Video Evidence

Green Chili & Pockets Tour, Stop 1: Taos, NM

I set off to enjoy the last bit of the spring season by touring the Southwest.

This sign begs many questions.

The first stop is a personal favorite - Taos, NM.

Do You Hear the Taos Hum?

After a burrito smoothed in green chili sauce, Alex and I heading out to the pilar boulders. It is a nice volcanic set of boulders adjunct to the Rio Grande. I was running around warming up and flashed Surf Report, V3. I noticed a logical sit-down start. It starts lower on the same fin featured. A off balance start move leads to tension match and then a fun throw out to the stand start. I'm probably not the first to do it, but it is not listed anywhere. I also noticed a slab then a sit down start. After I cleaned an inch of lichen off my chosen foot holds, it went. It was easy but exciting, a possibility to windmill off and roll down and off an adjunct boulder.

Surf Report SDS, Green, V6 - sds on fin, join Surf Report
"Charlie Don't Surf", Pink, V4 - sds on jug, bust right to arete, keep it together on the slab
Project - sds on CDS jug, bust left into Surf Report, contrived

I moved over to the C3P0 boulder. Last I was there I noticed some logical sit-down starts to the moderates. While I was there I got a better sense of the boulder and realized that guidebook is unclear/completely wrong. What I thought was C3P0 (V10) is actually Cousin Chewie (V7/8). I guess I haven't climbed a v10. Hopefully this picture clears things up.

Cousin Chewie, Blue, V7/8 - sds traverse right around arete
C3P0, Pink, V10 - stand start on small holds with miserable feet
Green, Project - sds to V2 arete, one hard move wonder

One of the many harder projects, just feet from the road:

Green, Project - sds to arete, hard compression climbing

I decided to share on Mountain Project - link.

A Specialist At Everything

Training: 1) Technique, 1 block

2) 20-30 moves, rest as needed, 2 blocks

3) Gymnastics Smorgasbord, 1 block

Notes: I "test" myself outside. I try to climb everything and look for patterns in failures. I learn almost nothing from flashing (even though it is fun).

"Any sticking point is mental, technical or physical"
Dave Tate

Here are the aspects of my climbing I have the most room for improvement right now:

1. Aretes

Mental - hard to overpower, need to trust myself

Technical - outside aretes are way different from inside aretes

Physical - not a meaningful sticking point

2. Underclings

Mental - need to accept that they are awkward at first but better after moving into them

Technical - don't know when to turn it or how to shift my weight

Physical - not a meaningful sticking point

3. Lip Traverses

Mental - most are contrive, lowering my syke

Technical - avoid foot cutting, over rely on power

Physical - improve power endurance in the 10-15 move range

4. Continuous Steep

Mental - like to be in control which is hard when pumped

Technical - over rely on power, need to take time to find "tricks"

Physical - improve power endurance in the 10-15 move range

I finally sacked up and made it to CATS. I felt right at home, problems I couldn't do and obsessed locals who eschew outside climbing. They have premium holds (regardless of age) everywhere and all the proper angles (no roofs). My skin was jacked up so I stuck to endurance circuits. CATS is setup so you can traverse through the gym without touching the ground. Simply RAD. If I hit a move that didn't flow perfectly, I went back and repeated it until it did. At the end, I practiced back levers, kipping pull-ups, dip walking, and got on the trampoline (first time in 10 years!).

The gymnastic portion of CATS follows an optimal gym paradigm. Lots of classes at different levels. In addition, open gym time. Most CrossFit facilities have lots of classes at the same level with no open gym. CrossFit has the fun toys but doesn't like to share.

Dead Fit Bird

Training: 1) Route Doubles, 2 blocks

2) Density, 1 block

Notes: Lately, I have been intrigued by this interview with Adam Ondra and the book The Talent Code. Climbing is so complex, and foreign to conventional movement, that a massive amount of deep practice is the best path for improvement. Projecting problems limits the amount of climbing moves in a session, misses the "massive amount". Endless traversing or ARCing isn't challenging, misses the "deep practice". The goal is to get both, stay in the zone of proximal development. It requires constant self awareness and adjustment. I can tell a quality training session because I'm mentally and physically exhausted.

#1 - I flashed all the hardest routes in the gym. #2 - I sent everything left to right in the bouldering area. "Feeling Fit" is an understatement. I need to seek out better training options.

Video Evidence: A "Good Day" in 3 Sisters Park

Evergreen

After a work day in Denver, I made a triumphal return to 3 Sisters Park in Evergreen. (I gave Morrison the finger as I drove past). It was a beautiful cool day in the forest.

The "Hidden Fawn Trial" Never Disappoints

The sometimes sharp and lichen-covered granite of 3 Sisters Park

Another Classic Day on the Front Range

Problems Sent:
Spread, V1 (felt hard)
Brain Storm, V1, Flash (good)
Flow Stream, V2/3, Flash (contrived)
Hot Wax, V3, Flash (thanks for the glue)
Corner Service, V4, Flash (getting warmer as it cools off)
Texture This, V4, Flash (stacked pad start)
Pac Man, V7 (less than 30 min, full value)
The Pearl, V8 (3/4 tries, too sharp to be classic)

Durango, Day 3, Nails in the Coffin

I rarely circuit, but Durango provided the perfect place, closely packed quality problems. The added bonus was nice landings and good descriptions. Maximal climbing within minimal shredding. I pushed myself by climbing everything, aretes, traverses, from 1 move to 10 move problems. The day came to a point on Midnight Rider, a v3 slab. It was a perfect blend of mental (tired but in a flow), technical (trusting myself but uncertain), and physical (tired but engaged). The reason why I climb - for beautiful moments. No better time to leave Durango.

The Dakota Sandstone of Durango

So Featured

Location: Turtle Rocks

Problems Sent:

All Flashed -

Penny Candy, V1

Nickel & Dime, V1

My 2 Cents, V1

Cents Short of a Dime, V1

Golden Year, V1 (hard)

Unnamed, V1 (Northern Block, #2)

Unnamed, V1 (Northern Block, #3)

Couch Potato, V1 (interesting traverse)

Unnamed, V1 (West Block, HIGHBALL, dirty, deserves more love)

Afternoon Delight, V2

The Cave, V2 (steep, just make the moves)

Unnamed, V2 (Big East Block, highball in the wind)

Micro Huge, V2 (another traverse)

Unnamed, V2 (Eastern Block, interesting)

Unnamed, V3 (West Block, big pull > sharp pocket)

Dalla Bills, V3 (a little contrived)

Terrapin Traverse, V3 (great for traverse link-up)

Broadway Traverse, V3 (a must do)

Midnight Rider, V3 (OMG, hurt my hand on the slab)

The Wonder, V4 (i'm a one move climber)

Unnamed, V4 (Eastern Block, traverse on underclings!)

Fade Way, V4 (skipped holds by accident)

There's a Lesson Here, V4 (i flashed an arete!!!)

Total Points: 50