Ah yes, the 1-arm start. Is it a party trick to impress the Tuesday night shirtless crowd or a fundamental stepping stone on the path to Cra...

(Click in box & Press space bar to play video) The "Technique, Intensity, & Volume" paradigm is fundamental to effective l...

It is a crisp fall morning, and I open my guidebook. The table of contents is a rendering of the Earth, similar to Google Earth . I spin the...

Take Highway 287 to Highway 14 West (Ted's Place), then travel 19.5 on Hwy 14 West. Park in a small pull-out on the right, below the ...

I'm a fan of optimal methods. The "paelo diet" (Will someone rebrand it already?) is an optimal baseline in my experience. It ...

Take Highway 287 to Highway 14 West (Ted's Place), then travel ~2 miles on Hwy 14 West. Park in the large parking lot on the left mar...

Where is the line between a better method of climbing and conducting a historical reenactment of the first ascent of a climb? How do you def...

Analysis I break my training intro macro-blocks (4-6 weeks), micro-blocks (1-2 weeks), and session-blocks (15-30 minutes). My macro-blocks a...

Preface This is the next installment in an ongoing series exploring training for climbing. Now that you have the rules , let’s make sure you...

Take Highway 287 to Highway 14 West (Ted's Place), then travel 12 miles on Hwy 14 West. Park in the large pull-out on the right marke...

Learn the rules so you know how to break them properly. Dalai Lama 1. Don’t Injure Yourself If you injured yourself, either acutely or chron...

Take Highway 287 to Highway 14 West (Ted's Place), then travel 6.3 miles on Hwy 14 West. Park in the large pull-out on the right. The ...

I've done some soul searching and have decided to temporarily close this window into my life. I'm still following my bliss, i.e., tr...

"I can pimp the hell out of myself" 

I have meet several pro climbers, including two that known for extreme self-promotion. They ...

Preface I've chosen not to publish reviews of climbing guidebooks or training guides (both of which I obsessively collect and anal...

Training: 1) Technique 2) Repeats Dan John on Athletic Qualities I chuckle inside everytime I hear about how good climbing is for upper body...

Starting at 15:45 is the section most relevant to the thoughts below If you view climbing as constrained by the physical world, then the con...

My Favorite Climb in Poudre Canyon, CO My Favorite Climb in Red Feather, CO My Favorite Video My Favorite Roadtrip "Warm Beer & Col...

Number of Climbs Published - 28+ ! Number of Boulder Problems Climbed - 160+ (There were ~20 problems on private property and areas I was a...

I make rules in life to make things simpler. (I break them to have more fun). One of my rules: I must create before I consume. (It tricks me...