Bonus - I cleaned 3 additional lines that will be double digit problems. Real Projects!
Oct 31, 2010
Oct 28, 2010
I forgot my waders, so I couldn't get on my current projects (rookie mistake). I used the opportunity to check out a couple of new areas that are on my never-ending-exploration-list. By the end of the day, I put up 8 River Blocs.
Bonus - During the process, I found about 20 more projects.
Oct 25, 2010
On the way to Bachar's Block, I found this gem -
Take the gully to the left of "Law of Physics" Crag until you are parallel with "Mind Shaft Cliff". Make a right, between another abandoned mine shaft and a large pile of rocks, and walk about 200ft. It is directly on the trail. If you hit Bachar Block, you have gone too far.
Oct 21, 2010
- Climbed the 3rd Flatiron (a 1000ft romp)
- Developed & Published a Limestone Bouldering Area
- Trained on a homewall (that I built)
- Bolted & Cleaned a 5.13 granite sport climb
- Worked a full-time job (that I love)
Oct 19, 2010
2) Threshold Bouldering, 1/2 block
3) Hangboard, 1/2 block
Notes: Deep in the season. The only problem is my work doesn't know it. Snuck in some training. #1 Climbed easy problems on my home wall three times. First time was normal. Second time was foot hoover. Third time was "decompress." I did some problems with foot-chip only feet. #2 Fun #3 Open hand only. 15s time domain. You can't push a river.
Park in the large pull-out, on the right, .3 miles past CO Rd 72 junction. Walk east on a closed road about 200ft until it is blocked by a barbwire fence. The boulders are located on the opposite side of the ditch to your right. The approach time is ~2 minutes.
The short approach and afternoon shade make it a nice option for an after-work session. The rock is limestone and should clean up with a little traffic.
1, V5 - start sitting, 1 move wonder
2, V0 - low angle
3, V1 - slopers, easier if you stem
4, V1/2 - big feet holds and small hand holds to start, small feet and big hand holds to finish
5, V0 -
6, V1 - wide fist crack or stem
7, V0 -
8, V0 - low angle
The rock quality is questionable.
Oct 16, 2010
Oct 15, 2010
Oct 14, 2010
Oct 13, 2010
This video also displays the sometimes arbitrary nature of bouldering. "Coffee is Life" is immediately to the left of "Gluten is Death", using some later hands holds for foot holds. Currently, there are two stand starts. A high start left hand on crimp and right hand undercling (probably V6). A medium start starting on opposing sidepulls (probably V8). The sit down start is beyond on me. I have spent 2 days just looking for possible holds. I just don't see it. Hopefully, this video will inspire to someone to continue the evolution by adding a sit start.
Oct 12, 2010
Oct 9, 2010
2) VIR, 1 block
3) Press, 3x5, 125
4) Deadlift, 1x5, 275
5) 5 rounds
Swings, 60lbs, 'till lose pop
Push-ups, 'till pause
I'm a lifer.
I figure I've about 10 years of hard climbing left, but I maximize each day.
1) Supplement outside climbing
2) Maintain general Strength and Conditioning
This week I worked (and sent) many medium/hard first ascent climbs outside. There is always more figuring and cleaning than doing with first ascents. I tend to climb too tentatively and statically, since the problems are new and dirty. I flipped the coin for my indoor training by doing a high volume of familiar climbs. I worked on flowing and moving efficiently. #1 Homewall, repeated easier climbs #2 Commercial Gym, repeated & flashed climbs. Very crowded but kept moving. #3-5 My maintenance schedule is loosely based on this template. No need to make it complicated since I back at the novice level in the S&C world. I plan to push my numbers in a systematic and sustainable manner. The conditioning was "auto-regulated". Focused on quality of movement (instead of killing myself).