Under The Radar

Winter's death grip has finally broke. I have been getting outside more and training less (Remember - The goal is to keep the goal the goal). Its still a little chilly to dangle on a rope but its okay to pebble wrestle. I've been climbing at a semi-secret (and really good) area. I'm not letting the cat out of the bag so I'm under the radar for a little while.

Disciples of Gill : A Review

It was with short notice on a cold, windy evening in classroom that Disciples of Gill was screened, not the best timing or venue for a climbing film. Pat Ament warmed-up and welcomed the audience with his anecdote about meeting John Gill for the first time, worth the price of admission alone. He is natural story teller which translates to the film.

The film blends several story lines together, effortlessly and with love. The images speak for themselves without the tyranny of narration. Rock climbing, at one level, is merely moving over stone. Pat Ament captures that element perfectly. Even though the film focuses on specific climbers at a specific points in time, it becomes transcendent during the course of the film. Elements of modern dance are undeniable. Gill was ahead of his time both quantitatively, harder grades, and qualitatively, focus on bouldering and dynamic movement. There is something missing in stories and still images. It can only be captured through "Video Evidence."

I'm a disciple of John Gill, exploring natural terrain and human movement. But I'm also a disciple of Royal Robins, intensely competitive and with a desire to test myself, and a disciple of Pat Ament, a combination of precision and artistry. Despite the hype surrounding European climbing culture, I'm still American climber at my core. This film captures some of my roots.

There is a plethora of free videos that motivate me to climb. This film motivates me to be a climber.

You Can Make Him Like You

Training: 1) Hoover Feet, 15 minutes

2) Dyno Practice, 10 minutes

3) Open Hand, Medium Edge (1-arm w/assistance)
7s, 7s, 10s

4) 1/2 Crimp, Small Rung (1-arm w/assistance)
7s, 7s, 12s+

5) Full Crimp, Small Rung (1-arm w/assistance)
7s, 7s, 10s

6) 1-arm pull-ups
7 singles with each arm

7) Foot Fly Aways (supersetted with prehab)

8) More Prehab & Abs

Proper Hangboarding

Notes: 2nd day on - Trying to productively trash myself. I forgot my stopwatch so I couldn't do Rhythm Intervals, my subconscious works in funny ways. I hit PRs on all grips types, time to increase load. #6 - I wanted to see how many 1-arms I could do in a session. They got easier, greasing-the-groove, and then they got hard.

"The Disciples of Gill" Screening, Jan 27th in Fort Collins

"The Disciples of Gill"

a film by Pat Ament

Wednesday, January 27th, 7pm

Colorado State University, Clark A-wing Building, Room 103

I'm syked about this film, a review.

The screening is 10ft from my office!

Training Under the Sword of Damocles

Warm-up: 1) Flash, Easy Problems, 20 minutes

2) Mobility Drills

Training: 1) Flash, Hard Problems, 30 minutes

2) Work, Harder Problems, 90 minutes

Notes: Back to the basics, just bouldering. A good volume. with a focus on harder problems.

Nominative Determinism

Training: 1) Foot Hoover Drill, 15 minutes

2) Dyno Practice, 15 minutes

3) 6 rounds
Flash V6
rest 1:00

4) 2 rounds
Redpoint 11c
rest 30s
Redpoint 11c
rest 5:00

Notes: Trying to get better at dynos to up my outside climbing game (weird). I was pressed for time so I compressed the workout by incorporating the stopwatch. It added a nice mental component. I had to preview during the 1:00 minute rest block, while trying to recover. Things got hard real fast. I was sweaty and beat at the end.

The Hatchery & The Bog, Pre-Season Tune-up

Problems Sent:

Hatchery Boulder

#1, V3, Flash (rad, i was all up in the tree)

#2, V5, Flash (best problem of the day, more mellow than it looks)

#3, V1, Flash (not awkward, just press)

#4, V3, Flash (good warm-up)

#5, V3, Flash (from the stand, hard/horrible from the sit)

Bog Boulder

Warmup I, V2, Flash (snow mantle)

Mr Smackmag, V5, Flash, (total bastardization by crimping the slopers and gill start, would be v7 if done proper)

Unknown, V4/5, Flash (between Beachside Face and Slopey Thrutch, head high crimps move right and mantle, the rest was loose, dirty, and scary)

Simple, V6, 3rd go (would've flash but had wet cold shoes - NEGATIVE, pretty good, not great)

Total Points: 32.5 points, good day considering the amount of snow and cold

Problems Tried: Iron Helix, v6, 1 try (i numbed off on the last move, then got the screaming barflies - NEGATIVE)

Remember - Climbing is suppose to be fun.

This ascent was fun, expect for the last couple of moves.

Notes: My first pilgrimage to upper Poudre Canyon. I was blown away by the amount of rock. (I put myself on restriction, only guidebook problems. However, I did scout some potential sport climbing.) There was some amazing problems on quality rock.

I feel that I can flash most V6s, other than today's high suck factor. I'm building a base towards higher flashs. From my experience, you can pick a grade to redpoint but flash/onsight grades need to be built up. I need to climb outside more so I can more productively apply my strength, a good position to be in. I did notice that I was hesitant on dynamic problems. I don't know if it was a lack of a spotter or a self-limiting belief.

Overall, pretty good for a 1/3 day, early in the season. The spring season looks promising, just waiting for the snow to melt and warmer temps.