically exhausted.

#1 - I flashed all the hardest routes in the gym. #2 - I sent everything left to right in the bouldering area. "Feeling Fit" is an understatement. I need to seek out better training options.

Pistols & Frappuccinos

Warm-up: 1) Climb some easy established problems

2) Hike, 45 minutes

Training: 1) Traverse to Problem (TCP), 30 minutes

2) Density Training (DT), 30 minutes
Adv Minus - 7, Adv - 6, Adv Plus - 6, Open Minus - 2

3) Recovery Intervals (RI), 12 min, rest 5 min, 12 min

Notes: I checked out a new sector with above average rock quality. It was fun repeating the established problems. After, I hiked around and found two awesome new bouldering walls. They should keep me occupied for the rest of season. It was a nice appetizer for the entre of training.

Session #2 of Week 1 - #1 Works one of my biggest limiters, bouldering when slightly pumped. Kinda funky because I had to traverse around multiple outside corners to get enough moves in. #2 Plays one of my strengths, stamina. I tried so hard one of my legs cramped. 3 of problems were flashes, including an Open Minus. I had to lay down for 5 minutes before starting the next block. #3 - My endurance is horrible!!!

It was a different "dose" than the 1st session. I had to wait a couple of minutes before the pump went away to undo my shoes and had to pour myself into my car. A good day in the lab.

Radio Face

Training: 1) Flash Pyramid (up to Open), 45 minutes

2) 1 arm pull-ups, singles

Left - 0, +8, +12 (fail by 1''), +8, 0

Right - 0, +5, +8 (fail), 0, 0

3) 3 Rounds

3 Front Lever Raises

Clapping Push-ups till failure

4) 1-arm dip practice

5) Prehab & Core (even some regular pull-ups)

Notes: I felt light and strong today, still at only 95%. I cranked up the volume (~12 more problems) but only increased intensity a little. Typically when I flash I try to climb perfectly. If I don't, I repeat the problem until it is perfect. The goal is not getting to the top. The goal is becoming a better climber. The flash rule adds a mental component usually missing from gym bouldering. My physical skills are modest, but my edge comes from my mental skills. I come to the gym ready to train, 3rd stage. Nothing set in the gym can challenge me the way outside climbing can, so I don't let it. I make a decision to crush and I do.

I switched it up and played the "distillation game." The goal was to still flash but remove superfluous holds and moves, getting to the core of each problem. I add an addition rule - my feet can't cut. Otherwise, I'm training sloppy climbing. I would "flash" the problem conventionally if I missed the distillation flash. It is just a game to keep training fun (and still accomplishing my goals). On the way back down the pyramid, I focused on climbing perfectly and relaxed in a fatigued state.

#1 - I wanted to set a PR in 1 arm pull-ups. I was forced to use 12lbs (instead of 11lbs) because I forgot to bring my own weights to the gym. I failed according to my standards (dead hang from full extension to chin touching hand above wrist). #4- I've never done a 1-arm dip. It sounds like fun.

Poetry's Influence on the GDP

Training: 1) Flash Problems (Up to Adv+), 30 minutes

2) 4 Rounds

Climb ~3:00

Rest 1:1

3) 1 arm pull-ups, triples (w/ assistance at top)

4) 3 rounds

weighted dips, triples, 70lbs

pistols, fives

5) L-sit walk & 1 arm push-ups, "practice"

6) Prehab, sit-ups, & pull-ups

Notes: I tried to get back into climbing shape without the gym, but it wasn't happening fast enough for me. Time for a little smart training. #1 - A medium volume of hard, quality movement. #2 - "Song Intervals", simple but effective for Long Power Endurance Training. Since I have no projects that require meaningful power endurance, it is very difficult to motivate myself. I do it anyways. I even got in some preseason Birthday Challenge training. I just wanted to see how "out of shape" I am.

Awake is the New Asleep

Training: 1) Flash, 99% of the new problems

2) Open Hand, Systemboard
Upper Left, Pull Through with extra small feet

3) Open Hand, Hangboard
Flat Slopers, Switches, 3 rounds

4) 1/2 crimp, System board
#1, Pull through with extra small feet

1 hour Yoga break

5) Prefect Repeats, Adv Problem, 45 minutes

6) 1-arm pull-ups, 3X3 (with assistance)

7) Abs & repeated effort for 1-arms

Notes: There were 2 moves I couldn't flash. More evidence my training is working. I'm over the hill, 30, and not genetically gifted. Simple, hard, focused training has improved my climbing leaps and bounds in the last year. Anyways, both moves involved pinches. That limiter keeps rearing its head. I keep ignoring it. I have never been shut down by a pinch move outside. I'm stepping up my system boarding by using the smallest feet available, always onto the next level.

I have been doing Yoga off and on for about 6 years. Every since I have stopped "cross-training," I have been practicing more. 2x a week at home and 1-2x a week at a class. Backbends are incredibly hard for me. One time I almost passed out trying a Camel Pose in a Bikram's Yoga class. On the other hand, 1-leg balancing is joke (probably from Oly lifting). The "core" work is a joke (probably from gymnastics). Yoga won't do everything, it is not even the best "training" for most things, but it keeps me from becoming a hunchback stressball.

The perfect practice went well. I repeated the problems I flashed before, each one 3x in a row. It is amazing how subtle changes drastically increase efficiency. I feel I have at least 5 more years of consistency climbing before I fully understand climbing movement, probably more like 20 years.

Flagstaff/Movement, Outdoor/Indoor Gym Climbing

Location: Flagstaff Mountain, Boulder, CO

Problems Sent: Y Traverse, V3/4, Flash (i'm the king of flashing traverses, little bit of pump mixed with little bit of numbness)

Location: Movement+Fitness, Boulder, CO

Training: High Intensity Quality Movement, 3 hours

Overlooking The Bubble

A dog, a girl, and some rock

Quality Afternoon

Delicious Snow

Flagstaff has big cobbles

Flagstaff has little cobbles

Notes: Just barely warm enough to crank outside. I up and down climbed a V0, couldn't top-out because of snow, a couple of times to warm-up. LAME! It was fun flashing another quality traverse. I couldn't help myself and got sucked into Flagstaffland by making up a traversey eliminate towards the end of the day. I need to climb outside more to better translate my strength but this wasn't the best opportunity. I spend more time figuring out the location of problems and keeping warming than climbing. Flagstaff climbing doesn't feel that technically demanding, just hard on the skin.

I headed to the gym for some much needed volume, a plethora of harder routes and problems flashes. Skin and tolerance of "scenesters" were the limiting factors.

Bonus: The best guide to Flagstaff.

Nominative Determinism

Training: 1) Foot Hoover Drill, 15 minutes

2) Dyno Practice, 15 minutes

3) 6 rounds
Flash V6
rest 1:00

4) 2 rounds
Redpoint 11c
rest 30s
Redpoint 11c
rest 5:00

Notes: Trying to get better at dynos to up my outside climbing game (weird). I was pressed for time so I compressed the workout by incorporating the stopwatch. It added a nice mental component. I had to preview during the 1:00 minute rest block, while trying to recover. Things got hard real fast. I was sweaty and beat at the end.

Pecked to Death by Baby Ducks

Objective: Climbing Technique, Climbing Stamina

Warm-up: 1) Rec, Up & Down x 10 (Don't Rush)

2) Mobility Drills

3) Int, Up & Down x 5 (Don't Rush)


Training: 1) Technique, Decompress, 20 minutes

2) Flash, New Problems, 20 minutes

3) Technique, Hoover, 20 minutes


Notes: I almost want to count today as 2 technique sessions. It was fun but felt long. Justen gave me some tips on relaxing while climbing. It worked so well, I felt like curling up and falling asleep on crash pad. The technique work immediately carried over to the flashes. I'm still amazed how little improvements in technique translate to huge improvements in performance. It is the quickest path to better climbing (or any sport). I progressed from easy to hard problems. By the time I got to the hard problems, they felt easy. I wasn't training stamina but came along for the ride.