Oct 31, 2010

Halloween Edition of River Blocs

Still knocking down river blocs

Bonus - I cleaned 3 additional lines that will be double digit problems. Real Projects!

Oct 28, 2010

Return to the River Blocs of Poudre Canyon

Burr. Yesterday was the coldest (and windiest) day of the season. Despite my recent fling with Red Feather, I still love Poudre Canyon. Baby, please take me back.

Ice Blocs are coming.
Are you ready?

I forgot my waders, so I couldn't get on my current projects (rookie mistake). I used the opportunity to check out a couple of new areas that are on my never-ending-exploration-list. By the end of the day, I put up 8 River Blocs.

Here are the best two -

Bonus - During the process, I found about 20 more projects.

Oct 25, 2010

Bachar's Block of Boulder Canyon, CO

I ended up in Boulder Canyon and decided to check out Bachar's Block. I wanted to climb "Stone Master" V11/Project/WTF. I climbed something but exactly sure what.

Here is a video my experience-

On the way to Bachar's Block, I found this gem -

Take the gully to the left of "Law of Physics" Crag until you are parallel with "Mind Shaft Cliff". Make a right, between another abandoned mine shaft and a large pile of rocks, and walk about 200ft. It is directly on the trail. If you hit Bachar Block, you have gone too far.

Oct 21, 2010

The Last 4 Days

In the last four days I have:

- Climbed the 3rd Flatiron (a 1000ft romp)
- Developed & Published a Limestone Bouldering Area
- Trained on a homewall (that I built)
- Bolted & Cleaned a 5.13 granite sport climb
- Worked a full-time job (that I love)

I love my life and the Front Range!

Jumping Levels!

Oct 19, 2010

Decorated Silence

Training: 1) Technique

2) Threshold Bouldering, 1/2 block

3) Hangboard, 1/2 block

Raw Power,
Always Classic

Notes: Deep in the season. The only problem is my work doesn't know it. Snuck in some training. #1 Climbed easy problems on my home wall three times. First time was normal. Second time was foot hoover. Third time was "decompress." I did some problems with foot-chip only feet. #2 Fun #3 Open hand only. 15s time domain. You can't push a river.

Guide to Owl Canyon, CO

Owl Canyon is located on Highway 287, approximately 7.8 miles north of the junction with Highway 14 (Ted's Place).

Park in the large pull-out, on the right, .3 miles past CO Rd 72 junction. Walk east on a closed road about 200ft until it is blocked by a barbwire fence. The boulders are located on the opposite side of the ditch to your right. The approach time is ~2 minutes.

The short approach and afternoon shade make it a nice option for an after-work session. The rock is limestone and should clean up with a little traffic.

1, V5 - start sitting, 1 move wonder
2, V0 - low angle
3, V1 - slopers, easier if you stem
4, V1/2 - big feet holds and small hand holds to start, small feet and big hand holds to finish
5, V0 -
6, V1 - wide fist crack or stem
7, V0 -
8, V0 - low angle

The rock band immediately above the boulders has the potential for a long traverse and high-ball problems.
The rock quality is questionable.

Oct 16, 2010

Saturday Syke Video

Lately, I have been exploring Red Feather, CO.
Here are some classics-

Oct 15, 2010

Killing The Monkey Brain

Training: 1) 80% Bouldering

Ben Moon,
Always Classic

Notes: Despite the name, this is still power training. Short periods of intense effort coupled with long rests. I'm a big fan of systematic progression. Today, I repeated about 15 problems to get warm-up. I begin by working training projects. When I started to see diminishing returns (i.e., longer rests to generate same effort), I moved to adding thumbless ascents to the list. My thumb likes to sneak into the action. It takes self-discipline to make sure each ascent was clean. Sometimes, I repeat it just to make sure. Finished up the session with foot chip climbing. I got a dose but left plenty in the tank for the weekend.

Oct 13, 2010

Using Video

Lately, I have been using video to speed up my climbing evolution. I have used it extensively in the past when Oly lifting (in lieu of adequate access to a quality coach). Video help me build a simulator of a recent project and paved the direct path to sendville. I use video to remember and refine beta.

"Coffee is Life" is a good case study.

Original Beta (starting at 1:07)

Refined Beta

This video also displays the sometimes arbitrary nature of bouldering. "Coffee is Life" is immediately to the left of "Gluten is Death", using some later hands holds for foot holds. Currently, there are two stand starts. A high start left hand on crimp and right hand undercling (probably V6). A medium start starting on opposing sidepulls (probably V8). The sit down start is beyond on me. I have spent 2 days just looking for possible holds. I just don't see it. Hopefully, this video will inspire to someone to continue the evolution by adding a sit start.

Oct 12, 2010

Jumping Levels

I sent 3 projects yesterday, "Zen Garden" Right Sit Start, "Coffee is Life", & "Do you want to get coffee or something?" My proposed grades are V8, V8, & V9+. It is a great feeling to be jumping levels.

The video that continues to inspire me to "jump levels"

Oct 9, 2010

I Got Now, I Don't Care Who Got Next

Training: 1) CIR, 1 block

2) VIR, 1 block

3) Press, 3x5, 125

4) Deadlift, 1x5, 275

5) 5 rounds
Swings, 60lbs, 'till lose pop
Push-ups, 'till pause
rest 1:00

I'm a lifer.
I figure I've about 10 years of hard climbing left, but I maximize each day.

Notes: I'm starting my season. Getting outside 4-5 times per week. Training 1 day per week. My two training goals are:

1) Supplement outside climbing
2) Maintain general Strength and Conditioning

This week I worked (and sent) many medium/hard first ascent climbs outside. There is always more figuring and cleaning than doing with first ascents. I tend to climb too tentatively and statically, since the problems are new and dirty. I flipped the coin for my indoor training by doing a high volume of familiar climbs. I worked on flowing and moving efficiently. #1 Homewall, repeated easier climbs #2 Commercial Gym, repeated & flashed climbs. Very crowded but kept moving. #3-5 My maintenance schedule is loosely based on this template. No need to make it complicated since I back at the novice level in the S&C world. I plan to push my numbers in a systematic and sustainable manner. The conditioning was "auto-regulated". Focused on quality of movement (instead of killing myself).

Satuday Syke Video

One Word - TACTICS!!

Oct 7, 2010

Looking for a sponsor...

I wore through this toothbrush in less than 2 weeks.

I officially announce - I'm looking for a toothbrush sponsor.

Oct 5, 2010

Worse Than Lyrca

This is my cleaning get-up.
I look like an extra for a post-apocalyptic film.

Where are the zombies?

Oct 2, 2010

Satuday Syke Video

I found a mini-Bishop, perfect patinaed granite with zero approach, about 1 hour from my house.
There is no evidence of any climbing development.

Time to "DO WORK!!!"