Apr 19, 2014

Dec 18, 2013

First Ascents on Martini Bar Boulder at Mammoth Bar near Auburn, CA

Mammoth Bar is a fine area with plenty of potential for new hard bouldering and moderate sport routes.

Check out MP.com for more information.

Dec 13, 2013

Recommended: Voodoo Band

You are already stretching and foam rolling (right?). But like all things, your body will adapt and you will enter the land of diminishing returns. Enter Voodoo Band flossing:

After training hard for a couple decades, I've picked up my fair share of injuries and scar tissue.  For example, I have an old meniscus tear from mountain biking that flairs up during long approaches and a current elbow tweak from a lock-off move on a project. Voodoo Band flossing helps maintain the fascia and my supple leopard status.

You can pick up a pair from Rogue Fitness.
 (The dirtbag option is cutting a bicycle inner tube in half.)

Mobility is underrated in climbing. Almost every time someone falls of the top of route they blame their fitness (or even worse, their strength). I rarely hear someone blame their inability to put their body in the right position in space. Lack of mobility is amplified in outdoor climbing, with the increased subtleties of real rock and when often sending comes down to the ability to maximally use rest positions. 

 Extreme mobility is one of Adam Ondra's many attributes that separates him from other climbers

Dec 3, 2013

Bouldering at Auburn Cliffs, CA

Between new routing at Auburn Cliffs, I checked out the bouldering.

There is a very hard line between the lines shown above.

UPDATE: Check out the MP.com page. I'm continuing my mission to share my climbing experience with the world. Remember  - More climbing is better!

Nov 29, 2013

Christmas coming early

New equipment for The Climbing Lab

1. Lose weight
2. Increase mobility
3. Increase finger strength

Nov 16, 2013

Saturday Syke

The parallels between Malham Cove and Owl Tor are clear and plentiful.

There are places on Earth that are special. They are playgrounds for a self-selected few to "rise above."

Nov 9, 2013

Pulling a (minor) Caldwell

I broke Rule #1, aka Don't Get Injured. I won't be climbing tomorrow.

I'll be training tomorrow.