Jan 1, 2010

Goals for 2010

I’m publicly announcing my 2010 goals, a key step for success. I made a quick look at my ability to accomplish my goals for 2009. I did okay, even though 2009 took a different turn than I expected. One thing I didn’t count on was getting bite by the developing bug. Another pleasant surprise is that I learned more about training for climbing during the last year than during the previous 6 years combined. Most of the learning took place through this blog. Additionally the books I have read, Espresso Lessons & 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (reviews in preparation). The invaluable conversations I have had with Rob Shaul, Timy Fairfield, Steve Bechtel, and Justin Sjong. Each one of them a guru of training for climbing in their own way. I’m planning some modest improvements for the blog, primarily a physical manifestation of The Climbing Lab.

Here is the official list:

- Travel. Visit 10 new (to me) climbing areas. That goal is attainable in one month on the Front Range.

- Finish Projects. I have a long list of unfinished projects that I have bolted. I want to finish them so other people can enjoy them.

- Attempt Over-My-Head Projects. The new NOCO Poudre Canyon Routes just came out. I want to attempt, not necessarily send, all 8 of the projects listed. (I have already redpointed one of the projects listed. More on that soon.)

- Develop More. I bolted and redpointed 10 climbs in 2009. I want to bolt (and redpoint) 15 new climbs in 2010.

- Redpoint Something I'm proud of. My goal for 2009 was to complete a redpoint pyramid, 10 redpoints. I redpointed 1 climb, Imaginary Fans in Sinks Canyon to the 3rd anchor. I’m dialing that goal way back. I want to redpoint one rad climb and don’t care what the grade is.

- Body Composition. I’m slowing transforming my body from CrossFit/Olympic Weightlifting optimal to climbing optimal. The primarily method has been through nutrition. I follow a paleo diet, super geeky paleo podcast. The secondary method is refraining from non-climbing training (hard for me). I’m not syked on the relatively subjective nature of this goal.

- Campus 1-5-8. That is the most I can do with the campusboard I have readily available. Currently, I can do 1-4-7 and 1-5-6. I’m steadily improving (without injury).

Bonus – I haven’t decided on a birthday challenge yet. I need to decide soon so I get an 8 month training run towards the goal. The current contenders are 31lb 1-arm pull-up (maybe 1 finger), 31 1-arm pull-ups, and a clapping handstand push-up. Suggestions are always welcome.