1-Arm Starts, Party Trick or Party Starter

Ah yes, the 1-arm start. Is it a party trick to impress the Tuesday night shirtless crowd or a fundamental stepping stone on the path to Crankdom? Sometimes mandatory. Sometimes mandated. Always impressive. The following is my take on that dark art.

I break my training into three components - mental, technical, and physical. From a mental training perspective, 1-arm starts feel impossible until you do it (a micro-pattern for the macro-pattern of projects). You pull and pull and pull, then one time you float. I can stack little 1-arm start victories to build the mental fortitude for my big project victory, constantly setting new barriers and breaking them. From a technical training perspective, it forces me to move my body in new, productive ways. Each one is an unique puzzle to solve (again with the micro/macro pattern), building me into ATV climber. From a physical training perspective, it is the repetition method for 1-arm pull-ups. Following the Westside Barbell paradigm, you never use repetition method in the classical lifts (1-arm pull-ups), but rather with special exercises (1-arm starts). If you start every problem of an indoor session (~20 problems) with a 1-arm start, it will build strength, endurance, and work capacity to reach the next level for 1-arm pull-ups.

This is very interesting from a hyper-geeky training perspective. But will 1-arm starts help me to crush the outside gnar-gnar? It depends (possibly). In my experience, 1-arm starts have limited but vital transfer. You might never see a pure 1-arm start in the wild but often both hands of a start won't be prefect. I rather have the confidence from 1000 1-arm starts, then the shock of encountering it for the first time at a crux (I apply the same logic to monos). This effect is often times indirect, thus overlooked.

I suggest that it be folded into the training mix for the Advanced trainee, not to the exclusive of "bimanual" starts but just enough to impress the Tuesday nighters.

Technique, Intensity, & Volume

(Click in box & Press space bar to play video)

The "Technique, Intensity, & Volume" paradigm is fundamental to effective long-term improvement in climbing. Most climbers start chasing intensity and never stop. As a result most climbers do not improve past the novice stage (i.e., getting better by just doing a sport). Chasing intensity over technique creates a big engine that goes nowhere because the tires do not have traction. Primarily chasing intensity results in short, finite gains. Emphasizing technique is a slower and longer road but leads to higher peaks. Intensity is seductive in climbing because ease of measurement. Every climb has a grade, a reasonable proxy for intensity. Technique is more subtle. Just because something is less measurable does not lower its value. Do not ignore intensity, just put intensity in its proper place. Frequently as people progress from novice to advance climbers, they start chasing volume. You see this in 3+ hour sessions 4+ days a week. They are just ingraining their poor climbing movement. I consider volume the icing on the training cake. I only increase volume after my technique and intensity have started to plateau for the current cycle.

The "Technique, Intensity, & Volume" paradigm is often thwarted by climbing gyms. Indoor gyms put a premium on intensity. There is often a culture that rewards people for sending without regard for technique. It doesn't help the hardest climbs in gyms often do not require the best technique. They are usually "paste & jump" (repeat). Additionally, all climbers, including indoor setters, have a limited technique vocabulary. Indoor climbs are limited to the particular setter's vernacular. Indoor climbs do not encourage a variety of solutions. Routsetting "success" is often arbitrarily defined as forcing a move. Typical gyms, by their very nature, have many problems. Frequently it is too many for training purposes. Instead of creating an environment where you are encouraged to learn what problems can teach you, you can always find another problem that suits your own meager technique vocabulary. Rarely, do you see climbers taking time to expand or rebuild their technique on easier climbs. I see the average gym climbers as a small dog trying to jump over a high brick wall. No matter much or how hard it jumps, it just cannot get over the wall. The problem is not effort but tactics. It is standing too close! It could easy jump over the wall, if it took a couple of steps back to gain the necessary momentum.

I challenge you to try the "Technique, Intensity, & Volume" paradigm for one training cycle. It just might help you jump over your brick wall.

October 2, 2020

It is a crisp fall morning, and I open my guidebook. The table of contents is a rendering of the Earth, similar to Google Earth. I spin the model and zoom in to the crag I wish to climb at today. It syncs with several weather websites and suggests the best time to climb is mid-afternoon. I see the street crag view with the climbs superimposed on color photos of the rock. Since guidebook space is unlimited, all variations (with grades) are shown. Today I feel like reenacting an old John Gill circuit. I first sort by stars and style. Then by grade and a couple of other personal preferences I have set. Meanwhile, another part of the guidebook web-crawls for all old guidebooks (that have been digitized), blog posts, and videos that relate to today’s climbing. Just in case I want a little more beta. I create a glossy, bound, individualized guidebook for today’s adventure with my personal print-on-depend printer

However, when I get to the crag I change my mind. I am not in the mood for the circuit. I press the Concierge button. My electronic Sherpa remembers I like to onsight 10a off-widths and suggests several that are nearby. Since the guidebook is synced via GPS with my phone, it suggests the most efficient path from where I am to the base of the climbs.

I update the guidebook after I'm done climbing, it is a wiki after all. I add my interpretation of the rock, via text and video with suggestions for grades. It recalculates the mean, median, and mode grade for each climb with standard error. That information is instantly synced in everyone’s guidebook. I have no evidence that a couple of the climbs have been done before so I suggest they might be new. The guidebooks notes this. It highlights those climbs as unconfirmed and sends an alert to other people who are interested in second ascents in that area. I decide to end the day with the best local Mexican food. The guidebook dials the number so I can confirm they are still open. I close the guidebook and continue into a brilliant fall night.

Update - The physical manifestation of this post. 04/29/11

Guide to "Upper Narrows" of Poudre Canyon, CO

Take Highway 287 to Highway 14 West (Ted's Place), then travel 19.5 on Hwy 14 West. Park in a small pull-out on the right, below the "East of Eden" climb. The cave pictured below is located directly across the river. The approach time is less than 1 minute and includes a river crossing.

#1, (V4/5) Stand sitting incut horn and climb overhanging arete. Exit via a lichen, chossy groove. Video Evidence

#2, (V-weird/fun) Start sitting on opposing slopers, make your way through the roof notch via a variety of techniques.Video Evidence

#3, (V?) Rumored to be V14/15 and all the moves have been done.

#4, (V?) Traverse out of corner. Arbitrary start with poor rock quality.

The Official Climbing Lab Shake

I'm a fan of optimal methods. The "paelo diet" (Will someone rebrand it already?) is an optimal baseline in my experience. It maximizes how I look, feel, and perform with minimal inputs (I'm lazy). I focus on high quality, low processed foods. I don't sweat the details and don't care for historical reenactments (That encompasses my philosophy towards life and climbing, too). I won't be stalking albino raccoons through the wilds of Isla Vista or enjoying a tall cold glass of Cambodian breast milk. I mainly eat steak and yam.

Paleo is just a baseline. I tweak from there and track changes. I supplement smartly and enjoy a good Gin & Tonic. In addition to my laziness baseline, I'm busy. Therefore it is time for the world debut of the "Official Climbing Lab Shake." It is simple, tastes good, and gets the protein, healthy fats, and carbs in my belly.


Ingredients:
1/2 can of coconut milk
Handful of blueberries
1 teaspoon of cod liver oil
2 scoops of protein powder
3 ice cubes
Raw milk
(Optional: Gin & Tonic)

Steps (Really?):
1. Put them in Blender
2. Press the button
3. Enjoy!

Guide to "Picnic Rock" of Poudre Canyon, CO

Take Highway 287 to Highway 14 West (Ted's Place), then travel ~2 miles on Hwy 14 West. Park in the large parking lot on the left marked with "Picnic Rock" sign. The boulder pictured below is located .5 mile downstream. The approach time is ~10 minutes and includes a river crossing. The rock is partly in the river. Plan according.

GPS Coordinates:
N 40 40.127
W 105 13.644

The river polished "wave" feature

#1, (V1/2) Start standing with quality slopers to technical top-out.
(V3/4) Start sitting with a low right-hand side-pull and a high left-hand crimp, move to small crimp then hidden jug to join stand version.Video Evidence

#2, (V2/3) Start standing on flat jugs to incut jug top-out.
(V3/4) Start sitting in horizontal crack join stand version. Video Evidence

#3, (V0/1) Start standing. Climb lichen and chossy dihedral. An unappealing warm-up.

#4, (V3/4) Start standing with small starting holds, move to slopers, and exit via jugs. Video Evidence

#5, (V1/2) Start standing. Grab side-pull, move to lip, and mantle. Video Evidence

#6, (V1/2) Start standing. Grab lip and mantle. Video Evidence

Roadtrip Questions

Where is the line between a better method of climbing and conducting a historical reenactment of the first ascent of a climb?

How do you define a climb?

How do you define a successful climb?

Who defines your successful climb?

Do names refer to the rock, a path on the rock, or a specific person's path on the rock?

What happens if I create my own interpretation of the rock?

Should I use the same name as previous ascensionists?

What happens if I start higher?

What happens if I start lower?

What happens if I create my own finish?

What happens if I choose my own path between the start and finish?

What happens if I place a hand on a hold the first ascensionist didn't touch?

What happens if I place a foot on a hold the first ascensionist didn't use?

What happens if I use the holds in a different order than the first ascensionist?

What happens if my body is in a different physical space than first ascensionist?

What happens if my mind is in a different psychological space than first ascensionist?

What is the difference between claiming an ascent among friends, on the web, or posting a video?

Who do I need to sign my metaphorical climbing scorecard?

Sample Training Session With Analysis, Part II

Analysis

I break my training intro macro-blocks (4-6 weeks), micro-blocks (1-2 weeks), and session-blocks (15-30 minutes). My macro-blocks are related to the season. Right now, it is end of winter on the Front Range. That means I can climb outside but not often (and not consistently). Micro-blocks are dependent on weather and other life responsibilities. A workout session is made of several session-blocks. The sample workout has 4 30-minute session-blocks (#1, #2, #4, & #5) and 2 15-minute session-blocks( #3 & #6).

The stated objectives are related to the goals of the current macro-block. Right now, I’m only intrigued by bouldering and short routes. Those are contingent on maximal finger strength. At the same time, I don’t want to waste my strength. Therefore, I want to increase my technique. I’m not chasing the rabbit of stamina. That is for next macro-block. You can only chase so many rabbits. I found that strength and technique are the Gin & Tonic of climbing training, aka always classic. Following the basic physiology, you get stronger by resting from the proper dose , both inter-set and inter-session (stolen from Mark Rippetoe). During that inherit strength-building rest period, I analysis my technique via both video and introspection. Some climbing coaches train technique in power endurance or endurance sessions. Everyone’s technique degrades when pumped. So either you reinforce poor technique or don't properly train power endurance, chasing two rabbits running in different directions. Endurance session promotes mindless, junk mileage. Any climbing worth doing is deserves my attention and should be hard. Another constraint on choosing macro-block objectives is an acute knee injury I suffered falling on a jump move. It is healing, and I’m assisting the process via rest, ice, specific strengthening, and targeted mobility. Currently, it limits the number of climbing moves I can do in a day. Perfect excuse to focus on intensity over volume.

I like having themes. A theme is a thought intention I set which guides my training. The best ones I have found for me are: silent feet, glue feet, smooth, fast, straight arms, and belly breathing. I aspire to climb every problem in the theme. It doesn’t always happen. I have found that merely setting an intention puts my feet on the right path. Thumbless climbing is a perfect theme for me. Thumbless prevents two handgrip types: pinching and full crimping. Indoor climbing is pinchcentric which does not translate directly to outside climbing. Personally, I default to full crimping. That is a unsustainable habit. Thumbless tricks me into becoming a better outside climber. It serves has functional theme for especially within threshold bouldering. If a threshold problem is too hard, I can a thumb (or two).

I don't warm-up. I train technique for 30 minutes. I use "The Clock" throughout my training. It tricks me into proper behavior. Like fish oil, I don't like training technique, but know it is good for me. I set the timer for 30 minutes. During that 30 minutes, I'm only process-oriented and on restriction from climbing harder than 40% of my max. During this session, I repeated each problem in my home warm-up circuit 3 times in row. I strive to make each lap smoother, faster, and more efficient.

During threshold bouldering, I set new personal climbing records. I was trying to repeat problems in thumbless style during this session-block. I had previously climbed these problems using the optimal handgrip type. I have practical guidelines, kinder gentler rules, for threshold bouldering. My guidelines support my training mantra - “It doesn’t matter if I succeed, it matters what I learned.” I aim to have 4 successes out of 6 attempts. If I fail 3x on a move without improvement, I move onto a different move. Otherwise, I’m training to fail. I use "The Clock" during threshold bouldering to force rest. Here are my rest guidelines:

1-3 moves = rest 1 minute
3-6 moves = rest 2 minutes
6-10 moves = rest 3 minutes
10+ moves = you are not training for bouldering

I select movement and holds that directly transfer to my outside climbing limiters. I choose to do this mini-session at my homewall which is designed around Front Range climbing, i.e., crimpy and technical. Location affects my reality. I love my home wall. I've created a “DO WORK” vibe. I see inspiring quotes and posters. I play LOUD music. Lately, it has been Middle Class Rut, but Dr. Dre is always classic. I have all the appropriate torture/training devices. I pick holds and angles that mimic, but not replicate, local climbing. S.A.I.D. baby. I set simulators for projects. I rarely change holds so I have objective benchmark for each training cycle. I complete control of the environment. I love the commercial gym I have a membership to. There is a “Have Fun” vibe. There is pleasant music muzak. There is a wide selection of training toys. I climb on holds with movement that I would NEVER see outside. There is outstanding breath of problems that are constantly changing. Most importantly, I climb on other people’s problems. It forces me to adapt to an environment that I have no control over.

After the extended warm-up of technique and hard bouldering, I move to hangboarding. Campusing is sexier and very satisfying. But strength is the basis of power. Hangboard is simply the most optimal tool for improving climbing strength. The barbell squat improves EVERY activity that requires moving your legs. Similarly, the hangboard improves EVERY activity that requires hanging from fingers. It is simple, measurable, progressive, and repeatable. Hangboarding is so important it deserves its own post (in the hopper). This hangboarding session-block is based on addressing my personal limiters, open hand, in a progressive manner (i.e., I add weight every session).

I love flashing problems outside (performance) so I practice that inside (training). Flash climbing requires the alignment of both physical and mental properties that I seek out in climbing. Commercial gyms are the best venue for flash training.

Block #5 is the last climbing specific block. It echos the first Technique block. I repeat each problem 3 times striving for improvement on each lap. There is no difficulty restriction, but the goal is complete 3 laps on different 4 problems. It is built-in perfect practice and aims to maintain my stamina (i.e., the number of problems I complete in a day).

I finish the day with “Prehab & Core.” I superset (i.e., alternative the two activities without rest) to save time. Many people with much more knowledge about climbing training than me have stated that external rotation needs to be trained. It is important so I do it "everyday." Additionally, I train vertical and horizontal push. The details aren’t important. It important that I do it. My primary core excise is Torture Twist. I rotate core work when I plateau.

One last comment on “The Clock”. The total training time is a little over 2 hours, broken into two mini-sessions at 1 hour each. Two mini-sessions fit better with my lifestyle, since I work a full-time job and have other engaging hobbies. Additionally, I find better transfer to outside climbing from 2 high intensity mini-sessions vs. 1 marathon session.

What is omitted is often more important than what is included. In my current workout programming, it is rigorous free weights and pull-ups Both have a place in specific people’s training, typically older or female climbers who lack raw horsepower. I, like 99.999% climbers, need to climb more. Everything else takes away from climbing, either in an one-to-one time exchange from today’s session or stealing from future sessions via accumulated fatigue. Additionally, I have yet to see a climber whose biggest limiter his or her basic strength. If it not not your biggest limiter, your limited time is better spent elsewhere.

Conclusion

This post is a snapshot into how I approach training for climbing and reflects the best I have found to date. I pay attention to the details. I tweak. I steal from people who produce better results. My workout will be different the next day, next week, next year, and next decade. Every workout is different, but the logic is the same. However, my workout will not be different for the sake of different. It will be different for the sake of better. I ask myself will X [insert any program or exercise] transfer to better performance outside. Unlike other fitness enthusiasts and programs, I don’t train to impress people in the gym.

Sample Training Session With Analysis, Part I

Preface

This is the next installment in an ongoing series exploring training for climbing. Now that you have the rules, let’s make sure you are a law-biding citizen in you daily life, i.e., the training session. The work done during the training session is the walking of the path to your goal. There is plethora of sample training sessions on the internet or in books. However, most of them lack data and logic. I define the relevant data as the results derived from adhering to the training. I define logic as the coherent rational or mechanism that connects the method to the data. I, too, am a scientific sinner and will only allude to data. I have consistently improved over my climbing career. However, it is hard to quantify that improvement because of the qualitatively different venues I have expressed my "climbing as art." I have followed my bliss in climbing from indoor to alpine to traditional to sport to bouldering to developing. The only constant has been outdoor bouldering. That will be my benchmark. I have improved (but only modestly) every year for the last 5 years. I have increased by redpoint bouldering level by one V grade per year, from V5 to V10. I have enjoyed that run, but no trend is linear forever. I don’t (and shouldn’t) expect to climb V15 in 5 years. However, that modest improvement is better than many climbers who do don’t measurably improve after using up the novice effect. What I lack in actual data, I hopefully will make up in logic and reason. It is common to supply workouts without logic. It is the evaluate of dealing drugs without telling the addict the wholesaler’s phone number. This post will provide a sample training session with supporting logic.

Any logical treatise has givens. I have already alluded to one given - You want to improve at climbing. If don’t want to improve in climbing, then stop reading. Your time would be better spent at an internet Crank Bank. If you want to improve (at anything), model someone that is successful. If you think I’m successful, then model me. If not, model someone else. Another given - You have to train to improve. At some point, just climbing (or just performance) will yield diminishing returns. From my observations, that happens ~5 the year mark. You can “just climb” for 5 years and see beautiful linear improvements. After that most people will have to train to continue to see linear improvements. One way to view training is separating outcome from process. In training, I’m process-oriented. In performance, I’m outcome-oriented. All climbers (including me) perform too much. I made this rule to simply my life - In the gym, I’m training. Outside, I’m performing. Other people play by different rules. Ask yourself, “Are the rules you choose to follow moving you closer to your goals”?

Sample Training Session

Date: 02/17/11

Objective: Increase maximal finger strength
Increase technique
Maintain stamina

Theme: Thumbless

Blocks: 1) Technique

2) Threshold

3) Hang

rest 3 hours

4) Flash

5) Technique

6) Prehab & Core

Location: Home gym - #1, #2, #3
Commercial gym - #4, #5, #6

Part II (The Analysis) will be posted tomorrow.

Guide to "Ouzel" of Poudre Canyon, CO

Take Highway 287 to Highway 14 West (Ted's Place), then travel 12 miles on Hwy 14 West. Park in the large pull-out on the right marked with "Ouzel" sign. The boulder pictured below is located IN the river, ~200ft upstream. The approach time is less than 5 minutes.

GPS Coordinates:
N 40 34.339
W 105 03.078

#1, (VB/V0) Start standing and climb low angle arete. There might be holds under the lichen. video evidence
#2, (V0/V1) Start standing and climb dirty face with actual holds. video evidence
#3, (V1/V2) Start standing on rock in river and follow path of least resistance up and to the right. video evidence
#4, (V2/V3) Start sitting down and ascend using rounded but positive holds. Awkward climbing. video evidence

The Climbing Lab’s Training Rules

Learn the rules so you know how to break them properly.

Dalai Lama

1. Don’t Injure Yourself

If you injured yourself, either acutely or chronically, you can’t train effectively or efficiently. The easiest way is stop doing stupid stuff. You don’t have to try every arbitrary move in the gym. That double gaston move might be a routesetter's wet dream but it is your shoulder’s nightmare. Most importantly - DON'T DO INDOOR DYNOS! No matter how rad they are or how sexy the climbing nugget is. Don’t campus when tired, either at the end of a hard day or a hard cycle. Drink some water. Stretch a little (but not too much). Occasionally do a push exercise. Get a spotter. Get a good spotter. Throw a rope down that highball. Some people might not sign your scorecard (Who cares?). Make sure you are playing by your own rules not someone else’s rules.

3. Have A Climbing Goal

A goal focuses and compels training. Have something you are striving for. People frequently pick a grade goal. That is dumbing down climbing. Climbing can be much more than that. Pick a goal that makes you grow as a climber and a person. How about an experience goal? My favorite goal is travel to a new climbing area and attempt all the 5 star climbs. It means have to get better and very specifically better. If I’m going to Hueco, I throw more crimp and roofs into the training mix. If I’m going to Indian Creek, I run laps on greasy indoor splitters and try not to get MRSA (not linking that one). S.M.A.R.T. is a good starting point.

4. Create Your Own Benchmarks
Benchmarks are signposts on the path of progress towards your goal. 1-arm pull-ups are rad. But is that really your benchmark? Running a 5k in 16 minutes is rad. But is that really your benchmark? An arbitrary wieghtroom movement at an arbitrary weight could be rad. But is that really your benchmark? Grades are finicky but better than the above stuff. Test-piece climbs, preferable outside, make for great benchmarks.

5. Always Progress
Are you better, the same, or worse that yesterday, last week, or last year? Are you closer or father from your goal? If the answer is better and closer, than what you are doing is working. Keep doing what you're doing or as the kids say today, "KFTC." If the answer is not better, stop KFTC. You can't improve all things all the time, unless you are a rank novice, but something should be improving. Good things to be improving are technique and strength.

6. Improve Technique
Technique is the successful application of strength. Technique is the magically pixie dust that instantly makes you a better climber. It is free money on the table. Take it. Get a Flip Camera, video tape your training, and examine your faults frame-by-frame (if you are sadistic bastard like me). A wise man said, "If it is important, do it everyday." I don't warm-up anymore. I work "technique" for 30-45 minute at the beginning of every session.

7. Improve Strength
Strength is the successful application of technique. Strength is like salt. It makes everything better. Always remember, it is hard to acquire unless you focus on it. Additionally, strength is specific. What does that mean for climbing? Your fingers are primary. Everything else is a distant second. Dust off the hangboard today.

Guide to Mile 6.3 of Poudre Canyon, CO

Take Highway 287 to Highway 14 West (Ted's Place), then travel 6.3 miles on Hwy 14 West. Park in the large pull-out on the right. The boulder pictured below is located on the opposite bank, ~100ft upstream. The approach time is less than 1 minute but includes a river crossing.

GPS Coordinates:
N 40 41.579
W 105 15.610

1. (V4/5) Start sitting on the ground and follow steep arete. video evidence
2. (V5/6) Start sitting on the rock in the cave and traverse right to join #1. video evidence
3. (V9/10) Start sitting on the ground in the cave and join #2. video evidence

Update: I was fortune to witness another ascent of #3. That ascensionist suggested V8/9 if a "cheater" sweater is used for the first move (^_~).

Git Er Dun (offline)

I've done some soul searching and have decided to temporarily close this window into my life. I'm still following my bliss, i.e., training, climbing, and bolting. Just more privately for a little while.

I have big plans in the works.
Lichen beware!!!

The War of Art by Steven Pressfield, A Review - Part II

"I can pimp the hell out of myself"



I have meet several pro climbers, including two that known for extreme self-promotion. They are great people, despite their flamboyant personae. They have helped the sport in observable and measurable ways. They separate "pimping" from work/art. They get their work/art done. They love climbing but know it is their job.

“So the Muse whispered in Beethoven’s ear. Maybe she hummed a few bars into a million other ears. But no one else hear her. Only Beethoven got it.”

All the climbs in the world already exist. Yes, I just declared that. However, they need a corporeal being, a human body with a will, to manifest them. The muses whisper in everyone's ears. The muse’s interested in creating new climbs are shouting my ears!

“The amateur plays part-time, the professional full time. … Resistance hates it when we turn pro”

Lately, I've turned pro. What is my profession? Hunting unshared climbs and sharing them. I choose not to do activities that will directly interfere with that, i.e., lift weights (which I love) or train for climbing (which I love even more). It would be easy to hide in those activities. Seeking out unshared lines and sharing them is work.

I go to work everyday. I charge my camera, put on my waders, and grab my brush. I seek out blank canvases. Sometimes they are too featured. Sometimes they are too blank. But everyday I go to work looking for the perfect line for that day.

My "work" gets in the way of my play. Recently, I went a roadtrip for fun and put myself on restriction. I was prohibited from trying unshared climbs. I saw them at every single climbing venue, even in the major areas of Bishop. All independent and quality lines wanting for the world.

“Are these angels? Are they muses? … If we forget something, they remind us. If we veer off-course, they trim the tabs and steer us back”

I have slow realized the following fact, but Steven elucidated for me - I need to get out of my own way. I have playing the game of naming climbs and claiming first ascents. Sometimes, I'm right. Oftentimes, I'm wrong. That part is not my work. My work is discovering and sharing. Let the critics and historians do the rest.

Conclusion


This book should be required reading for all artists, business owners, knowledge workers, student finishing dissertation, and everyone striving to be a complete human being.
Simply - If you are an artist*, you have to read this book.

I frequently do/act/create without a complete conscious, or verbalizable, understanding. Later, I find a writer that is better able to communicate the way I feel. I found that in this book. For the record, I'm as guilty of losing to The Resistance as anyone else. I occasionally win. In the future, I hope to win more often thanks to The War of Art.

Bonus: Follow the evolution of the ideas at Steve Pressfield's Writing Wednesday blog.

* Even if your art project is creating your life

The War of Art by Steven Pressfield, A Review - Part I

Preface

I've chosen not to publish reviews of climbing guidebooks or training guides (both of which I obsessively collect and analyze). I have started many reviews and discarded all of them. Why? I want to push climbing forward. Guidebooks mostly record the past; the occasional expectation is when they list projects. Training guides frequently are just rehashing of old material or material that is functionally obsolete, e.g., glycemic index. I want to push climbing forward. I have unique contributions to make to climbing/life, the same as everyone if they spoke up. One of my "superpowers" is that I see connections between things that most people don't see or (even worse) won't say. Overall, I'm interested in incorporating modern thought into climbing, e.g., my review of Linchpin by Seth Godin.


The Review

I'm a voracious reader. When I'm in a reading mood, I can read 400 pages straight. The War of Art is not that long or complex. It is very deep. Once I started, I couldn't stop. I paused briefly to create art, i.e., this post. I was initially tipped off to this book by Seth Godin's blog.

The book has three sections – defining the enemy, combating the enemy, and moving beyond the enemy. In this case, the enemy is The Resistance. The Resistance is the internal stopping force of creating something new and meaningful, aka the shadow of T. S. Eliot.

The book is universe. However, this review will be specific. I will take representative book quotes and relate them to the current state of climbing.

"It was easier for Hitler to start World War II than it was for him to face a blank square of canvas."

I see most climbers as miniature Hitlers. They spending more time destroying, most frequently through criticism, than creating. I have made a conscious choice to create. Now I can't imagine going a week without creating something new, most frequently it is a climb*. Some climbers go their whole lives without creating a new climb. That something I can't understand. Some would attribute it too laziness. I see it as The Resistance.

I have been in (and out) of the indoor routesetting game for 6 years. I have never had "setter's block". There are simply too many holds and the human body has too much potential to run out of ideas. I see routesetters get stuck on a blank canvas. Just put a hold on the wall, even a bad hold. Better yet use the most illogical hold in the most illogical position. The same for working a project. Try a bad idea. Then try an even worse idea. Then at least you know what doesn't work (at least for right now).

"Fundamentalism and art are mutually exclusive"

Almost all fundamentalist climbers do not create art. They are too busy policing other's actions, making sure no one breaks their rules. Even the fundamentalist climbers who create art, would create more if they used that energy as gist for the creative mill.

Pressfield discusses how fundamentalists look to purer world from which we have fallen. There are too many references to various "golden eras" of climbing to even mention. Instead, think of this moment as a "golden era" and try to maximize it.

I see neotraditional climbing as a mild form of fundamentalism. Especially people who choose to remove bolts. The bolts don't interfere with your art, i.e., climbing & placing gear. Let everyone have his or her art.

"The athlete as to play hurt"

I want to suffer. I want to do things that are both physically and mentally hard. Lifting weights is hard. Getting a PhD is hard. Developing new climbing is both. That is why I seek it out.

To be continued ...

* DISCLAIMER: I sometimes rediscover a lost classic due to incomplete information. It is creating a new climb from my perspective. If people waited for complete information very little would ever happen.

Mechanical Turk

Training: 1) Technique

2) Repeats

Dan John on Athletic Qualities
I chuckle inside everytime I hear about how good climbing is for upper body development. I laugh outloud everytime I see a climber do a pull-up. If you can do 3 pull-ups, you've paid the strength entrance fee for 5.12.
Time to work on technique.

Notes:
#1 Continuous climbing. Trading an explicit monkey brain for an implicit monkey mind #2 Over-speeded climbing. Building on #1. Sloppy but makes normal climb feel like Matrix time. 1 minute rests between problems. Everything was going well until I rushed a jump move. I spun and hurt my weak knee. Stupid indoor jump moves. I need to train for my game, not the routesetter's game. A little vitamin I, ice, and zombie western comedy will fix me up.

Saturday Syke Video

Starting at 15:45 is the section most relevant to the thoughts below

If you view climbing as constrained by the physical world, then the concept of scarcity could apply. There is a limited about of rock. As more people climb, there is less climbing for everyone. That viewpoint creates incentives for secret areas. The convention of "Ownership" can also apply. A first ascensionist "owns" the climb. Subsequent ascensionists can violate "the rules."

However if you view view climbing as an idea, it is not constrained by the physical world. Thus the concept of scarcity is not necessarily applicable. In fact as more people climb and share, more climbing exists in the world for everyone to enjoy. An "Open Science" view of climbing creates incentives for the sharing of information. It is less important who climbs what first. It is more important the information is available. There are less "rules" to violate, merely paradigms to adhere to (or not).

Which worldview are you living in?

Which worldview would you rather live in?

Annual Review - Qualitative Analysis

My Favorite Climb in Poudre Canyon, CO

My Favorite Climb in Red Feather, CO

My Favorite Video

My Favorite Roadtrip

"Warm Beer & Cold Nuts"

Taos-Prescott-Las Vegas-San Diego-Las Vegas-Barstow-Las Vegas-Truckee

My 2nd Most Favorite Roadtrip

"Green Chili & Pockets"

New Mexico(Various)-Las Vegas-Truckee-Santa Maria

Physical Manifestation of The Climbing Lab
1st Stage Completed - Photo Evidence

Most Important Thing I've Learned

I choose creating, over criticizing, copying, or destroying.

Annual Review - Quantitative Analysis

Number of Climbs Published - 28+!

Number of Boulder Problems Climbed - 160+
(There were ~20 problems on private property and areas I was asked to keep "secret")

Number of Routes Climbed - 49

Hardest Boulder Problem Sent - V10 (Unconfirmed)

Hardest Route Sent - 12a

Hardest Boulder Flashed - V7

Hardest Route Flashed - 12a

Average Boulder Problem Sent in a Day - V8

Average Route Sent in a Day - 12a

Number of Outside Climbing Days - 100+

Number of States Climbed In - 7

Number of Different Climbing Areas - 24

(The number I'm most proud of)

"You don't have to live your life the way other people expect you to."

I make rules in life to make things simpler.
(I break them to have more fun).

One of my rules: I must create before I consume.
(It tricks me into putting up new climbs, writing blog posts, and making videos.)

After you have created something/anything today,
read this - a brief guide to world domination

It elucidates my take on climbing/life better than I ever could.