Aug 30, 2013
Expert level performance is hallmarked by a lack of conscious awareness but the development of performance is hallmarked by deliberate, therefore conscious, awareness. That is one of the reasons why the best athletes make the subpar coaches.
The ability to name (e.g., "monkey's tail" and "the softball throw") helps with cognitive load of learning. The language of climbing movement is woefully underdeveloped, given climbing is 4-dimensional on constantly varying terrain using the entire body. Typical climbing conversions focus on static representations of hand holds (e.g., "grab the sidepull"). That is a primary reason I am drawn to video as a better representation of a climbing.
Aug 24, 2013
Aug 20, 2013
This is ain't John Long's boulders. This is Longs Drugstore's boulders. Buy yourself some meth precursors and head out to the woods behind the store to enjoy some chossy granite.
None of these climbs are listed in Bouldering Lake Tahoe North/West Shore Edition. They will be posted to mountainproject.com soon.
N 39 19.153
W 120 12.925
Aug 16, 2013
Aug 14, 2013
(Pro tip: Turn off the sound.)
I am obsessed with climbing movement, especially relative climbing movement. This video allows for direct comparison between 2 top sport climbers. Notice the difference in pacing and micro-adjustments on hand holds.
Update: Also look at the difference in flexibility and how that effects body position and movement.