Aug 13, 2009

Biblical Capitalism

Objective: Climbing Technique

Training: 1) Technique, Various Cracks, 30 minutes

2) Project, 12+, 4 solid tries

3) 4 rounds
250m, row
40 push-ups
rest 1:00 between rounds


Think about this next time you're training or projecting.

Notes: Still deloading. I want the local fall season to start. I tried another person's beta on an indoor project. I keep learning the same lessons again and again. I SHOULDN'T TAKE OTHER PEOPLE'S BETA. I know my body better than they do.

Aug 11, 2009

Countries For Clunkers

Objective: Climbing Strength

Training: Maximal hangs, rest as needed
1) Sloper, hard side, middle
53, 63, 63, 63

2) Crimp, easy side, smallest crimp
0, 0, 0, 0

3) 1/2 crimp, easy side, middle outside
53, 53, 58

Weight is Weight

Notes: It is hot. I'm tired. I still trained. Compare to - Previous Session.

Did you hit the hangboard this week? Did you set a PR? I did.

Aug 10, 2009

Castle Greyskull, So Good So FAR

Objective: New Routing

1) Cleaned and sent new route (on TR)
Name - Trying to Get the Man's Foot Outta My Ass (tentative)
Grade - 10+ (tentative)

Alex enjoying the views from the top of Castle Greyskull.

Stash destroyed

The creatures of Castle Greyskull find climbing ropes delicious.

The humans of Castle Greyskull find raspberries delicious.

Crazy shining rocks

I bolted a line in the middle of this face.
The left artete looks much harder/radder.

Notes: Somehow I convinced/tricked Alex into bolting with me at Castle Greyskull on the Poudre River. The hike is brutal, longish, uphill, and does not follow an established trail. I think it is worth it because it is a wild place with high quality rock. After a quick brush to remove the lichen, the routes are ready to go.

I'm developing some single pitches before getting crazy with the multiple pitch. The line I worked on today follows a crack to a roof to technical crimpy crux. I love Castle Greyskull, but I plan to focus my efforts on objectives closer to the road.

Aug 9, 2009

The Devil’s Chalpin

Objective: Active Recovery

Training: Flash routes
(1) Up & Down, 7,8,9,10,11
(2) Up only, 11, 11, 12(f), 12

(3) 3 rounds
10 1-arm swings, left
10 1-arm swings, right
10 2-arm swings
20ft Alligator push-ups


Glad to be back in CO

Notes: I took one complete rest day after my challenge. Today I got back in the gym to work the kinks out with a very easy day. One of biggest problems in doing my own programing is I don't schedule adequate rests and deloads. I'm getting better at resting but still need to work on deloading. Typically, my climbing trips are "deloads."

Aug 7, 2009

Birthday Challenge 2009, 30 years, 30 routes

As a culmination of my increased interest in onsighting sport climbing routes, I decided that a logical, yet slight absurd, Birthday Challenge would be onsighting 30 routes on my 30th birthday. I picked Wild Iris in Lander, WY. It is a beautiful crag, cool in the summer, with short routes.

Hands at the start of the day.

Rad Coffee + Rad Rock = Rad Challenge
The owner of Folklore Coffee in Lander is passionate/obsessed about coffee.
Do yourself a favor and stop by.

Sometime in the middle.
The route follows the lieback crack with no feet.

Most of the climbing was vertical limestone, but there was the occasional 3 dimensional route.
The route is graded 5.8, there were 2 actual holds.

My awesome belayer/girlfriend

Clipping the chains on the 30th route.

Hands at the end of the day.
Not too bad, considering the amount of limestone climbed.

I started the challenge at 7:30 and finished around 5:30, with plenty of time for the Lander Bar. Overall, the challenge was "easy". It was 99% mental. My training prepared me almost perfectly. I was most sore from things I didn't train for - holding clipping positions (I trained mostly by bouldering) and from high stepping (I trained mostly indoors).

I've struggled to come with the proper words to describe the experience. This challenge was a once in a lifetime experience, but felt like just another step along my path of life.

The Numbers
0 - Falls/Takes
1 - Awesome Belayer
2 - Major slips (both within the first 10 routes)
4 - Monos

Ticklist
Grade, Name, Route Number*
7, Greenhorns in Velvet (11)
7, “R” is for Redneck (25)
7, Medicine Show (27)
7, Chapito, (30)
8, Phat Phinger Phrenzy (8)
8, Guns of Diablo (14)
8, Ticks for Chicks (21)
8, La Vaca Peligrossa (23)
8, Slave (24)
8, Huggys Pull-ups (28)
8, Pronghorn Pinnacle, (16)
9, Iron Horse With a Twisted Heart (1)
9, Annie Get Your Drill (10)
9, Saddle Up (17)
9, Britchen Strap (18)
9, The Hanging Tree (22)
10a, Red Ryder (12)
10a, Jabba The Hut (13)
10a, Brown Dirt Cowgirl (7)
10a, Nouveau West (19)
10b, Stacked Deck (2)
10b, Aces & Eights (3)
10b, Never Sit With Your Back to the Door (6)
10b, Wet Wipe-a-Whet (29)
10c, Claim Jumper (9)
10c, The Man From Laramie (20)
10c, Back in the Saddle (26)
10d, Red As a Blooming Rose (4)
10d, Matilda’s Last Waltz (5)
* I forgot to write down route #15

Thank Yous
My Girlfriend - She is probably more relieved than me that Birthdays are 365 days apart
All the equippers - Made the challenge "easy"
Todd Skinner - Enough said
Steve Becthtel & Mountain Athlete - Invaluble training & advice

Aug 6, 2009

Birthday Challenge Time

The day of reckoning is here.

I will attempt to onsight 30 routes tomorrow, 8/7/09. If you are in the Lander area, come on by watch me suffer.

I will be in Wild Iris from 7:30-5, Sinks Canyon from 5-dusk/death, and Lander Bar post dusk/death.

Aug 2, 2009

It's All Jerks & Snatches


I'm proud to announce my new blog: It's All Jerks & Snatches.

I had a small epiphany and am perusing Olympic Weightlifting with increased vigor. Two of the best methods to commit to a course of action is competition, which I do as frequently as possible, and public declaration, one easy manifestation is a blog. In addition, Olympic Weightlifting, at best, has a small positive correlation with climbing performance and does not belong on a blog about increasing climbing performance.