Oct 31, 2009
Oct 29, 2009
2) Campus, Ladder
Small Rungs, 1-3-5
Large Rungs, 1-4
2 finger pockets, biggest, 3x1
1/2 crimp, medium, 5x5
Oct 26, 2009
Unnamed, V0, Red (follow arete)
I found more trash than climbable rock
I got down to business and put up a couple of classics. While not hard, these problems have quality rock and movement.
Follow Your Bliss, V1/2, Blue (Stand start on jug, follow the left arete via slopers)
Joy Will Burn Out The Pain, V3/4, Green (Stand start, lieback the right arete, exit via crimps)
I spent the remainder of the abbreviated session cleaning and sussing out problems on the Hero Boulder
Monomyth, Project(Really Hard), Blue (Small holds and big moves)
Call To Adventure, Project(V4PG-13), Red (SDS, big moves between okay holds, awkward landing)
Oct 24, 2009
Training: 1) 1/2 crimp, lowest edge, +5lbs, 5s X3
2) Open hand, big sloper, 1 hand with assistance, 5s X3
Oct 23, 2009
Strictly Business, 10c, Onsight (cryptic and blocky)
Death & Disfigured, 11c, Redpoint (1st try today, 2 tries last winter, skipped bolt to send)
Routes Tried: Rapid Fire, 12c/d, 2 tries (BTB, 2 hang)
Alex matches the rock nicely
My path is in black.
My clipping stances are noted with a "P"
I got on Rapid Fire only because it was close. It is very much my style, crimpy boulder problems separated by rests. You can tell by the photos I clip every bolt (expect the first one) but climb a lot of the nearby Monstrosity. I use a different sequence from most people during the first crux. My left hand is on the "right hand" holds and my right hand is on crimps/microjugs out right. I should be able to send it the next session. I'm withholding a comment about the grade until I send.
Oct 17, 2009
Oct 16, 2009
(2) Ladder, Small Rungs, 1-4-5
(3) Doubles, Large Rungs, 1-4-7
rest 10 minutes
(4) Flash, problems, 20 minutes
(6) Press, 130, 3X5
rest 3 minutes between sets
2) 3 rounds
Corkscrew, 45, 10 reps
Hang open hand, lowest edge on Metolius Simulator*, 7-10s
* Metolius Simulator is hung on 35 degree wall. I'll explain in a future post.
Notes: Putting up FAs was the warm up for real climbing, i.e. campusing. Finally, the Babylonian Exile is over. The hangboard was moved, meaning I can campus without hitting my nuts. Time to get STRONG!! I still suck on pulling through, but my fingers feel strong.
Flashing was a mental challenge after the campusing took the most of the power juice. The rehab for my shoulder is almost done, #6. I finished the day with some abs and deadhangs.
Is, V1, Black (sds, lieback jugs, contrived but interesting)
Mask of Eternity, V2, Red (stand start on good left vertical edge, sds - undone)
Isn't, V2, Blue (sds matched on good edge, climb good edges)
Oct 12, 2009
Lake Tahoe, CA
Problems Sent: All the easy ones, none of the hard ones
However, I didn't send. I have a mental block concerning large dynamic moves.
Oct 11, 2009
The Hunk Boulder Unnamed, VB
Hero Roof, V0
Hero Boulder Unnamed Slab, V0
Green Wall, Unnamed #23, V0
Green Wall unnamed #24, V0
Boy and Girl, Unnamed #13, V1
Green Wall Arete, V1
The Hunk, V2 (super rad, techy start to "keep it together top")
Green Wall Center, V6 (I don't understand the movement on this problem, haven't tried it under good conditions)
Location: Sad Boulders
Problems Sent: A bunch, but I forgot (They couldn't have been that great)
Kyle waking up in Paradise
Right as our evening session at the Sads was starting, a couple of rangers rolled up. They immediately took an interest in me, and I complied with their requests. It turns that I matched the description of a suspect. The description was eerily similar to me, "5'11'', 175, blond hair with a mustache." He wasn't "dangerous" but they still wanted to talk to him. I was the first person into the canyon and was a little spooked. After that feeling faded, the session was pleasant romp among the choss.
Oct 10, 2009
Thunder, V3 (good one)
V3 (Had to fight for it, felt like a route)
V5 (left side, crimpy)
Kredulf V4 (couldn't figure the "easy" top out)
Arch Drude, V5 (bad beta from Ben & Dan on the flash attempt, NEGATIVE)
Days of Blunder, V5 (from the stand)
V4 (went dubs)
V5 (feel on last hard move twice, ran out of crimp juice)
V7 (I got the group high point, but the last move was a mystery)
Skye Dance , V6 (super rad but legs were too tired from the hike)
Spenser with a strong poodle spot
Kyle contemplating a cryptic Druid stone
Evan about to go dubs!
Notes: Went to Bishop for a friend's bachelor party. It is still early in the season so we headed up to the Druids Stones. I haven't been there for 3 years and forgot how great it is. We rolled deep with a posse of 9+ people and a couple of poodles.
The other strong climbers present have a vary different style from me. I tend to use momentum when I climb and don't like to project (especially when an area is 3 states away and 30+ minute hike). It was interesting (and a little frustrating) climbing with people that are static/lock-off monsters and immediately go into project mode on every climb. I still managed an okay day of climbing. The ticklist is selected highlights because I don't have the guidebook in-front of me.
Oct 7, 2009
9, 9+, 10, 10, 10+, 10+, 10+, 11, 11, 11, 11+, 11+, 11+,
2) Treadwall, 1:1, 15 minutes
Notes: A taper session for a short road trip, i.e. medium intensity, high volume day. I took one fall at the end of the last 11+.
This is my first experience with a treadwall. It is an interesting concept but I have yet to see the practical application. It is difficult/impossible to set the wall speed at a moderate pace, either it is very fast or very slow. It seems to require its own climbing technique. I didn't like the choice of climbing holds on this particular wall. There were no feet, I had a choice between the top of climbing hold bolts or sporadic large jugs. Whenever I try something new I train intuitively, the next time I'll do some long intervals.
Oct 5, 2009
Training: 1) Flash new problems 20 minutes
2) System board, 4-6 moves
Two finger, Lower Right
1/2 crimp, #2
3) 7 rounds
Adv (up), Rec (down), Adv (up)
rest 2:30 between rounds
Notes: I spent the morning working a hard project so I focused on slightly longer time duration during strength. #3 was a good combination of technical, mental, and physical training. I climbed the same Adv. twice for each round which meant I had to conserve engergy during the first lap. Conditioning always sucks.
The sds is v8/9 to a jug then v3/4 to the top.
Working the lower part
I haven't decided the style I want to do the ascent in.
"Within the same school. The idea was that we'd later combine both styles, unify the techniques. But still, we were too young. Too full of ignorant pride in our own succulent sorrow."
Oct 2, 2009
Hand Over Hand, 5.7, onsight (fun romp, one 5.7 move)
Routes Tried: Backbone Arete, 11c, 3/4 tries (chossy “friction test piece”)
Notes: Headed up to Lumpy Ridge with a friend from CA. It is was interesting. There is a longish approach to the rock (which added to my mild grumpiness driving from Fort Collins behind tourons). The granite on Batman Rock is not great. It is permanently flaky which makes smearing difficult. The grades are cheese, i.e. super soft, compared to Yos or J-tree.
I got on the hardest route on the rock, 11c. It happened to be friction, my arch nemesis. I did surprisingly well. I fell on the onsight but figured out the moves quickly. I fell on a handful of redpoint attempts. It was hard to get syked because of the choss factor. However, it is a big mental step. In the recent past, I would only TR similar climbs.
I'm happier sticking around FC, short drive, short walk, and better rock.