Showing posts with label video evidence. Show all posts
Showing posts with label video evidence. Show all posts

Sep 8, 2011

Video: "Free But Not Cheap" Poudre Canyon, CO



"Free But Not Cheap"
11a/b
No Stars

The Approach: PMA crag is listed in the Poudre Canyon Guidebook and on Mountain Project. It is the second set of bolts from the left.

The Story: The name is an inside (of my head) joke. The route is fun and overhanging, aka your feet get freedom, but there is a crux to pay, not cheap for the grade. Horrible junk rock, so bad that I "cleaned" with a soft bristle brush a jug into the wall when I bolted it (Baby Jesus please forgive me). It is the second warm-up of PMA crag, preparing you for the harder routes and makes their marginally better rock seem very solid.

There are two separate, but equal, methods to solve the crux at the 3rd bolt. A static method involving a sharp, thin pinch and the much more fun dynamic method demonstrated in the video. For full value, mantle the top of the cliff

Footnote: I repeated it on my birthday. However, I couldn't send my adjacent project. No cake for me!

Jul 7, 2011

Video: Unknown Climb at Zorro Sector of Wild Iris, WY



I couldn't find this climb in the 2011 Guidebook. It is quintessential bouldering on a rope. My best guess for the grade is 11c. The crux revolves around a long pull off a good mono (Brilliant!). Bring a brush! It is dirty but should clean up to be a nice addition to the area. Share your knowledge.

Enjoy!

Jan 16, 2011

Back in My Hole

Day 5 on my project.



The ending broke, previously seen here, resulting in a significantly easier climb. I'm suggesting V5. I climbed it from the more logical sit down, starting on the rock immediately behind.

The sit down start (from the ground) was wet, dripping wet.
I can't complain, since I'm climbing outside in January with my shirt off!!

Jan 11, 2011

2 Problems from Groom Creek

Sitting in the cold & snow, dreaming of heading Southbound ...

Dec 17, 2010

Winter Project #278


My Favorite Arete in Poudre Canyon, CO


I'm working on an alternative sit start.

Perfect Excuse To Train!

Dec 3, 2010