Untied Testarossas

Objective: Climbing Technique, Climbing Endurance

Warm-up: Flash, V0 X 3
V1 X 2
V2 X 1

Training: 1) Flash problems, up to V8, 75 minutes

2) Climbing continuously, 20 minutes

3) Prehab

Autobelays
Second only to tread walls for training Climbing Endurance

Notes: Movement training session and they had reset one of their bouldering walls. I used the opportunity to train for an upcoming indoor comp and road trip. My goal wasn't just to get to the top of the problems, but to get the top as perfectly as possible. #2 was Farlek-style, mix of hard climbing with 5.9 climbing.

Big Game Area, End of the Season

I have spent the last 2 days at "Big Game", and it is looking unbelievably rad. It is no Hueco Tanks, but it is awesome for being within 30 minutes of my house. The first day was a work day, i.e. scouting the best walls and building landings. At the end of the day I snuck in some climbing on a striking line on "Trophy Wall".

"That is a Good Looking Mount"
Project

On the second day, I was joined by a Lauren, a coworker from the climbing gym, for bag limit amount of FAs. We start the day at "Season Opener Cave", repeating the lines and solidifying the grades. I put another line:

"Bag and Tag" V3/4

We quickly moved to "Small Game Wall." Originally I named it "Small Game Wall" as a poke at boulders. There is some good (but hidden) sport climbing potential, and this is just a small cave. The name is now ironic because the wall is mostly highballs.

Top Rope Inspection,
just like the pros do

The right most line, pictured above, is "Chubby Bunny" V1. Lauren stepped up and got the FA. I had to settle for the FMA (First Male Ascent). The next line to the left is "Frightened Rabbit" V5. It was starts on large jug to dynamic moves on sloping loafs.

"Frightened Rabbit"
V5/Project

The next line to the right is SDS on a jug then follows a crack feature to a throw to a sloping ledge.

"Wicked Wabbit"
V7/Project

Full disclosure: I did feel comfortable enough to top out the last two lines.

Next, we went over to the steep "Who's Hunting Who Wall" and both flashed a steep fun line on the right. While I was investigating an alternative descent after I sent the middle line, I spooked the biggest rattlesnake I have ever seen. Even though Lauren didn't see it, the rattle was loud enough to scare her from climbing there anymore.

"Who's Hunting Who Wall"
right to left
Unnamed, V2 - SDS, fun climbing to awkward exit
Unnamed, V3 - lie back fins
"Tommy Lee's Rattle", Project - SDS, climb arete

We finished the day at "Trophy Wall", 300+ft. mostly continuous wall. It starts in a potential sport climbing cave. The next 100ft section is easy bouldering. Followed by 100ft section over the river. Then another small potential sport climbing cave. It is end capped with "That is a Good Looking Mount" Project. We just traversed the 100ft section of easy bouldering.

"Manny Feet Traverse", V2
(Not a typo but a bad pun)

Unfortunately, that is the end of the season for "Big Game". It lies on public land which is closed to the public (other than hunting and fishing) from September 1 to May 1.

Big Game Area, "Season Opener"

Today was the first day of development for the Big Game Area, primarily it is a hunting area for "Big Game". I don't know what the "Big Game" is, but I'm a little spooked walking through the chest-high grass.

Season Opener Cave

1. Chipmunk Killing Time, VO - SDS
2. Unnamed, V3 - SDS, tricksy start yields to easier climbing
3. Season Opener, V2/3, - SDS, follow good edges, rad problem
4. Unnamed, V0 - SDS, easy climbing leads to spooky exit

There are a couple more problems left to do in "Season Opener Cave", including a traverse line.

This is will be "Small Game Wall", with at least 4 independent lines.
I'm usually not syked on traverses but this could be another good one.

I broke my trusty shears.

Season Opener, FA

Bonus : I found an application to create beta photos (like the one above). Check it out - Beta Creator.

Horsetooth Reservoir, Wreck Yourself Thursdays

Problems Sent: A bunch of easy moderates
Mental Standard, V4 (4th go, lost my outdoor edge)

Problems Tried: Pinch Overhang, V5, 1 try
Mammen Traverse, V9, worked (it will go soon)

Climbing -

Falling -

Notes: @ and I did a little before work session at Horsetooth Reservoir. It was okay. We climbed, I fell, it got hot, and we went home.

Belbows

Objective: Climbing Strength

Warm-up: Flash, Rec X 4 (up & down)
Intermediate X 3 (up & down)

Training: 1) Technique, roof, drop-knee, heel hook, hand/foot match

2) Flash, Adv X 3
Adv X 1 (fail)

3) System, sloper, 1-2 moves
upper left match

Residue of the Mountain Athlete training session

Notes: The roof technique training is paying off with a flash of Adv roof problem. I still don't like climbing roofs (too much feet cutting). I failed to flash an Adv problem because I couldn't figure out how the feet should drive the movement. I'm getting measurably strong on slopers. PROGRESS!!

Big Game, Another New Area

Today I left the house with the modest goals of bolting new lines near The Palace. However fate had different plans, a traffic accident shut down Highway 14. I used it as an opportunity to explore the wilder, north part of Larimer Country. I found a rad new area.

I'm calling it "Big Game."

Welcome to "Big Game" Country

This small cave is 15 minutes from the road.

Steep Wall

Another Cave

Different view of same cave

There is potential for sport climbing but nothing spectacular

The catch is this section of public land only open to the public from May 1 to September 1.
No time to waste!!

From what I have seen about 1% of the rock in Larimer County is developed.

"FRANKEN HANG BOARD"

Obj: Finger Strength (I say Climbing Stamina)

Warm up: 3 Rounds
1 minute hang board
5x Renegade Man Makers (M-25#, W-15#)

Training:
(1) 10 Rounds, 10 sec hang, 10 sec rest, each combination, body weight only
- Pinkie/Ring (big pocket)
- Ring/Middle (medium pocket)
- Middle/Index (big pocket)
- Small Ledge (all 4 fingers)
- Medium Ledge (all 4 fingers)
- Big Ledge (all 4 fingers)

(2) 3 Rounds
Run 200m
20x Box Jumps
10x Push Ups

(3) Repeat Part (1)

My pinky is small and mostly useless

Notes: Mountain Athlete Session in Boulder. Hangboard minutes always kill me. They never get easier. I had to use my middle finger on the first set, split finger pocket hang. My ring/middle are my "get it done" pocket fingers and relatively strong. I'm reluctant to add weight, maybe next time. 20x Box Jumps is a lot for Olympic Lifter. I'm not in hybrid training shape anymore, red lining for the last 2/3. Even at 9am, it is hot in Boulder. I felt "soupy" at the end.

I really enjoy MA workouts. They are very hard and different from what I would program. I'm attracted to some core CrossFit ideas (It is hard for me to buy wholesale into any one program). For example, "Constantly varied, functional movements executed at high intensity." This workout is consistent with that idea.

I need to get stronger at open hand. The last two workouts are progress towards that goal.