Saturday Syke Video

Spiritual Marriage

Training: 1) Hangboard
Grip - Open
Arms - 1
Hold - Over Easy Side, Top Row, Inside
Set
1 - 7s, +5
2 - 7s, +5
3 - 7s, +5

Grip - 1/2 Crimp
Arms - 1
Hold - Over Easy Side, Middle Row, Outside
Set
1 - 7s, -32.5
2 - 7s, -32.5
3 - 11s, -32.5

Grip - Full Crimp
Arms - 1
Hold - Over Easy Side, Middle Row, Outside
Set
1 - 7s, -25
2 - 7s, -25
3 - 9s, -25

Notes: Busy Boy. Second Hangboard Session. Added the watch. Making Progress.

Climbing Gym Cute

Training: 1) Hangboard
Grip - Open
Arms - 1
Hold - Over Easy Side, Top Row, Inside
Set
1 - *s, +0
2 - *s, +0
3 - *s, +0

Grip - 1/2 Crimp
Arms - 1
Hold - Over Easy Side, Middle Row, Outside
Set
1 - *s, w/ assistance
2 - *s, w/ assistance
3 - *s, w/ assistance

Grip - Full Crimp
Arms - 2
Hold - Over Easy Side, Lowest Row, Outside
Set
1 - *s, +0
2 - *s, +0
3 - *s, +0

Notes: Back to the hangboard. I'm looking forward to getting strong for the fall season. New strength = sending new projects. I never add the watch during the first session of any new cycle. Going through the motions provides plenty of stimulus. Think optimal, not maximal.

My plan is loosely baised on Elemental Fitness and Wendler's 3/2/1. It is simple, three most imporant grips, three sets, and add weight every session. I rest 10:1, 70s for 7s of effort. You get stronger from resting after appropriate stress.

Return to Poudre Canyon, CO

I exploited the break in the summer heat with a quick trip up to boulders across from the Big Bend Campground in the Poudre Canyon, CO. I was planning to repeat the published problems but I got sidetracked by other blocs (as always). This sector looks to have at least 30 problems in it.

Beware all who enter the Critical Mass Cave

The line to the left of the last one in the video is hard, high, and scary.

Time to train!

Saturday Syke Video

Chasing Two Rabbits

1) Technique, .5 block

2) Threshold Bouldering, .5 block

3) Circuit

4) ARC

Successful t-nut and wood chip test

Wood chips are a great tool to improve footwork.

Lord knows I need it.

Notes: #1 - Work on big moves between good holds. It is most important just to get to the holds, in that style of climbing. I make sure I can cover the distance, often at the expense of efficiency. I broke down some big moves and worked on efficiency. #2 - I've been experimenting with some pragmatic mental training. I tested it by trying to match my performance from yesterday, which I did. Another tool in the toolbox. I'm laying the foundation for great fall season. #4 - All Adv Problems right to left in the gym, 10 problems in 12:24 #5 I ARC to cool down until my left knee got funky.

Free Range Human

1) Technique

2) Threshold Bouldering

3) Bouldering

rest 4 hours

4) DT

5) RI

I love climbing movement and can't get enough of these videos.

Notes: 2-a-days can only mean one thing - Full Pre-season #2 Even my Threshold Bouldering follows a progression. My relationship with my current indoor project - Individual moves with open feet (Day 1). Link moves in groups of 2s & 3s (Day 2). Individual moves with tracking feet (Day 3) #3 Sent project problem after 3 days of work (with open feet). #4 Stepped up by swapping out a short easy Adv for harder longer Adv. Adds up over 4 repeats in 20 minutes. #5 Not much in the tank but worked on recovery.