Physical Manifestation of The Climbing Lab
1st Stage Completed - Photo Evidence
Problem #1 - Hard to grade because it a 1-move wonder. If I had to guess, I would say V6/7. There is a sit down start that adds ~12 feet of dead horizontal climbing that should come in at V11/12.
Problem #2 - The direct start to another line. It suits my style, i.e., crimp & go. V8/9.
Problem #3 - The alternative start/link-up to another line, very nice movement and might be V9. The direct finish is harder.
Take the gully to the left of "Law of Physics" Crag until you are parallel with "Mind Shaft Cliff". Make a right, between another abandoned mine shaft and a large pile of rocks, and walk about 200ft. It is directly on the trail. If you hit Bachar Block, you have gone too far.
This video also displays the sometimes arbitrary nature of bouldering. "Coffee is Life" is immediately to the left of "Gluten is Death", using some later hands holds for foot holds. Currently, there are two stand starts. A high start left hand on crimp and right hand undercling (probably V6). A medium start starting on opposing sidepulls (probably V8). The sit down start is beyond on me. I have spent 2 days just looking for possible holds. I just don't see it. Hopefully, this video will inspire to someone to continue the evolution by adding a sit start.
I'm a lifer.
I figure I've about 10 years of hard climbing left, but I maximize each day.
Notes: I'm too busy right now to climb as much as I like, ideally 4 times a week. I'm getting ahead in work now so I have more free time when the temperatures are better. Keeping the goal the goal. However, I snuck out to Shelf Road for the first time. It is rad, chossy American limestone. I onsighted 6 routes in a 1/2 day (9, 10a, 10a/b, 10c/d, 11b, 11b). It was fun to have a Zero-Fall Day. The best excuses that I could come up for the low numbers with are: It is still the preseason, aka freaking hot, I haven't been clipping bolts, and it is 1/4 of full moon. If I'm going to be a better sport climber, I need get better excuses. #1 Falling in love with my woody (Don't Judge). Here is my "challenge" list. I list the holds, which have names, in order to make a challenge. No tape! The main problems are rank ordered by row. The columns represent different styles. Open - any feet. Thumbless- can't use my thumbs but still open feet. Static - use my thumbs and any foot holds, but no feet cutting. Foot Chip - wooden dowels only for feet. FC/TL/S - Foot chip, Thumbless, Static, aka Crankenfrank style. There is built-in progression, both vertically (harder problems) and horizontally (harder style). #2 Just Open Hand. Hit new benchmarks!! I spent the rest time wrapping my PVC pipe in athlete tape. I upgraded to PVC the last year (Thanks to Dan John advice), but now it is "better" thanks to Wenlder. KANI.
I'm super busy with work but was able to get away to Keystone, CO. I had the best intentions to relax and repeat problems. However, the diamonds in the rough looked better. I put up 5 problems in the main area. This one is the hardest and the best.