Jun 10, 2014

A new line at Rainbow, CA

The Lake Tahoe area of California has lifetimes of climbing to develop.

I'm working on becoming a proper soul so I can come back as a climber again to continue The Work.

May 21, 2014

Let the climbing speak for itself

Adam Ondra's tauromachy for another 9A onsight

We live in an incredible age. Not only are new climbing benchmarks are being established, we have previously unthinkable ability to witness them.

The filmmaker displayed taste by favoring long cuts of just climbing and the sounds of struggle as a soundtrack.

Climbing is best when it is simple - A person expressing human potential on the rock.

Apr 19, 2014

Dec 18, 2013

First Ascents on Martini Bar Boulder at Mammoth Bar near Auburn, CA

Mammoth Bar is a fine area with plenty of potential for new hard bouldering and moderate sport routes.

Check out MP.com for more information.

Dec 13, 2013

Recommended: Voodoo Band

You are already stretching and foam rolling (right?). But like all things, your body will adapt and you will enter the land of diminishing returns. Enter Voodoo Band flossing:

After training hard for a couple decades, I've picked up my fair share of injuries and scar tissue.  For example, I have an old meniscus tear from mountain biking that flairs up during long approaches and a current elbow tweak from a lock-off move on a project. Voodoo Band flossing helps maintain the fascia and my supple leopard status.

You can pick up a pair from Rogue Fitness.
 (The dirtbag option is cutting a bicycle inner tube in half.)

Mobility is underrated in climbing. Almost every time someone falls of the top of route they blame their fitness (or even worse, their strength). I rarely hear someone blame their inability to put their body in the right position in space. Lack of mobility is amplified in outdoor climbing, with the increased subtleties of real rock and when often sending comes down to the ability to maximally use rest positions. 

 Extreme mobility is one of Adam Ondra's many attributes that separates him from other climbers