Previous Training Cycles


Objective: Climb 1 time per week

Start Date: 12/30/10

End Date: 01/04/10

Notes: Too Busy (in a best possible way)

Off Season

Objective: Complete Rest from Climbing, Do More Random Physical Activity

Start Date: 12/23/10

End Date: 12/30/10

Notes:Yes! Trapped myself in a cabin without a gym. "Forced" to snowshoe & hot tub!

Winter Season

Objective: Increase Power, Improve Technique, Develop New Climbs, Maintain Mobility/Health (rank ordered)

Start Date: 12/6/10

End Date: 12/18/10 (Fly to CA)

1. Set New Campus Benchmarks

2. a. Find Movement Deficiencies
b. Treat Movement Deficiencies

3. Send Leftover Projects

4. Create Sustainable Mobility Protocols

Status of Goals:
1.  a. Big Rungs, 1-2-6

2. a. Used an indoor competition as a diagnostic tool
 b.  Use the appropriate beta for my physiology more quickly, crossing moves, stepping one foot high with the other foot still on a hold, right leg heel hooks

3. a. Sent "Zombieland" (12/09/10, V6)
b. Sent "I Can't Fight Your War ..." (12/09/10 V7)
c. Sent "Better Luck in the Next Life" (12/?/10 V8/9)
d. Sent Unknown/Unnamed (12/?10 V7)

4. a. Created Shoulder Prehab Routine


Competition Preparation

Objective: Prepare for standard ABS local format. Top 5 problems in 3 hours, more points for flash ascent

Start Date: 11/26/10

End Date: 12/3/10

1. Improve indoor route reading skills
2. Improve indoor pinch ability
3. Improve stamina

Status of Goals:
1. Marginal Success. My skills were pretty good before and not really tested at the competition.
2. FAILED. 8 days is not long enough period of adaption.
3. Massive Success.  I know how to train stamina and my body responds quickly.

 8 days to refocus from roadtrip climbing to indoor competition climbing. Can't improve strength. Can tune-up. Keep training simple. 3 training days with complete rest day in between. Each day will be the same to promote adaptation.
Format -
1) Technique (undercling starts, big glassy feet, standard indoor jump endings)
2) Strength (pinches!!!, campusing, ticky tacky climbing )
3) Competition Simulation (know my level, indoor flashes)
4) Stamina (ability to climb hardish for 3 hours with near complete rest between attempts)
5) Prehab (stay healthy, repair damage from roadtrip)

Competition Report 

Winter Roadtrip
Objective: 1. Visit at least one new boulder area
2. Send 4 star lines
3. Onsight/flash something proud

Start Date: 11/15/10

End Date: 11/25/10


The Season

Objective: 1. Kill All Local Projects
2. Share with other people
3. Don't Get Hurt
4. Specific Project Orientated Training

Start Date: 10/01/10

End Date: 11/15/10 (Leaving on a roadtrip)

1. a. "Get Your Weight Up"
b. "ManSunKillLadyMoon"
c. "Neolithic Problem"
d. "Zen Garden
e. "Left of Merlin"
f. "IYFD, YAD"
g. "Coffee is Life"
h. "Do you want to get coffee or something?"
i. "Small Town Royalty"

2. a. Create rough draft blog posts
b. Create pdfs
c. Post more to Mountain Project

3. a. Throw a rope down everything tall than 2x head height
b. Ice my ankle 2x day, then fight for range of motion until healed
c. Yoga 3x week

Status of Goals:
1.a. Sent "Sotts Press" (9/24/10, V10)
b. Sent "ManSunKillLadyMoon" (10/3/10, V8/9) video evidence
c. Cleaned, done none of the moves!
d. Sent "Zen Garden" Right (Stand 10/7/10 V6), (Sit 10/11/10 V8)  video evidence
e. Cleaned, done none of the moves!
f. Didn't get around to it
g. Sent "Coffee is Life" (High Stand 10/7/10 V6) (Low Stand 10/11/10  V8) video evidence
h. Sent "Thanks for the Virulent Syphilis" (10/11/10 V9+) video evidence
i. Sent "Small Town Royalty" (11/11/10 V7) video evidence

2. a. Started Red Feather Blog

Notes: The time is now! Keep mission statement in mind - Grow & Give

Objective: 1. Find & Clean Projects
2. Treat Weaknesses
3. Don't Get Hurt

Start Date: 09/01/10

End Date: 9/30/10 or Once temps drop to consistent highs in the 70s

Goals:  1. a. "Merlin Project"
b. "Get Your Weight Up" Project
c. "ManSunKillLadyMoon" Project
d. "Neolithic Problem"
e. "Zen Garden" Project

2. a. 10 minutes of mobility drills everyday
b. Rotator cuff exercises 2x a week

3. a. Throw a top rope down every first ascent/project
b. Rest a minimum of 3 days a week

Status of Goals: 
1. a. Cleaned and possible sequence
b. Sent! 09/24/10
c. Cleaned and possible sequence
d. Cleaned
e. Cleaned

2. a. Follow Mobility WOD website
b. Yeap. Didn't increase weight or reps. Did balance Left/Right asymmetry

3. a. Didn't do it once (and scared my spotter silly)
b. Yeap

Notes: Get out on cool days. Set up life for when everyday is a cool day. I did bang up my right ankle. Need to let it heal. I'm not good at handling injuries.

Objective: Floating in the ether (and enjoying it!)

Start Date: 07/20/10

End Date: 09/1/10

Objective: 1. Increase Climbing Power Endurance/Tolerance
2. Create base for Birthday Challenge
3. Maintain Climbing Strength

Start Date: 06/07/10

End Date: 07/19/10

Goals:  1. a. Traverse into Spiderman problem at CATS, 8 laps with 60s rest between laps
b. First 12a onsight
c. More Climbing Power Endurance/Tolerance benchmarks

2. a. 1-arm pull-up w/17 lbs
b. 2.5 1-arm pull-ups in a set
c. 27 kipping CTB pull-ups in a set
d. 25 dips in a set
e. 10s freestanding hand stand
f. 6 handstand steps against the wall

3. a. Flash a couple of V7s
b. Send another V9

Status of Goals: 
1. a. 5 laps with 2:00 rest (06/31/10)

b. Super close on "Give My Love to Rose" Wild Iris. Made ~10 micro mistakes before crux. Did crux correctly but didn't try hard enough when I needed to.

3. b. I climbed something hard, not in a guidebook. It could be V9.

Notes: Summer is here which stops local climbing. Weekly pilgrimages to high altitude climbing areas will keep me sane. Training for International Climbing Festival in Lander, WY, July 7. Birthday Challenge is tentatively scheduled for August 22.

Objective: Rest & Recovery for next cycle

Start Date: 06/02/10

End Date: 06/07/10

Objective: Performance

Start Date: 02/17/10

End Date: 05/31/10

1. Visit 10 new climbing areas
2. Flash V7
3. Send 10 V6s
4. Send 7 V7s
5. Send 5 V8s
6. Send 3 V9s
7. Send 1 V10

Status of Goals:
1. New climbing areas visited - 10 (Morrison, Flagstaff, Evergreen, 420s, Sinks Canyon Granite, Turtle Lake, Sailing Hawks, Priest Draw, Jemez Springs, Roadside Crag)

2 . V7s Flashed - 2 (Rasta Font Trainer, Green Monster,, The Bear)
Bonus: V8s Flashed - 2 (Sparkle, Beckoning the Cal)

3. V6s sent - 6 (Simple, Short Cubby Demon, Scarface, ?, Shambo Overhang, Something Wicked...)

4. V7s sent - 8 (?, Rasta Front Trainer, Green Monster, Scuba Steve, Crystal Corner sds, Right Graham Arete*, , The Bear, Pac Man)

5. V8s sent - 5 (?, Stickman..., Sparkle, Beckoning the Call, The Pearl,)

6. V9s  sent - 1 (Shoeless...)

7. V10s sent -

Notes: Minimal or no training. If I train, focus on very specific mental, technical, and physical weaknesses.  2-3 Yoga sessions per week.  2-3 long walks per week. Enjoy it.

PreSeason Preparation
June 4 - June 17

Build a foundation for preseason training.

Rest & Recovery
May 28 - June 3

No climbing. Long walks and stretching.

Operation Weekend Warrior
April 2 - May 27

General Objectives:
Primary - Climb outside 2x per week
Secondary - Train specific limiters 1-2x per week

Parameters: Working 40 hours per week. The weather is warming up.

Specific Objectives:
1. Establish new (to the world) 20 climbs
2. Climb at new (to me) sector every 2 weeks
3. 1 arm hang on benchmark sloper, +10 lbs, 3 sets of 7s each
4. Squat, Press, & Prehab 1x week

1. 04-08-12 Put up 3 new problems at Mt. Gretna, PA
04-19-12 Put up 2 new problems at Bushwhack Rocks, MD
04-10-12 Put up at least 1 new problem (possibly 3 more) at Levitation Boulders, MD
05-02-12 Put up 6 new(?) problems at Levitation Boulders, MD
05-06-12 Put up 2-6 new problems at Levitation Boulders, MD
05-12-12 Put up 4 new problems at Coopers Rock State Park, WV

2. 04-16-12 Climbed at Seneca, WV
04-30-12 Climbed at  Levitation Boulders, MD

3. Building a foundation of hangs and refining 1arm hang technique. Not timed.
Building capacity on other slopers to test on benchmark.

4. Week 1 = success
Week 2 = fail
Week 3 = success
Week 4 = success
Week 5 = success
Week 6 = success
Week 7 = success

The Bouldering Season
Feb 13 - April 2

General Objectives:
Primary - Develop local climbing whenever possible.
Secondary - Send local classics

Parameters: The weather permits optimal outside climbing ~4x per week. Train indoors no more than x1 per week.

Specific Objectives:
1. Establish new (to the world) climbs (40+ all grades, 1 double digit boulder)
2. Climb at new (to me) sector every 2 weeks
3. Prehab 1x week

1. 02-22-12 Put up 7 new problems & worked possible V10-11
? put 5 new problems at Bushwhack, MD
? put 2 new problems at Bushwahck, MD
03-14-12 put up 5 new problems at Great Falls National Park, MD
03-17-12 climbed two lines listed as projects in Mt. Gretna, PA
03-22-12 put up 6 new problems at Great Falls National Park, MD
03-23-12 climbed 6 problems at **********, DC (most likely not new)
03-02-12 put 4 new problems at Bushwhack, MD

2. 03-12-12 climbed at Rocks State Park, MD
03-17-12 climbed at Mt. Gretna, PA
03-23-12 climbed at **********, DC
03-31-12 climbed Ohiopyle, PA

3. 1st week = Success
2nd week = Success
3rd week = lost the plot because I started a new job!
4th week = back in the game
5th week = shoulder press, band work, & yoga (re-remembered: durability = strength + mobility)
6th week = Success

The Post Season (Really the Pre Season)
 Jan 1 - Feb 13 (No specific date, just until the Dead of Winter)

General Objectives:
Primary - Develop local climbing whenever possible.
Secondary - Build foundation for winter training cycle.

Parameters: The weather permits optimal outside climbing ~2x per week. I can train indoors ~2x per week.

Specific Objectives:
1. Establish new climbs (20+ all grades, 1 double digit boulder)
2. Climbing Technique blocks (General 1xWeek, Specific 2xWeek)
3. CIR (V7/8 x 10 in a session)
4. Bouldering Hourglass (V6x4, V7x3, V8x2, V9x1, V8x2, V7x3, V6x4 in a session)
5. Snatch (175lbs, bodyweight)
6. Clean & Jerk (215lbs, 1.25xbodyweight)
7. Increase core strength (90 ab wheel roll-outs from knee in 2 minutes)

1. Establish new climbs
     2 problems - 01-01-12
     1 problem  - 01-06-12
     7 problems - 01-24-12
     4 problems - 01-25-12
     3 problems - 01-28-12
     6 problems - 02-04-12
     * Lots more but I lost track of the specific dates
     total = 23
2. Climbing Technique blocks
     week 1 = success
      week 2 = success
      week 3 = success
      week 4 = success
      week 5 = success
      week 6 = success
3. CIR
     02-11-12 (18 move V5x10)
4. Bouldering Hourglass
     V5x1, V6x1, V7x1, V8x1, V7x2, V6x3, V5x4 - 01-10-12(All 1st go)
     V6x4, V7x3, V8x2, V9x0, V8x2, V7x3, V6x3 - 01-17-12(Too much failing)
5. Snatch
     115lb - 01-02-12
     135lb - 01-0?-12
     145lb - 01-20-12
6. Clean & Jerk
     185lb - 01-09-12
     195lb - 01-?-12 (clean only)
7.  Increase core strength
      found RKC planks (not quantifiable but still rad)