Ferret Leggings

Training: 1) Threshold Bouldering

2) Hangboard

rest 2 hours

3) Technique

4) Repeats

5 ) Technique

6) TGU

7) Press

8) Core & Prehab



Notes: Start of the official winter training session for me.

#1 Back to my home wall. I set it up specifically for threshold work. I'm better (possibly stronger) than last home wall session. #2 Surpassed my old benchmarks. Success! #3 Foot Hoover. I tend to climb ladder-like when I foot hoover. I worked on other movement patterns. #4 Did doubles. Flashed all the new problems. Was able to dramatically improve on 2nd lap. Playing with movement. Got hard real quick. #5 Foot Hoover with no hands. I have a project in that style. Freaking hard/rad. #6 Worked up to 35lbs. Perfect movement. #8 3X5, 125 Maintenance work. #9 Standing crunches, 3X10, 180lbs

Data Is The New Oil

Training: 1) Technique

2) Threshold Bouldering

3) Hangboard

4) Core/Gymnastics

Louie Simmons on Proper Training
(Sorry I'm having trouble embedding .mov)

What are your testers?

What are your builders?

Notes: A session at The Spot. Climbing at The Spot is its own subgenre of climbing - Big feet & Small Moves.

#1 Worked on smooth flashes #2 The Spot doesn't set that many hard moves. It is the 10+ medium-hard moves in a row that get to me. #3 They don't have a hangboard (WTF?). Did Crankenstein hangs = Offset hands on campus rungs. #4 Did shadow-boxing front levers. They are similar to Power Touches but more scalable. I'll post a video next week. I'm working the gymnastic skills of a 6 year old girl, i.e. walk overs, cartwheels, and basic tumbling.

Malevolent, Vengeful, and Arbitrary

Training: 1) Technique

2) Threshold Bouldering

3) System Board

4) Random Repeats

5) Prehab



Notes: A Medium Day in The Plan. #1 Did a circuit of moderates to work on smooth flow. Minimal time on the ground and shaking out. Right now now my technique work is random. I need to create a progression to address my limiters. #2 Worked some individual moves. Already seeing improvement. Also made connections between moves I can do and can't do. #3 Was able to repeat my old Open hand benchmarks. Did some body open ladders. #4 Random fun. Tried to climb well but was tired.

Thingsgetting Day

Training: 1) Technique

2) Competition Simulation

3) Campus/Hangboard

4) Stamina

5) Prehab/Core

High of 30 ...

3ft of snow on the boulders ...

Time to Hit The Board!!!

Notes: Coming off a successful 2+ week roadtrip (more about that later). New cycle - Contest Prep. Attacking specific weaknesses - reading heel hooks during flash attempts, indoor pinches, and stamina for 3 hours of sending. #1 - foot hoover, decompress, keep technique the same as grades increase (stolen from Olympic Lifting training) #2 - I flashed the second hardest problem in the gym. The hardest "problem" was 13+ moves. Most routes I do aren't 13 moves. #3 Was syked on a campusboard with pinches until I found out that 50% were spinners. GUTTER!! Lack of quality control. Settled for flat rungs (non-standard spacing of course) #4 Sent 95% of the problems in the gym, expect for the problems set for double-jointed leprechauns. #5 Left shoulder is a 3 on a scale from 1 (mighty healthy) to 10 (schedule the surgery suite). Need to reprioritize durability (durability = mobility + strength, Mountain Athlete definition).

Decorated Silence

Training: 1) Technique

2) Threshold Bouldering, 1/2 block

3) Hangboard, 1/2 block

Raw Power,
Always Classic

Notes: Deep in the season. The only problem is my work doesn't know it. Snuck in some training. #1 Climbed easy problems on my home wall three times. First time was normal. Second time was foot hoover. Third time was "decompress." I did some problems with foot-chip only feet. #2 Fun #3 Open hand only. 15s time domain. You can't push a river.

The Pirate Eye

Training: 1) Bouldering

2) Technique

Another line I put up in Keystone, CO. There is an even lower, super dabby, start to that problem. The line to the left looks nice but I couldn't motivate myself to clean it up. There is literally 1'' of moss on everything in that cave. "Demand Control" will probably be downgraded to V0- once all the moss is gone.

Notes: I found a nice project about 20 minutes from house. Here is the breakdown -

Pros - 20 minute drive & 1 minute walk, Probably has never been done, Easy to protect, ~8 moves


Cons - It is a link-up (At least it is not an eliminate. I have standards. Not high standards, but standards none the less), Outside chance of bashing my skull open (Helmet time?).

I was planning to shoot some video today, but God's is crying on the Front Range. I added a project page to keep me syked. If any of them look good, hit me for beta (Should be called "digital" now?).

#1 Standard stuff - new problems, refined old problems, found limiters #2 More standard stuff. My technique business, i.e, relax, breathe, focus on foot placement, and pushing with feet. I put it at the end of this session to stress-proof the techniques. I want to use that good technique stuff on the rock when I'm tired.

Strong is the New Skinny

1) Bouldering

2) Hangboard

Notes: I'm too busy right now to climb as much as I like, ideally 4 times a week. I'm getting ahead in work now so I have more free time when the temperatures are better. Keeping the goal the goal. However, I snuck out to Shelf Road for the first time. It is rad, chossy American limestone. I onsighted 6 routes in a 1/2 day (9, 10a, 10a/b, 10c/d, 11b, 11b). It was fun to have a Zero-Fall Day. The best excuses that I could come up for the low numbers with are: It is still the preseason, aka freaking hot, I haven't been clipping bolts, and it is 1/4 of full moon. If I'm going to be a better sport climber, I need get better excuses. #1 Falling in love with my woody (Don't Judge). Here is my "challenge" list. I list the holds, which have names, in order to make a challenge. No tape! The main problems are rank ordered by row. The columns represent different styles. Open - any feet. Thumbless- can't use my thumbs but still open feet. Static - use my thumbs and any foot holds, but no feet cutting. Foot Chip - wooden dowels only for feet. FC/TL/S - Foot chip, Thumbless, Static, aka Crankenfrank style. There is built-in progression, both vertically (harder problems) and horizontally (harder style). #2 Just Open Hand. Hit new benchmarks!! I spent the rest time wrapping my PVC pipe in athlete tape. I upgraded to PVC the last year (Thanks to Dan John advice), but now it is "better" thanks to Wenlder. KANI.

The Wrong Day To Quit Methadone

Training: 1) 80% Bouldering

2) Hangboard

3) Core & Prehab

Note: I'm not much of a project climber. There are too many good climbs to try anyone for more than a day! However, I'm fired up about the "Merlin Project". I have to get stronger on crimps. DAMN!!! It provides a renewed focus to my training.

#1 This is hard play. I find moves I suck at and try to refine them. Lots of falling. Some not falling. All success (I define success as learning and growing). #2 Still making progress. I did a full workout (all three grips). I gave myself a gold star for doing mobility drills between sets. #3 I rotate core exercises every 3 weeks, trying to break PRs every week. The current menu specials are L-sit scissors and ab wheel roll-outs. Hammering my rotator cuffs (in a good way).

Hedonic Adaptation

Training: 1) 80% Bouldering

2) Hangboard

Ankle mobility is a prerequisite for quality climbing movement.

Check out Mobility WOD (Climbing Lab Approved)

Note: I did not want to train today. It was a "Everything Sucks Today" day. I worked all day and went to the Big Game Area right after (it is the last day of the season). I started working on some lesser projects. It was hot and muggy. I fell out of awkward heelhook, missed the pad, and bruised my foot. As I was exploring, I fell in the river. I throw in the towel (which I didn't have), went home and put on some Dr. Dre. Once I started to train, everything was put right.

#1 I made up new medium hard problems. I wasn't in the proper mental state to compare myself to my own previous performance. #2 I didn't want to push my old records so I created new records in a different time domain, 15-20s. Still sticking the basics and stuff I suck at, i.e. Open and 1/2 Crimp positions.

Merit-based Discrimination

Training: 1) 80% bouldering, 2 blocks

2) Hangboard

Notes: Back in CO. I had a rad session yesterday at the "Big Game" Area, cleaned up and sent 4 projects. The videos are all cut (can't post them because I'm over my VIMEO limit).

#1 - This workout was inspire by a Dan John comment about working your personal 80% level up. Some people pound themselves into the ground working 1 RM/ limit level sends. If you gently nudge up a lower (but still significant) work capacity, you can make more progress with less chance of injury. I translated that to climbing problems that I can send in 2 or 3 tries. I'll report back if it works. It is similar to ideas in Wendler's 5/3/1. #2 - Still milking linear progress on hangboard. Keeping grip, hold, and time constant, but adding 2.5lbs per workout. Adding 1lb per workout from now on.

The Luxury of Slowly Falling Apart

Training: 1) Threshold Bouldering

2) Hangboard

3) 5 rounds (all with 20lb vest):

10 pull-ups

15 Ab wheel roll out (from knees)

15 ring pull-ups

Phase I Complete

Operational Woody

Don't Be Afraid to Shave

Notes: #1 Still getting used to my wall. Set a simulation of my project. #2 Just Open Hand, still making linear progress #3 Smart Conditioning

Transitioning into the Fall Season. The plan is scout new places, clean potential projects, hangboard 1x or 2x week, and train weaknesses. The goal is to peak in 1 month.

Spiritual Marriage

Training: 1) Hangboard
Grip - Open
Arms - 1
Hold - Over Easy Side, Top Row, Inside
Set
1 - 7s, +5
2 - 7s, +5
3 - 7s, +5

Grip - 1/2 Crimp
Arms - 1
Hold - Over Easy Side, Middle Row, Outside
Set
1 - 7s, -32.5
2 - 7s, -32.5
3 - 11s, -32.5

Grip - Full Crimp
Arms - 1
Hold - Over Easy Side, Middle Row, Outside
Set
1 - 7s, -25
2 - 7s, -25
3 - 9s, -25

Notes: Busy Boy. Second Hangboard Session. Added the watch. Making Progress.

Climbing Gym Cute

Training: 1) Hangboard
Grip - Open
Arms - 1
Hold - Over Easy Side, Top Row, Inside
Set
1 - *s, +0
2 - *s, +0
3 - *s, +0

Grip - 1/2 Crimp
Arms - 1
Hold - Over Easy Side, Middle Row, Outside
Set
1 - *s, w/ assistance
2 - *s, w/ assistance
3 - *s, w/ assistance

Grip - Full Crimp
Arms - 2
Hold - Over Easy Side, Lowest Row, Outside
Set
1 - *s, +0
2 - *s, +0
3 - *s, +0

Notes: Back to the hangboard. I'm looking forward to getting strong for the fall season. New strength = sending new projects. I never add the watch during the first session of any new cycle. Going through the motions provides plenty of stimulus. Think optimal, not maximal.

My plan is loosely baised on Elemental Fitness and Wendler's 3/2/1. It is simple, three most imporant grips, three sets, and add weight every session. I rest 10:1, 70s for 7s of effort. You get stronger from resting after appropriate stress.

Nothing Tastes As Good As Skinny Feels

Training: 1) Technique

2) Bouldering

Notes: 3rd day on but felt good. Modulating intensity and volume #1 - Perfect Practice. Repeat hardish problem 3x in row. Strive to be better each time. Fast and Smooth #2 - Worked and sent a boulder problem I set the day before. Not ideal but what I got (for now). I had to dig deep. Felt good to struggle and win.

TMPHBITEU

Training: 1) Technique, 1 block

2) Hang, .3 block

3) T2P, 2 blocks

Notes: I'm transitioning from roadtrip into my training cycle. This cycle will focus on tolerance, i.e., the ability to do hard moves when pumped. I suck really bad at it, both on a physical and mental level.

#1 - Focused on using momentum especially from a position of off-balance, e.g. right foot on (only) and moving left arm. #2 - I'm training for a cliff that has a proper amount of 2 finger pockets. Most gyms choose not to set with pockets so I've to supplement with a hangboard. SAID, enough said. #3 - I traversed ~10 moves of V1/2 into ~15 moves of V4/5.

2 finger campusing to warm-up.

If you think you can 2 finger campus, you can.

Arthur Clarke's Law

Training: 1) Climbing Technique

2) Hangboard/Mobility

3) Bouldering

Good Training Weather

Notes: #1 My technique on steep terrain falls apart when pumped. I practiced ingraining the fundamentals in a low stress situation. Push with feet, knee bars, heel hooks, & drop knees. #2 Sloper & 1/2 crimp, 8 sets of 6s on/60s off. No Full Crimp cause I'm starting to "quit doing shit I've already mastered." #3 Got on some hard bouldering inside, ~5 problems. Some even took me 4 tries! A good change.

Some Change For Something Strange

Training: 1) Route Doubles (Climb 1st Route, Short rest while previewing , Climb 2nd Route, Rest 5 minutes, repeat), 45 minutes

2) Bouldering, 30 minutes

rest 4 hours

3) System Board, 30 minutes

4) Hangboard, 30 minutes

5) Icing & Wine, 30 minutes

Notes: This is the start of a transition period in my training. The Front Range spring season is tapering down, and I'm leaving on a roadtrip in one month. The new cycle will be based on the Block Programming from Steve Betchel with a couple of tweaks. I plan to add a technique block per microcycle and still try to get outside 3-4 times per microcycle.

#1 - I climbed the hardest routes at the gym. Got pumped but didn't fall. #2 - Didn't go well. The taped problems were too easy and all set by one person. Monochromatic setting gets boring quickly. #3 Focused on open hand and then 1/2 crimp, feet not cutting #4 Focused on 1/2 crimp and then sloper. Supersetted maximum effort hangs with mobility drills. My body felt better than when I started. #5 I usually don't. Glad I did.

Addicted to My Enemies

Training: 1) Flash New Problems

2) Technique, Dynos

3) Repeat 5 Adv Problems, +1 lb ankle weights

4) Open Hand, Systemboard
Lower Left, Big Feet, +5lbs

5) 1/2 Crimp, (Fail - skin)

6) Wide Moves, Systemboard
Skip 1 over and 1 up, +3lbs

7) 1-arm pull-ups
Left - +10lbs (PR!), 9, 9, 9
Right - +5lbs (PR!), 3, 3, 3

8) Ryhthm Intervals, 3 rounds
Level 2, 2, 1

Notes: I'm naturally transitioning to a new cycle. My primary focus will be outside performance climbing. I will still be training indoors, treating weaknesses identified from outside, dictated by the capricious CO weather.

#3 & #4 - Trying to stay ahead of the "Law of Accommodation" by judiciously using weight. In the past, I went too fast and too hard. I'm starting slow with plenty of room to progress, a key to successful training. For example, I can vary hold size (3 levels), foot size (3 levels), and weight (infinite levels) for each grip type on Systemboard ladders.

#5 - After the last two days outside, skin is a limiting factor.

#6 -I had difficulties on a large move between medium sized holds on a problem outside.

#7 - PRs are still coming. My training guideline is: Set a new PR, Drop down to 90% to solidify it, and Go home.

#8 - Not much in the tank for conditioning.

Training is felt before it's understood

Training: 1) Technique, Decompress, 15 minutes

2) Flash new problems

3) Standard Open, 1/2 Crimp, Full Crimp Hangs

4) Yoga, 60 minutes

5) Perfect Practice, 30 minutes

6) 1-arm pull-ups, dynamic effort

7) Ab wheel

Notes: Feel kinda beat up, thus did not set any PRs. I couldn't do some of the mandatory jumps for the new problems. That is still a big mental barrier. It is hard to let go of control for me. My body and mind is still not used to my new found strength, a good problem to have. My ego got a boast when the problem that shut me down yesterday, shut down a nationally-ranked bouldering competitor today. Damn, I was going to beta whore him.

Greener Than A Chanuk in UT

Training: 1) Technique, Foot Hoover, 30 minutes

2) Flash New Problems

3) Threshold Bouldering, 45 minutes

A good night to be training

Notes: I'm getting less stupid. In the past 4 days, I climbed 3 days on and 1 day off. The old me would have tried to campus today. The new me tried to be more productive and less damaging. I need some new technique drills. The drills I use aren't randomly picked. Each one treats a specific weakness. I got SHUT DOWN on 1 of the new problems. My style of climbing relies on footwork and momentum. This problem has whacked feet and hard lock offs. Maybe an indoor project for this winter relapse? I focused on open hand and 1/2 crimp moves during threshold bouldering.