Mechanical Turk

Training: 1) Technique

2) Repeats

Dan John on Athletic Qualities
I chuckle inside everytime I hear about how good climbing is for upper body development. I laugh outloud everytime I see a climber do a pull-up. If you can do 3 pull-ups, you've paid the strength entrance fee for 5.12.
Time to work on technique.

Notes:
#1 Continuous climbing. Trading an explicit monkey brain for an implicit monkey mind #2 Over-speeded climbing. Building on #1. Sloppy but makes normal climb feel like Matrix time. 1 minute rests between problems. Everything was going well until I rushed a jump move. I spun and hurt my weak knee. Stupid indoor jump moves. I need to train for my game, not the routesetter's game. A little vitamin I, ice, and zombie western comedy will fix me up.

Ferret Leggings

Training: 1) Threshold Bouldering

2) Hangboard

rest 2 hours

3) Technique

4) Repeats

5 ) Technique

6) TGU

7) Press

8) Core & Prehab



Notes: Start of the official winter training session for me.

#1 Back to my home wall. I set it up specifically for threshold work. I'm better (possibly stronger) than last home wall session. #2 Surpassed my old benchmarks. Success! #3 Foot Hoover. I tend to climb ladder-like when I foot hoover. I worked on other movement patterns. #4 Did doubles. Flashed all the new problems. Was able to dramatically improve on 2nd lap. Playing with movement. Got hard real quick. #5 Foot Hoover with no hands. I have a project in that style. Freaking hard/rad. #6 Worked up to 35lbs. Perfect movement. #8 3X5, 125 Maintenance work. #9 Standing crunches, 3X10, 180lbs

Lecturing Birds On How to Fly

Performance: 1) "Unkown", aka Random Arete, V5

2) Alternative stand start into #1, V7

3) Work sds to #2

4) "Better Luck in the Next Life", V8/9

Training: 1) Technique, 2 blocks

Notes: My last Front Range outside day for a little while. Simply Beautiful. #3 should be a V10. I keep breaking holds, evidence of a potential FA.

#1 1st block - Foot hover/Quiet Feet. That is the best technique drill I know. It directly translates to me sending. In addition, I enjoy climbing more with quiet feet. 2nd block. - Relax/Recover. I can get by climbing hardish routes with my ability to recover on route since very few Front Range routes are continuous. There is limited transference training continuous power endurance. I'm developing my ability to microrest on every hold.

Solastalgia

Performance: 1) Too busy climbing ..., V0/2 (Stand/Sit)

2) Zombie Land, V5/6

3) I can't fight your war ... , V7

Training: 1) Yoga, 2 blocks

2) Technique

3) Campus

4) Random Repeats

The "hourglass" shape in the rock were the original holds

Sometimes Destruction comes before Creation

Notes: Great day at Red Feather! Knocked down some reasonable projects. Lots of unreasonable projects left.

#1 2nd Yoga session of this cycle, getting more in the groove. Yes, I even periodize my yoga. #2 I was not in the mood for technique but did it anyways. Typically, I use time prioritized training for technique, e.g. 10 minutes focusing on crossing moves. Today I borrowed a page from CrossFit and used task prioritized training. I did 100 cross moves. ~50% were easy, ~40% were hard, and ~10% were project level. (Not for time because that would be silly and counterproductive for skill work) #3 2nd Campus session of this cycle, getting more in the groove. I always forget how skill based campusing is. Still Big Run microcycle. I worked up to 1-2-6. Failed on 1-3-7. #4 Today was a Medium Day so the repeats were easier.

Growing Tall vs. Growing Up

Training: 1) Technique

2) Technique

3) Campus/Mobility

4) Techniq

Scott Hagnas on Hip Mobility
(Sorry I'm having trouble embedding .mov)

Notes: My legs are still not recovered from the competition. Using open handholds in routesetting encourages using large footholds, heel-hooks in particular. Since I'm weak on open handholds, my legs took a beating.

#1 Climbed outside at Horsetooth Reservoir. That place is classic but not good. Mostly got on slabs (no handed). It was nice being outside. #2 Climbed the easier problems from the competition. Repeated each one until perfect #3 The plan is to hammer power (along with technique) this cycle. Experimenting with using pendulum wave loading, ala Westside. This week was Big Rungs & Big Moves. Next week will be Big Rungs & Big Pull-Throughs. The following week will be Big Rungs & Big Moves/Pull-Throughs. Then the same progression will start over with Medium Rungs. Here are My Campus Logs if you're curious. #4 Climbed Open level problems with any feet. Noticing how my intuitive technique is the same or different from the forced sequence. Did several Open Problems with different sequences. Exploring movement possibilities.

Please Do Not Name This Workout

Training: 1) Yoga

2) Technique

Notes: Start of a new cycle. Mixing in "Light Days."

#1 I use Robb Wolf's simple test - "Does X make you look, feel, and perform better?" In the case of yoga, climbing, and me, the answer is YES. Good enough. #2 Any feet climbing on the easier problems from the competition. Any feet allows me to use the best technique I have, instead of the best technique the routesetter has.

Underperforming Asphalt

Training: 1) Technique

2) 3x repeats

3) Systemboard/hangboard

4) Technique

Jump to 4:45

Re-adapting to plastic pulling

Notes: Today was a perfect day to climb/be outside. I choose to climb/be in the gym. Last day of training before comp. It was a "medium" day. I've adapted to training for climbing at the Intermediate level (at a minimum), moving away from the Novice level. I can't train maximally all the time (which kinda sux).

I dropped the intensity (by a little) and volume (by a lot). Intensity is harder to measure in climbing, but not impossible. I rank order all the problems in the gym (I can do). I chunk them into 10 groups. I only climbed problems in the easiest 8 chunks (~80% intensity). I measure volume by the number of hand movements.

#1 - Thumbless & Both feet on holds. I noticed, by looking at the videos from my recent roadtrip, that I flag too much. A couple of problems could have been sent faster if I worked to have both feet on (including a couple of missed flashes) #2 Focused on quality of movement. #3 Still focused on movement. I choose the systemboard because I wanted to train my biggest indoor limiter, pinches, and the system board has lots of pinches. Did my standard Open Hand switches on the hangboard. #4 Split time between slab climbing and brisk continuous climbing. Foot work & movement = my bread yam & butter (I'm paleo).

The Best Chain on the Slaveship

Training: 1) Technique

2) Competition Simulation

3) Threshold Bouldering/Technique

4) CIR

5) Prehab

Listen to the Nugget

Notes: Last "Heavy Day" before the comp. Only climbing but laser focused climbing. #1 Focused on being relaxed. “Slow is smooth and smooth is fast” (Stolen from Dan John. Who probably stole it from someone else.) #2 Flash some hardish stuff. At several points, I was heel hooking hard enough to almost cramp up. I'm curious about the cause - suboptimal technique, electrolyte imbalance, hamstring weakness, leg fatigue, or something else. Focused on learning the tricks of the competition setters. Learning from the past - most national champions were from Boulder, CO and most national championship setters were from Boulder, CO. (Quite the coincidence). #3 Focused on movements that are difficult for me. #4 Advanced problem repeats with near complete rest. #5 No abs or strength training today.

Thingsgetting Day

Training: 1) Technique

2) Competition Simulation

3) Campus/Hangboard

4) Stamina

5) Prehab/Core

High of 30 ...

3ft of snow on the boulders ...

Time to Hit The Board!!!

Notes: Coming off a successful 2+ week roadtrip (more about that later). New cycle - Contest Prep. Attacking specific weaknesses - reading heel hooks during flash attempts, indoor pinches, and stamina for 3 hours of sending. #1 - foot hoover, decompress, keep technique the same as grades increase (stolen from Olympic Lifting training) #2 - I flashed the second hardest problem in the gym. The hardest "problem" was 13+ moves. Most routes I do aren't 13 moves. #3 Was syked on a campusboard with pinches until I found out that 50% were spinners. GUTTER!! Lack of quality control. Settled for flat rungs (non-standard spacing of course) #4 Sent 95% of the problems in the gym, expect for the problems set for double-jointed leprechauns. #5 Left shoulder is a 3 on a scale from 1 (mighty healthy) to 10 (schedule the surgery suite). Need to reprioritize durability (durability = mobility + strength, Mountain Athlete definition).

Clydesdale Climber

Training: 1) Continuous Climbing, .5 block

2) 3x repeats, 1 block

3) 6x3 bouldering intervals, rest as needed

4) BS, 3X5, 205

5) Press, 3x5, 130 (f)

6) Prehab

Notes: Last training session before roadtrip. No need to taper because I'm in a performance cycle. Session geared towards efficiency. My current focus on outside bouldering has lead to some bad habits. #1 - Best way to trick myself into becoming a better climber. #2 - All diffuciity levels. Rewarded myself with a hard flash every couple of sets. #4 - Way off my all time PR of 315. Choosing to be a climber. #5 Failed on last rep.

Decorated Silence

Training: 1) Technique

2) Threshold Bouldering, 1/2 block

3) Hangboard, 1/2 block

Raw Power,
Always Classic

Notes: Deep in the season. The only problem is my work doesn't know it. Snuck in some training. #1 Climbed easy problems on my home wall three times. First time was normal. Second time was foot hoover. Third time was "decompress." I did some problems with foot-chip only feet. #2 Fun #3 Open hand only. 15s time domain. You can't push a river.

The Pirate Eye

Training: 1) Bouldering

2) Technique

Another line I put up in Keystone, CO. There is an even lower, super dabby, start to that problem. The line to the left looks nice but I couldn't motivate myself to clean it up. There is literally 1'' of moss on everything in that cave. "Demand Control" will probably be downgraded to V0- once all the moss is gone.

Notes: I found a nice project about 20 minutes from house. Here is the breakdown -

Pros - 20 minute drive & 1 minute walk, Probably has never been done, Easy to protect, ~8 moves


Cons - It is a link-up (At least it is not an eliminate. I have standards. Not high standards, but standards none the less), Outside chance of bashing my skull open (Helmet time?).

I was planning to shoot some video today, but God's is crying on the Front Range. I added a project page to keep me syked. If any of them look good, hit me for beta (Should be called "digital" now?).

#1 Standard stuff - new problems, refined old problems, found limiters #2 More standard stuff. My technique business, i.e, relax, breathe, focus on foot placement, and pushing with feet. I put it at the end of this session to stress-proof the techniques. I want to use that good technique stuff on the rock when I'm tired.

Prudent Paranoia

Training: 1) Technique

2) Hangboard

rest 5 hours

3) Screw Around in Climbing Gym

4) Front Squat, DE, 175lbs

5) Press, 3X5, 115

6) Core & Prehab



Notes: 3rd day on. The other two days were putting up first ascents, fun but not high volume. I'm a believer that massive amounts of quality climbing is the fastest path to Crankdom. So today was a volume day. #1 Trying something new - thumbless climbing. Inspired by the video. No crimping or pinching. It fixes two problems 1. My strong loathing of pinchcentric indoor climbing. 2. My addiction to crimping. Thumbless climbing also forces straighter arm climbing (free money). All around a great tool in the workout toolbox #2 I trained in the 15-20s range. Matching my previous baseline. #3 Went to a commercial gym. Horrible setting and crowded. The best I could manage was a hybrid of density training and short intervals. Chasing two rabbits and didn't catch either one. #4-5 Maintenance work. Lowered the volume on the squats. Last time my squat recovery cut into my subsequent outdoor session. If your cross-training cuts into your sport or life, it time to reevaluate your program (or lack of one). #6 Rotator cuff is healthier. Elbows are little funky.

Facebook Grammar

1) Threshold Bouldering

2) Flash Ladder

3) Snatch, Work up to heavy single (155lbs) then 3 singles @ 90%

4) 1 arm press, KB, 50lbs 3x5

5) Core and 1-arm pull-ups

Notes: Training at a pretty good facility. Plenty of hard problems (no hard routes). The routesetting is good and varied. However, some of the feet are high for my body size. #1 Typically Threshold Bouldering focuses on limit-level moves. I did a slight variation, I focused on moves I suck at. These moves were on problems 2 grades easier than my flash level for today. It was "fun" to be humbled. #2 I wanted to get some stamina work and toughen my skin. Lately, I have been doing after work sessions and that doesn't cut it for an up coming road trip. I started at one grade easier than my flash level for today. Started to shred after a little while. Then dropped a grade. Repeat till lack of skin. #3 Oly lifting is fun. I have lost the capacity to train clean & jerk in the same session. #4 I was inspired by this article about core training. This was my first access to the proper equipment.

Here is my rank ordered list of core training for climbers:

1. Power Touches

2. Planks

3. Front Levers

4. L-sit Scissors

5. Ab wheel roll-outs

6. Basic Barbell Exercises

7. 90 degree sit-ups

8. Everything else

Free Range Human

1) Technique

2) Threshold Bouldering

3) Bouldering

rest 4 hours

4) DT

5) RI

I love climbing movement and can't get enough of these videos.

Notes: 2-a-days can only mean one thing - Full Pre-season #2 Even my Threshold Bouldering follows a progression. My relationship with my current indoor project - Individual moves with open feet (Day 1). Link moves in groups of 2s & 3s (Day 2). Individual moves with tracking feet (Day 3) #3 Sent project problem after 3 days of work (with open feet). #4 Stepped up by swapping out a short easy Adv for harder longer Adv. Adds up over 4 repeats in 20 minutes. #5 Not much in the tank but worked on recovery.

Nothing Tastes As Good As Skinny Feels

Training: 1) Technique

2) Bouldering

Notes: 3rd day on but felt good. Modulating intensity and volume #1 - Perfect Practice. Repeat hardish problem 3x in row. Strive to be better each time. Fast and Smooth #2 - Worked and sent a boulder problem I set the day before. Not ideal but what I got (for now). I had to dig deep. Felt good to struggle and win.

Non-Gaussian Errors in the Residuals

1) Technique, 1 block

2) Hard Bouldering, .5

3) DT, 1 block

Notes: Last hard day before taper. I feel good but a little beat up, right where I want to be. #1 Learn a trick for dynoing, especially for lateral ones. AIM FOR THE BACK OF THE HOLD. It is like shooting free-throws. Instead of aiming for lip, aim deep. #2 Hard bouldering was more of a break between other two. Nothing was enaging, aka everything was too easy. It is a blessing in disguise, forces me to focus on technique and tolerance. #3 20 minutes, 2 laps on 4 problems, 3 laps on 3 problems. All Adv. Settting blocked access to one of the problems. Training in commerical gyms is an exercise in futility.

Blogging Empire

Training: 1) Technique

2) Bouldering

3) T2P

4) Dynamic Effort, 1-arm

5) MU, 3X4

6) Pull-ups and Dips

7) Front lever and stall bar leg lifts

Notes: Settling into a groove. Technquie work, a bit of hardish climbing, and some tolerance training. I'm getting better at each of these aspects. Hopefully, I will see some transfer.

#1 foot hover, decompress #2 Focus on quality movement over sending, alertnagted between my own problems and established climbs #3 Traverse into Spiderman (~V2 into ~V3), 6 laps, 2:00 between laps #5-#7 Noticed some modest gains after taking 3 days off. Birthday Challenges training is training for its own sport (that you make up the rules to). I always feel like I need to get more serious about the training. I supersetted the physical training with fun, i.e. front flips out off the trampoline pit, learning basic parallette work, and 1-arm cartwheels.

Poking The Bear

1) Technique, 1.5 block

2) Bouldering, .5 block

3) Fartlek Intervals, 1 block

4) Mobility/Basic Gymnastics, 1 block


"Two-Minute Drills Part 2: Treating That Sticky Rib" with Kelly Starrett

Notes: #1 Continuing to move up the dyno progression - bigger, more sidewise, more single handed. Continued progression on one leg climbing by climbing harder problems #2 Quick sent all the new problems, including a "project" dyno (2nd go, static for me) #3 I'm improving and it feels nice. 1st round - Adv, Active Recovery (AR), Int, Int 2nd round - Adv, Adv, Int, Int 3rd round - Adv, AR, Adv, Int, AR, Int #4 Tried the Kelly Starrett "Treating that sticking rib" until I started to cry (literally). Either I was doing something very right or very wrong. The jury is still out. I "played" on cool playground bars near my work, made up a nice kipping pull-up progression (since I don't know of one for tight shoulders). I released so much tension that I feel like I'm floating.

Narrative Fallacy

Training: 1) Technique

2) Bouldering

3) RI, 5 minutes

4) Mobility

Notes: #1 2nd dyno session - reinforced the basics, moved to bigger, compression and started awkard dynos #2 Making nice gains. Focused on smooth linking of moves #3 lost interest #4 working through my stuff, mainly neck and wrist, nothing major.