Saturday Syke Video

It is time to double down on climbing volume and triple down on pull-ups.

Uncanny Valley

Training : 1) Campus, Doubles, Medium Rungs
1-3
1-4(f)

2) Campus, Ladder
Small Rungs, 1-3-5
Large Rungs, 1-4

3) Pull-ups
2 finger pockets, biggest, 3x1
1/2 crimp, medium, 5x5

There went Fall

Notes: First snowstorm of the Winter. Where did Fall go? I did this session after setting and forerunning problems for a local indoor competition. It wasn't too hard but destroyed my skin (new holds). I rarely train campus doubles (#1), there is a razor edge between effective and injury. #2 was stopped short on the account of poor skin. I rarely train pull-ups. Why not? #3 is building a base.

Fable Boulders, A Couple of Classics & Lots of Hard Projects

Even though it getting cooler, I still hate climbing in the sun. While I waited for the sun to drop below the ridge, I explored for more rock in The Fable Boulders. I found a couple of VOs which I did my approach shoes. They are okay and located about 1/4 mile upstream along the ridge from the main area.

Unnamed, V0, Black (follow crack)
Unnamed, V0, Red (follow arete)

I found more trash than climbable rock

I got down to business and put up a couple of classics. While not hard, these problems have quality rock and movement.

Follow Your Bliss, V1/2, Blue (Stand start on jug, follow the left arete via slopers)
Joy Will Burn Out The Pain, V3/4, Green (Stand start, lieback the right arete, exit via crimps)

I spent the remainder of the abbreviated session cleaning and sussing out problems on the Hero Boulder

1,000 Faces, Project(V5R), Pink (SDS crack, move left on directional holds)

If You Fear Dying Then You're Already Dead, Project (V8R), Black (SDS on L.H. sidepull & R.H. Crimp, powerful moves to jug, big moves to the top)
Monomyth, Project(Really Hard), Blue (Small holds and big moves)
Call To Adventure, Project(V4PG-13), Red (SDS, big moves between okay holds, awkward landing)

Telearchic Cross

Warm-up: 1) Repeat Problems, 30 minutes

Training: 1) 1/2 crimp, lowest edge, +5lbs, 5s X3

2) Open hand, big sloper, 1 hand with assistance, 5s X3

New Hangboard Set-up

Notes: I'm in a performance cycle, focusing on outdoor projects and an Olympic Weightlifting competition, but I couldn't resist trying out the new hangboard set-up at the gym. It is hung at the same angle as the system board. I have always thought the Metolius Simulator is too easy, hanging it at 30/35 degrees fixes that problem.

The Palace, Dry Fire on Rapid Fire

Routes Sent: Unknown, 10(?), Onsight (first route in The Palace, pile down low to okay warm-up)
Strictly Business, 10c, Onsight (cryptic and blocky)
Death & Disfigured, 11c, Redpoint (1st try today, 2 tries last winter, skipped bolt to send)

Routes Tried: Rapid Fire, 12c/d, 2 tries (BTB, 2 hang)

The rock of The Palace

Alex matches the rock nicely

Rapid Fire
My path is in black.

My clipping stances are noted with a "P"

X marks a no-hand's rest I take

Notes: @ and I rolled up for a quick afternoon session at The Palace. I like the Palace. It is not the best or most interesting rock, but it is close to my house. I surprised myself with sending Death & Disfigured on the first burn of the day. I'm glad I sacked up and skipped a hard clip to send. I still have residual fear of missing a clip (but not skipping clips).

I got on Rapid Fire only because it was close. It is very much my style, crimpy boulder problems separated by rests. You can tell by the photos I clip every bolt (expect the first one) but climb a lot of the nearby Monstrosity. I use a different sequence from most people during the first crux. My left hand is on the "right hand" holds and my right hand is on crimps/microjugs out right. I should be able to send it the next session. I'm withholding a comment about the grade until I send.

Scheduled Time Off

I'm "enjoying" my programmed 5 COMPLETE rest days, right in the middle of the prime season. My goal is to stay injury free. I'm making the appropriate sacrifices.

Meanwhile enjoy some training nuggets - link.

Power Hoisting

Training: 1) Ladder, Medium Rungs, 1-4-6
1-4-7(f)
1-3-6

(2) Ladder, Small Rungs, 1-4-5

(3) Doubles, Large Rungs, 1-4-7

rest 10 minutes

(4) Flash, problems, 20 minutes

(6) Press, 130, 3X5
rest 3 minutes between sets

2) 3 rounds
Corkscrew, 45, 10 reps
Hang open hand, lowest edge on Metolius Simulator*, 7-10s

* Metolius Simulator is hung on 35 degree wall. I'll explain in a future post.

Notes: Putting up FAs was the warm up for real climbing, i.e. campusing. Finally, the Babylonian Exile is over. The hangboard was moved, meaning I can campus without hitting my nuts. Time to get STRONG!! I still suck on pulling through, but my fingers feel strong.

Flashing was a mental challenge after the campusing took the most of the power juice. The rehab for my shoulder is almost done, #6. I finished the day with some abs and deadhangs.