Jan 31, 2010
Jan 27, 2010
The film blends several story lines together, effortlessly and with love. The images speak for themselves without the tyranny of narration. Rock climbing, at one level, is merely moving over stone. Pat Ament captures that element perfectly. Even though the film focuses on specific climbers at a specific points in time, it becomes transcendent during the course of the film. Elements of modern dance are undeniable. Gill was ahead of his time both quantitatively, harder grades, and qualitatively, focus on bouldering and dynamic movement. There is something missing in stories and still images. It can only be captured through "Video Evidence."
I'm a disciple of John Gill, exploring natural terrain and human movement. But I'm also a disciple of Royal Robins, intensely competitive and with a desire to test myself, and a disciple of Pat Ament, a combination of precision and artistry. Despite the hype surrounding European climbing culture, I'm still American climber at my core. This film captures some of my roots.
Jan 26, 2010
2) Dyno Practice, 10 minutes
3) Open Hand, Medium Edge (1-arm w/assistance)
7s, 7s, 10s
4) 1/2 Crimp, Small Rung (1-arm w/assistance)
7s, 7s, 12s+
5) Full Crimp, Small Rung (1-arm w/assistance)
7s, 7s, 10s
6) 1-arm pull-ups
7 singles with each arm
7) Foot Fly Aways (supersetted with prehab)
8) More Prehab & Abs
Notes: 2nd day on - Trying to productively trash myself. I forgot my stopwatch so I couldn't do Rhythm Intervals, my subconscious works in funny ways. I hit PRs on all grips types, time to increase load. #6 - I wanted to see how many 1-arms I could do in a session. They got easier, greasing-the-groove, and then they got hard.
Jan 25, 2010
Jan 23, 2010
2) Dyno Practice, 15 minutes
3) 6 rounds
4) 2 rounds
Notes: Trying to get better at dynos to up my outside climbing game (weird). I was pressed for time so I compressed the workout by incorporating the stopwatch. It added a nice mental component. I had to preview during the 1:00 minute rest block, while trying to recover. Things got hard real fast. I was sweaty and beat at the end.
Jan 22, 2010
#1, V3, Flash (rad, i was all up in the tree)
#2, V5, Flash (best problem of the day, more mellow than it looks)
#3, V1, Flash (not awkward, just press)
#4, V3, Flash (good warm-up)
#5, V3, Flash (from the stand, hard/horrible from the sit)
Warmup I, V2, Flash (snow mantle)
Mr Smackmag, V5, Flash, (total bastardization by crimping the slopers and gill start, would be v7 if done proper)
Unknown, V4/5, Flash (between Beachside Face and Slopey Thrutch, head high crimps move right and mantle, the rest was loose, dirty, and scary)
Simple, V6, 3rd go (would've flash but had wet cold shoes - NEGATIVE, pretty good, not great)
Total Points: 32.5 points, good day considering the amount of snow and cold
Problems Tried: Iron Helix, v6, 1 try (i numbed off on the last move, then got the screaming barflies - NEGATIVE)
Remember - Climbing is suppose to be fun.
This ascent was fun, expect for the last couple of moves.
Notes: My first pilgrimage to upper Poudre Canyon. I was blown away by the amount of rock. (I put myself on restriction, only guidebook problems. However, I did scout some potential sport climbing.) There was some amazing problems on quality rock.
I feel that I can flash most V6s, other than today's high suck factor. I'm building a base towards higher flashs. From my experience, you can pick a grade to redpoint but flash/onsight grades need to be built up. I need to climb outside more so I can more productively apply my strength, a good position to be in. I did notice that I was hesitant on dynamic problems. I don't know if it was a lack of a spotter or a self-limiting belief.
Overall, pretty good for a 1/3 day, early in the season. The spring season looks promising, just waiting for the snow to melt and warmer temps.
Jan 20, 2010
5) Pull-ups, 1-Arm
Jan 18, 2010
West Side of the Lower Boulder
Middle Line, V1 - Stand start on blocky protrusion
Far Right Line, V1 - Stand start, stay on left side arete, contrived
Traverse, V0 - Traverse the lip, either way, contrived but best warm-up
I moved a little farther upstream to a river block I had my eye on for a long time, waiting for the snow to melt.
Far Right Line, V5 - Sds, big moves between okay holds, great line
Middle Line, V3 - Stand start to mantle
There are a couple of lines to the left, but there were still too wet to try. I spent time on the sds to the middle line. It is hard, the scarce holds face the wrong directions coupled with bad feet. If I wanted a super project, this is a contender.
Amazing Stick & Amazing Rock
Jan 16, 2010
2) Open Hand, Hangboard
Medium Edge, 1-arm with assistance
3) 1/2 Crimp, Systemboard
#1+2lbs, Pull Through
4) Pull-up, 1-arm
Left +8 lbs (fail), Right +5 lbs (fail)
5) Rhythm Intervals, 2 rounds
Level 2, Level 2.5
6) Various core & prehab
Notes: Outside is the d'oeuvre for the entree of training. Back to the usual, i.e. flashing everything. Stepping it up on #2 & #3. I can hang the medium edge on the Metolius Simulator 1-armed (w/o assistance) for a short bit. I add assistance, grabbing a light band with my other hand, to extend the time to ~7s. 2lbs is not much but still progress. I tried for a PR on 1-arm pull-ups. I only got halfway there.
Back to power endurance training. It sucks. Rhythm Intervals (5 rounds!! I just puked a little in my mouth) are the best thing I have found for Short Duration Power Endurance. I feel good, physically strong and mentally tough.
Alex joined me at the HGT Boulders. It was fun playing a sandbagging guide. Hence the "VOs don't usually start with a drop-knee" quote. While we were fooling around, I sent a rad compression sit down start, about V3, to the Black Line. I linked all the moves from the stand to the lip on the "easy project", about V6. It blanks out at the lip, around 12 ft, before 15 ft of "victory slab." It is not the hardest line but engaging and proud. Alex did a bit of housekeeping by cleaning up a conventional descent. In the past, it was faster and easier to use a fixed rope. The crag is looking downright civilized.
Jan 15, 2010
Location: The Spot Bouldering Gym, Boulder, CO
Training: Power Oriented Bouldering
Location: Movement Climbing + Fitness, Boulder, CO
Training: Endurance Oriented Routes
Notes: I'm floating in the ether, programming wise. I've made a solid short run at linear strength gains. I need to switch gears to prepare for the spring sport climbing season. I decided to try the Todd Skinner Workout during this transition period. I'm a sucker for trying different workouts. I scaled down the first day by skipping the dips and finger rolls. I did large volume of 11s and 12s on the second day, until I "hit the wall."
The hardest part of the program is a lack of facilities (it is hard to complain compared to Todd Skinner's time). The Spot doesn't have power orientated bouldering. I only did the first 5-10 moves (out of 15-20 complete moves). Movement was great for having lots of hard "trainers", consistent power endurance routes. I could follow this program in Boulder but I usually don't spend time in Boulder. I just happened to be there for work. I give the workout one of the biggest compliments I can- I felt productively trashed.
Jan 13, 2010
I practice the concept of “make the warm-up a workout”. It is excellent time to practice perfect climbing. It takes me about 20 minutes to warm-up. Multiplying that by 3-4 times a week, it adds up to hours of technique work in a year. In addition, it makes the warm-up more engaging. It is not merely something to endure but requires my complete presence. Lately I have been using it as opportunity for fall practice (Dave McLeod’s suggestion). I don’t mind falling, but I’m still a little freaked out taking intention falls.
While my fear of falling is manageable, I have debilitating fearing of “blowing a clip.” About 5 years ago, I decked after I blew a clip (my belayer was an idiot). I wasn’t seriously hurt but shaken to my core. I was pushing myself hard during today’s training and blew a clip. It wasn’t that not bad, all that happened is I took a medium size fall. I got back on the route and still cranked hard. I don’t want to practice “blowing a clip” but I’m glad I got a chance to recondition myself.
I hate sucking. I’m sucking hard at Sessions. Most of the training is Medium Length Power Endurance, PE. I’m training Short Length PE at a maintenance level and not training the other time domains. There are tangible mental improvements for pursuing this training, but none of my current goals have a significant PE component. My ego wants to include a PE to my training so I’m better prepared for Session, training for training. Overall, it feeling a lot like Oly training. For every 3 steps forward, there is 1 step backward. I’m getting better at the certain aspects but not 100% consistent.
I can’t rave enough about Movement routesetting. I have been a route setter for 5 years (mildly obsessed with sequences), and they still fool me. Even if I onsight a route successfully, I want to come back to a route because there is more to learn. That might one of the best compliments I can give to a routesetter’s route.
There are downsides. Midweek evenings are a zoo, making optimal training not possible. There was a queue for most climbs. There was idle speculation that Boulder couldn’t support 4 gyms. That is not true. It is hard to describe the omnipresent climbing culture in the Front Range. For my lifestyle, there is no better place in America.
Jan 11, 2010
2) Campus, Ladders, Large Rungs
3) Campus, Ladders, Medium Rungs
4) Flash, New Problems, 30 minutes
5) Open Hand, Hangboard
Flat Sloper, Switches
6) 1/2 Crimp, Systemboard
#1, Pull Through
7) Full Crimp *
Notes: I was looking forward to campusing, but my body thought otherwise. During the warm up set, the inside of my right elbow started to hurt. I was feeling very strong so I ignored it. I realized I was being an idiot and went back to bouldering. I think the injury's root is from getting gripped during a sketchy top-out early in the day. It felt better as the session went on.
I did 2x the number of laps on #6 than my usual. For the full crimp, I hung 1-arm on the smallest campus rung (with one finger on the other hand on the lowest rung for assistance). Ran out of time for assistance work and prehab.
This is what I found:
On the left, I ripped a giant crimp plate off, fell on my crashed, and started tobogganing upside-down head-first down a snow slope. NOT RAD.
Jan 10, 2010
Bonus: Maintenance Bouldering, 1 hour (~30 moves outside is not enough climbing for me)
Jan 9, 2010
Jan 7, 2010
2) Open Hand, System Board
Upper Left, Pull Through
3) 1/2 Crimp, System Board
#1, Pull Through
4) Open Hand, Hangboard
Flat Slopers, Switches
5) Pull-ups, 1-arm (w/assistance)
6) Front Lever, Straddle
Notes: Other life stressors reduced performance during this session, but I still got to the gym. I had to work the new problems, instead of my usual flashing. I found a movement weakness during this session and the last time outdoors. Traverses around outside corners. I don't have the proper schema. That will be an interesting one to train.
The rest of the session was basic climbing strength training. I can't wait for my homewall so I get more scientific with my training. I'm not great at 1-arms, simple exposure should improve my ability.
Jan 6, 2010
Jan 4, 2010
Notes: Focused on relaxing and climbing well, not just getting to the top, during the flashes. The strength numbers are the same as previous sessions, but I'm increasing the volume (per session and number of sessions). I modulate either volume or intensity but not both. That the chance of overtraining. In addition, you won't know what is working or not working.
Jan 3, 2010
Jan 1, 2010
- Finish Projects. I have a long list of unfinished projects that I have bolted. I want to finish them so other people can enjoy them.
- Develop More. I bolted and redpointed 10 climbs in 2009. I want to bolt (and redpoint) 15 new climbs in 2010.
- Campus 1-5-8. That is the most I can do with the campusboard I have readily available. Currently, I can do 1-4-7 and 1-5-6. I’m steadily improving (without injury).