PMA Wall, Wreck Yourself Monday

Objective : Being everything to everyone

1) Set Route - 6am

2) Lab Meeting - 9am

3) Climbing Photo Shoot- Noon

4) Work FA projects - 2pm

5) Cardio - 6pm

Gettin' Some at PMA wall

Teaching Puppies Old Dog Tricks

Notes: Today was long and hard. But I won't have it any other way. The new guidebook to the Poudre Canyon is coming to fruition. I was able to contribute by wearing tight, bright clothes and climbing cruxes (over and over). Afterwords I somehow convinced the crew to check out PMA wall so I could drop rocks on their heads while they froze to death. I did all the moves on "Free is Everything", the link up between "Free but Not Cheap" and "Stupid Happy with Everything." It goes and its hard. Reasonable climbing sets up a deadpoint to a credit card edge. RAD.

"Stupid Happy with Everything " is still a little loose. The crux is an even bigger deadpoint from worse holds but you latch a flat edge. I wasn't able to stick it but it is possible. I'm syked on contributing to hard climbing in Poudre Canyon. It is a race between the weather and guidebook deadlines.

Walking On One’s Eyeballs

1) Technique, Perfect/Heels down, 15 minutes

2) Open Hand, Systemboard, Upper Right/Upper Left

3) 1/2 Crimp, Systemboard, #1 (!!)

4) Full Crimp, Systemboard, #0

5) Technique, Perfect, 15 minutes

6) 3 rounds
Straddle Front Lever, 7s
Technique, Heels down

7) Shoulder Prehab circuit

8) Practice Handstand/HSPU

Notes: The concept of "Perfect Practice" was inspired by a recent Climb Strong post. It discuses Economy Climbing, repeating easy problems with perfect technique and efficiency. I feel like my Economy Climbing is good. I wanted to improve my ability on relatively difficult problems. I repeated an Advanced problem, roughly my flash level, 3 times. Improving each time. Not drastically, a millimeter there and an initiation there. I super setted that with heels down training. My calves are still tight and weak.

I'm following undulating periodization with my strength training. I always train grips from weakest to strongest, slopers-1/2 crimp- full crimp. I maintain with two grips and try to set a PR with one grip. I recently set a PR with full crimp. This time I set a PR with 1/2 crimp. Next time with sloper. It is rad getting measurable stronger.

I picked a bunch of different Adv problems for #5. My left elbow was a little angry when I tried to 1-arm pull-ups (originally from the 2-a-day at BRC).

Miss Galaxy Pageant

Training: 1) Flash, New Problems, 15 minutes

2) Technique, Over Speed, 10 minutes

3) Technique, Dynos, 10 minutes

4) Campus, Doubles, Large Rungs
3-1
4-1(f)

5) Campus, Ladder, Large Rungs
1-2-6
1-3-7(f)

6) Campus, Ladder, Medium Rungs
1-4-6

rest 15 minutes

7) Threshold Bouldering, 20 minutes

8) Technique, Over Speed, 10 minutes

Paul and Gabor train together.
You are as good (or as bad) as your training partners.

Notes: I got #2 from a Vern's post. I think it would better with short sections of roped climbing compared to bouldering. I was tired from 2 days ago so I worked on solidifying my current campus training, #4-6. Doubles down are scary. I'm not inspired to project any of the bouldering so I made up my own moves. I grew bored with that too.

C3PO, My 1st V10 in HD

Click on the title to watch it in HD

Crag To Be Named (By You)

Should keep me busy for the winter

There is a route hidden in the picture

Easy bouldering around the corner

The gem of the area

Slightly overhanging blank face
Simply Dreamy

I enjoyed a pleasant winter day by developing another wall, located about 100 meters from PMA wall. I bolted a steep moderate line, 10ish, and prepped the area for bouldering. While I was on top I noticed two additional much larger formations. There is a ridiculous amounts of rock right outside my door.

I don't have a name for the cliff or the route. I'm turning the naming process over the loyal readers of this blog. It is your chance for immortality. Please post name suggestions to comments.

Robotripping

Training: 1) Technique, Crack, Hands, Thin Hands, Fingers, 20 minutes

2) Flash, Distillation, 15 minutes

3) Work, Hard Problems, 15 minutes

4) Treadwall, Long Intervals, 1:1

5) Sited Muscle-ups, 3X4

6) 1-legged deck squats, 3X4

7) Plank stars, 3X1

8) 3 rounds
Weighted sit-ups, 45lbs, 10 reps
Reverse wrist curls, 12lbs, 10 reps

9) 3 rounds
Sited Russian Twist, Light kb, 10 reps
Shoulder Scarecrow, 5lbs, 4 reps

10) 1-arm pull-ups, light band assisted, 3X3

Bonus - I went back in the evening to "crag" with my girlfriend and still could flash their 12s.

Taos, NM, Questa Dome

Problems Sent: Mr. Personality, v4, FA (aka Blank Apron Project, RAD)
Damnation, V2, flash (stand, weird possible sds)
Girl Scout, V2, 2nd go (Wizard-style)
Betty Crooker, V1, flash (I heart pockets)
The Bean, V0, flash (1 move wonder)
The Be-In, V0, flash (HARD, nearly broke my frozen wrists on the mantle)
Unnamed, Vo, flash (slab, no hands)

Problems Tried: Pan Flute, V3, 1 try (stupid fall)
Chef-boy-arte, v6, 1 try (pile of small, sharp pockets)
Varisty, V7, 2 tries (slabish, cranked so hard on the nothingness I hurt my hand)

Follow the animal tracks to the boulders

Which way are you going?

Look Ma, No Hands

SLAAAB

Happy On Top

Looking in vain for positive holds

Looking the "hold"

Finding the "hold"

Letting go of the "hold"

Mr. Personality, FA

Mr. Personality, FA
The chalked areas aren't holds, only areas where I placed my hands

Following My Bliss

Notes: On the way back to CO, we stopped by Questa Dome for a little alpine bouldering. It is a remote forest with granite blocks littered throughout. While it was difficult locating each block, the effort was rewarded with superb bouldering. The climbing is what I imagine Font to be like, a combination of aggression and subtlety. The highlight of the day was the FA (hopefully) of Mr. Personality.