New Training Cycle!

Foundation/Exploration

Objective: Increase high end work capacity. Explore outside when possible.

Start Date: 01/04/10

End Date: ?

Goals:

1. a. Raise my climbing density benchmarks by 10%

b. Raise my "ABS score" (top 5 climbs in 3 hours) by 15%

2. a. Send 1 unpublished climb a week

b. Go on 1 roadtrip a month

Notes:

Chasing 2 rabbits!

I have the ability to climb easy & medium hard problems all day. I want to increase my ability to climb harder problems all day.

However, this winter is magical. It is warm & dry. I want to maximize that unique opportunity. I have many winter projects and areas that I want to develop. Using some techniques of fluid periodization that I have developed, I will try to accomplish these two tangential goals.

Goals for 2010 (Part I)

I realized that I change too much over the course of a year to plan effectively for that long (The devil's laughter is always in my ears). I'm trying something different - 6 months goals.

Here's what I'm committing to:

Growing
- Climb 50 days outside
- Visit 20 different climbing areas
- Send a confirmed V10
- Finish 2nd Stage of The Climbing Lab

Giving
- Create 1 training guide
- Publish 24 climbs

Longevity
- 2 Yoga Sessions per week (1 group/1 private)
- 4 Mobility WODs per week
- Stop dry-humping badgers

Annual Review - 2010 Goals

I spend the last week in December reviewing my previous year.

Here is the breakdown of my goals from the last year :

- "Travel. Visit 10 new (to me) climbing areas."
Killed it. I visited at least 12 new climbing areas: Red Feather, Groom Creek, 3 Sisters, Sinks Canyon (bouldering), Keystone, Sailing Hawk, Turtle Lake, Flagstaff, Owl Canyon, Pie Shop, Flatirons, Shelf Road.

- "Finish Projects"
Minor Fail. I couldn't round up enough rope partners. I finished a bunch of boulder projects.

- "Attempt Over-My-Head Projects"
Major Fail. I continued to remain in my safety zone of climbing things onsight/in-a-day.

- "Develop More"
Yes (Kinda). I only bolted one route because I focused my effort on new bouldering.

- "Redpoint Something I'm Proud Of"
This is my favorite climb of the year.

- "Body Composition"
Better but not ideal

- "Campus 1-5-8"
Nope. Focusing on sending outside cut into my campusing. I eked out 1-5-7.

Bonus – "Birthday Challenge"
I started training for one but lost the plot.

I didn't accomplish all my goals. If I had, I would be worried that I didn't aim high enough.

Off-Season

I schedule a week off from climbing every 6 months. This is the week.

The Luxury of Slowly Falling Apart

Training: 1) Threshold Bouldering

2) Hangboard

3) 5 rounds (all with 20lb vest):

10 pull-ups

15 Ab wheel roll out (from knees)

15 ring pull-ups

Phase I Complete

Operational Woody

Don't Be Afraid to Shave

Notes: #1 Still getting used to my wall. Set a simulation of my project. #2 Just Open Hand, still making linear progress #3 Smart Conditioning

Transitioning into the Fall Season. The plan is scout new places, clean potential projects, hangboard 1x or 2x week, and train weaknesses. The goal is to peak in 1 month.

Inter Alia

Training: 1) Campus, Throws, Medium Rungs
1-4-1 X 3

2) Campus, Throws, Small Rungs
1-4-1 X 2
1-4-1 X 2

3) Campus, Throws, Medium Rungs
1-4-1 X 3
1-4-1 X 3

4) Technique, Perfect Climbing, Adv Problems, 30 minutes

Notes: I'm trying to campus 2 x week, 72 hours between sessions. I'll back off at the first signs of injury. Switched it up again with Throws. I increased the volume of #4 by 10 minutes this session.

I abandoned my most recent training plan, focusing on Technique/Long Power Endurance. Training Long Power Endurance was awkward because of my current facilities. I'm rectifying that by building a home wall. It is slow going because I want it to be good. I was hoping for upcoming sport climbing trips to keep me syked. Those fell through. They are turning into bouldering trips. I'm in limbo right now. I'll continue to focus on technique and getting stronger. I'm trying to align my training with my goals, my limiters, current outside conditions, and training facilities.

"Endurance routes get easier.
Hard moves are always hard moves."

Jerry Moffat

A Scheduled Rest Period

Every couple of months I take a short period of scheduled rest. Either I take it or it takes me, usually in the form of an injury.

Now is the perfect time.

God Bless America

New Training Cycle

Objective: Planning

After the feedback from Justen, I'm entering a new mesocycle, Technique/Long Power Endurance. The last cycle, Performance/Power, was a success. I got objectively stronger, sent my hardest boulder problem, and did all the moves on my bolted project.

There are some physical constraints. CO turned into a version of the Hoth ice world, so performance days will be few and far between. In addition, I've to do some traveling. I don't exactly know where or when, but I won't have great access to crags or gyms. That is LIFE. That makes strength training not optimal, but strength is not my biggest limiter. The idea behind a microcycle is that I complete each session type (in any order) before starting over. I can drop the training if the weather gets good or I end up in Hueco.

Dates: Dec 3- Jan 10

Per microcycle
4 Climbing Technique
3 Climbing Power Endurance, Long Interval
2 Climbing Power Endurance, Medium Interval
1 Climbing Power Endurance, Short Interval
1 Climbing Strength
0 Climbing Power
0 Crosstraining
Gymnastics and cardio when appropriate

"Don't have any meetings about your web strategy (or training program). Just do stuff. First you have to fail, then you can improve."
Seth Godin

The Session, #1, "You climb like Rob Miller"

Objective: Assessment

Notes: I attend my first session of The Sessions with Justen Sjong. Like all good training programs, it started with an assessment. My assessment was consisted of bouldering, lead climbing, and top roping. I was a wreck from yesterday - I set a route, did a climbing photo shoot, and got on hard FA projects. Although I wasn't in a peak state, I still climbed in my style. I won't get into all the details, but I received quality feedback about my climbing. Justin has amazing visual perspicacity. Most of the session focused on improving my mental game. There was little discussion of specific technique improvement and no talk of strength improvement. In addition, I got some homework to improve my climbing. I'm looking forward to finally having a coach.

On a side note, he decided to skip GPP assessment just by looking at me. Then I told him a little about my CrossFit-type background, which promoted the "You climb like Rob Miller" comment. Rob Miller is a former CrossFit guy and a great climber. While I'm not in the same league, I have same style. It is a blessing and a curse for climbing. I'm skipping all GPP work and might not do any climbing specific strength work.

Random notes - 4 types of breath, down regulation, heels, see texture, dig in

It's All Jerks & Snatches

I'm proud to announce my new blog: It's All Jerks & Snatches.

I had a small epiphany and am perusing Olympic Weightlifting with increased vigor. Two of the best methods to commit to a course of action is competition, which I do as frequently as possible, and public declaration, one easy manifestation is a blog. In addition, Olympic Weightlifting, at best, has a small positive correlation with climbing performance and does not belong on a blog about increasing climbing performance.

I Got A Coach!!! (sorta)

I have mentioned several times I need a coach. I think you're an idiot if you are your own coach or do your own programming. It is always better getting an outside perspective and mentorship by someone more experienced. This I weekend I made steps toward rectifying my situation by seeking out Steve Betchel in Lander, WY.

It was rad to geek out with him about training. I got a lot of great ideas. I'm jumping right into the middle of one of his programs. That isn't ideal, but better than the crap I put together. It should set me be for a successful run at my 2009 Birthday Challenge, onsight 30 routes in a day.

If only I lived in Lander.

New Training Cycle & A Birthday Challenge

I'm back in CO and ready to start to a new training cycle. My previous Power/Strength cycle went well. I sent like a mad man bouldering and could easily pull all the moves during onsights (if I read them correctly). I know I should take some time off, but I'm very psyched. The focus of the new cycle is Power Endurance for some upcoming adventures.

I'm home for week and then off to Lander, WY for the International Climber's Festival. In addition to onsighting some rad limestone, I will be attending Climb Strong!

Then it's Birthday Challenge time. It is my big 3-0. After my CrossFit-centric Challenge last year, it is a climbing only Challenge this year. I'm onsighting 30 routes in a day. There was a suggestion, by Elijah, that I do off-widths only. I know B-day Challenges are about suffering, but I'm sticking to clip-ups. The tentative date is August 6 in Lander, WY. Mark your calenders.

This cycle will last 4 weeks. Given the focus is Power Endurance for onsighting, the session breakdown is: 3 strength (no power), 6 power endurance, 4 endurance, 5 performance, and 13 rest days. This is just guideline. It is usually thrown out the window the first week. The paucity of performance days is due to the following facts: it is hot, I don't want to drive 45+ minutes to climb, and I need to show up to work every once in a while.

One more thing, I'm competing in the State of America Games in Olympic Weightlifting on August 1. I'll be training Oly Lifting 3x a week. It is much easier to program and prepare for Olympic Weightlifting meet than climbing or a Birthday Challenge (That is odd because in the traditional sport conditioning world Oly lifting is one of the most difficult things in training and program design.)

As always, feedback is welcome.

The Next Cycle, Training For An Outdoor Gym

Photo courtesy of Mountain Project

I'm no longer injured and through the recovery process I have built up a good aerobic base in my forearms. I'm ready to start a new training cycle. The goal of the training cycle is a 4 day trip to Mount Charleston over Memorial Day weekend. I have never been there so I will focus on onsighting as many routes as possible. Mount Charleston is limestone, which means steep, big moves, slick feet, and pockets.

My general training principles:
- 4 climbing days per week (2 performance days & 2 training days) and 3 rest days
- Strength/Power is King
- Power Endurance is Queen.
- Minimal cross-training.

With those principles in mind, I here is my training schedule:

Week 1
M - Power Endurance at Mountain Athlete
T - Rest/Cross-training
W - Power Endurance at Mountain Athlete
Th - Endurance/Technique
F - Rest
Sa - Performance
Su - Power Endurance

Week 2
M - Rest
T - Performance/Power
W - Power Endurance
Th - Rest
F - Rest
Sa - Performance
Su - Rest

Week 3
M - Power Endurance at Mountain Athlete
T - Rest
W - Performance/Power
Th - Power Endurance
F - Rest
Sa - Performance
Su - Power Endurance

Week 4
M - Rest
T - Power Endurance
W - Endurance
Th - Rest
F - Rest
Sa - Start of Mount Charleston trip

The performance days will be outside, weather permitting. If I have partners, they will be sport climbing days. If I can't find partners, they will be bouldering in new areas to keep my onsight skills sharp. The power days will either be outside, working bouldering projects, or inside, campusing or threshold bouldering. The power endurance will be inside, e.g. intervals on the systems board, 4X4, or 6X8.

Thinking Ahead - Short-term

Objective : Planning

Notes : I just finished a Power/Bouldering Stamina cycle. I'm as ready as possible for the comp and sick of hard, long bouldering sessions in the climbing gym. My next cycle is Strength/Low-end Power Endurance. This cycle is specific to The Palace. I have been there enough times to get a feel for the type of routes. The routes are long but most of the climbing is relatively easy (for the grade) with a short crux sections (4-15 moves). If you can do the crux, you can send the route. Last weekend, I hatched a plan to send every route at The Palace before the end of the season (?). That would make for a very nice route pyramid topping out at 13a (?). It would keep me motivated with a series of short-term goals and carry me into the "real" sport climbing season.

Looking Forward

I spent a fair bit of 2008 behind the wheel. I plan to spend even more time traveling 2009.

I don't make New Years Resolutions. I make everyday resolutions. I look for limiters or weakness and attack them. However, I'm setting some goals for the new year :

- Climb in a foreign country. I climb all over the US but rarely leave its psychological safety. The plan is somewhere with limestone, preferably multipitch.

- Complete a climbing-based birthday challenge. My birthday is in August, the big 3-0. Plenty of time to train. You don't have to train for a challenge, but training increases your ability to suffer (thus making the challenge better).

Rank-ordered list of ideas :

1. 300 boulder points in a day (V1 = 1, V2 = 2 , ...)
2. 300 boulder problems in a day (any grade)
3. 30 routes in a day (11a minimum)

- Complete a route pyramid with 13a top, i.e. 4 X 12b, 3 X 12c, 2 X 12d, 1 X 13a.
Right now, I can send 12a 2nd go (most of the time). I have only done one 12b (I think it was soft).

- Complete a boulder pyramid with V10 top, i.e. 4 X V7, 3 X V8, 2 X V9, 1 X V10.
I have sent less than 5 V7s and 1 V8.

- Flash one V7
I have flashed 2 V6s

- Onsight one 12a
This is one is going to be hard, my best onsight is 11b. I really suck at onsighting. I get scared and my technique goes out the window.

No training goals. Sometimes I train for the sake of training, and I'm trying to stop. However, I will have training benchmarks for each of the goals.