Jul 29, 2010

Spiritual Marriage

Training: 1) Hangboard
Grip - Open
Arms - 1
Hold - Over Easy Side, Top Row, Inside
1 - 7s, +5
2 - 7s, +5
3 - 7s, +5

Grip - 1/2 Crimp
Arms - 1
Hold - Over Easy Side, Middle Row, Outside
1 - 7s, -32.5
2 - 7s, -32.5
3 - 11s, -32.5

Grip - Full Crimp
Arms - 1
Hold - Over Easy Side, Middle Row, Outside
1 - 7s, -25
2 - 7s, -25
3 - 9s, -25

Notes: Busy Boy. Second Hangboard Session. Added the watch. Making Progress.

Jul 27, 2010

Climbing Gym Cute

Training: 1) Hangboard
Grip - Open
Arms - 1
Hold - Over Easy Side, Top Row, Inside
1 - *s, +0
2 - *s, +0
3 - *s, +0

Grip - 1/2 Crimp
Arms - 1
Hold - Over Easy Side, Middle Row, Outside
1 - *s, w/ assistance
2 - *s, w/ assistance
3 - *s, w/ assistance

Grip - Full Crimp
Arms - 2
Hold - Over Easy Side, Lowest Row, Outside
1 - *s, +0
2 - *s, +0
3 - *s, +0

Notes: Back to the hangboard. I'm looking forward to getting strong for the fall season. New strength = sending new projects. I never add the watch during the first session of any new cycle. Going through the motions provides plenty of stimulus. Think optimal, not maximal.

My plan is loosely baised on Elemental Fitness and Wendler's 3/2/1. It is simple, three most imporant grips, three sets, and add weight every session. I rest 10:1, 70s for 7s of effort. You get stronger from resting after appropriate stress.

Jul 25, 2010

Return to Poudre Canyon, CO

I exploited the break in the summer heat with a quick trip up to boulders across from the Big Bend Campground in the Poudre Canyon, CO. I was planning to repeat the published problems but I got sidetracked by other blocs (as always). This sector looks to have at least 30 problems in it.

Beware all who enter the Critical Mass Cave

The line to the left of the last one in the video is hard, high, and scary.

Time to train!

Jul 22, 2010

Chasing Two Rabbits

1) Technique, .5 block

2) Threshold Bouldering, .5 block

3) Circuit

4) ARC

Successful t-nut and wood chip test
Wood chips are a great tool to improve footwork.
Lord knows I need it.

Notes: #1 - Work on big moves between good holds. It is most important just to get to the holds, in that style of climbing. I make sure I can cover the distance, often at the expense of efficiency. I broke down some big moves and worked on efficiency. #2 - I've been experimenting with some pragmatic mental training. I tested it by trying to match my performance from yesterday, which I did. Another tool in the toolbox. I'm laying the foundation for great fall season. #4 - All Adv Problems right to left in the gym, 10 problems in 12:24 #5 I ARC to cool down until my left knee got funky.

Jul 21, 2010

Free Range Human

1) Technique

2) Threshold Bouldering

3) Bouldering

rest 4 hours

4) DT

5) RI

I love climbing movement and can't get enough of these videos.

Notes: 2-a-days can only mean one thing - Full Pre-season #2 Even my Threshold Bouldering follows a progression. My relationship with my current indoor project - Individual moves with open feet (Day 1). Link moves in groups of 2s & 3s (Day 2). Individual moves with tracking feet (Day 3) #3 Sent project problem after 3 days of work (with open feet). #4 Stepped up by swapping out a short easy Adv for harder longer Adv. Adds up over 4 repeats in 20 minutes. #5 Not much in the tank but worked on recovery.

Jul 19, 2010

Running East Looking For a Sunset

1) CC, Continuous Climbing

2) Threshold Bouldering

3) Bouldering

The Physical Manifestation of The Climbing Lab

Notes: #1 The goal of Continuous Climbing is to enter a flow state. Minimal thinking, maximal movement. The rest of the session was helped by this created mental state. #2 Worked limit level moves. Repeated them if they had slop I could remove. #3 Focused on sending my "Triple Crown", the three hardest problems in the gym. I fell off the last move of the last problem! Soon I'll need a new training benchmark. Wanted to repeat #1 but the gym was way too crowded by 4pm!

Jul 16, 2010

Near Life Experience

1) Threshold Bouldering

2) VIR

Notes: I'm getting bored following Elemental Fitness Programming. Partly, a function of my training facility (I'm working every day on improving that situation). Partly, I have fitness ADD (like most recovering CrossFitters). I went back to Self Coach Climbing programming. The blocks are typically longer. #1 Threshold Bouldering focuses on single hard moves (up to 3 moves in a row sometimes). Whereas, Bouldering focuses on sending. #2 I did all the "Advanced" problems right to left in the gym (~12). I wasn't sure if I could do them in a session. Next time I will repeat them for time (Damn! CrossFit rears it's head).

I'm looking forward to the Self Coach Climbing authors' new book.

And I wish I knew Italian.

Jul 14, 2010

Nothing Tastes As Good As Skinny Feels

Training: 1) Technique

2) Bouldering

Notes: 3rd day on but felt good. Modulating intensity and volume #1 - Perfect Practice. Repeat hardish problem 3x in row. Strive to be better each time. Fast and Smooth #2 - Worked and sent a boulder problem I set the day before. Not ideal but what I got (for now). I had to dig deep. Felt good to struggle and win.

Fighting Modern Life (with Mobility Drills)

I do a variation of Standard Catalyst Athletics Warm-up and Greg Amundson's Warmup everyday. I'm also influenced by Ida Portal's work. I call it "Non-linear Gynmastics." This is remedial but necessary - Basic Shoulder ROM and stabilization Routine

Please post your favorite moblity drills to comments.

Jul 13, 2010

Video Evidence

Objective evidence of my current ability from TMPHBITEU session.

Note to Self: I should record more training sessions.

Jul 12, 2010

Roadtrip Thoughts

I just got back from the International Climber's Festival in Lander, WY. It was rad. Lander is always rad. My climbing during the festival wasn't much to write about (so I won't).

However, I relearned some things about my climbing:

- It takes me about ~30m of climbing to get reacquainted with a different rock type.

- I climb better after warming up. Due to an odd set of circumstates, I tried to warm-up on a grade harder than my hardest redpoint. F'ed up.

- I'm getter better about hard clips but sometimes clips are in the difficult places. Sometimes equippers are idiots.

- Hard moves still limit me from sending, redpointing and onsighting. Power Endurance/Tolerance is moving to the backseat. Power and quality movement is back driving the training bus.

The inspiring Lloyd family

Jul 2, 2010

Non-Gaussian Errors in the Residuals

1) Technique, 1 block

2) Hard Bouldering, .5

3) DT, 1 block

Notes: Last hard day before taper. I feel good but a little beat up, right where I want to be. #1 Learn a trick for dynoing, especially for lateral ones. AIM FOR THE BACK OF THE HOLD. It is like shooting free-throws. Instead of aiming for lip, aim deep. #2 Hard bouldering was more of a break between other two. Nothing was enaging, aka everything was too easy. It is a blessing in disguise, forces me to focus on technique and tolerance. #3 20 minutes, 2 laps on 4 problems, 3 laps on 3 problems. All Adv. Settting blocked access to one of the problems. Training in commerical gyms is an exercise in futility.