Sep 30, 2009

Necklaces for Cleopatra

Objective: Climbing Strength, Climbing Power Endurance, Long Intervals

Training: 1) Flash new problems, 20 minutes

2) System Board, 1-2 moves, crimp, open hand, 45 minutes

3) 4 rounds
20-30 continuous moves
rest as needed between rounds

Notes: A quick tune up in the gym. I focused on the stimuli I haven't been getting outside, very short and long.

I have heard anecdotes about climbers focusing exclusively on sport climbing becoming weaker when returning to bouldering. Why not throw in one maximum effort session a week to stay strong? "Strength is King"

But remember "Power Endurance is Queen." I focused more on moving quickly than perfectly during #3 to simulate redpoint tactics. It was little awkward making some of the link ups because I wasn't familiar with the new boulder problems.

Sep 29, 2009

3 Sends

LOTD, Farmhouse Sector Revisited

I was premature when I stated "I made a clean sweep of all the projects" at LOTD. I forgot about the Farmhouse Sector.

I got warm by putting up a high ball, "The Mad and Macabre" V1

"The Mad and Macabre" follows the right arete.
There is potential for more highballs but they are unfortunately low-angle.

"Invisible Invaders" V4 - sds, arete to face

I sent "Hell Down in the Cellar" Left & Right from the stand.
The sds are awkward with a poor landing.

There is a large rock blocking an "extended sds".
I'll leave the awkward sds, poor landings, and "extended sds" for the climbers that like that sort of thing.

I was able to to send a couple of low starts on the boulder closest to the road, no pictures. I'm sure those problems have been done before. I tried pulling on them last spring, and they felt very hard. A summer of intelligent training made them feel piss easy.

Too Much Developing
I need a new brush.

"The Mad and Macabre", FA

Sep 28, 2009

LOTD, Call Me The Broom Man

Cuz I made a clean sweep of all the projects at Land of The Dead.
Someone flipped "The Fall Switch." The temps in NoCo are prefect.
Time to send.

No More Room In Hell (Blue), V4* - sds, jug to crimps (And by No More Room In Hell, I mean my crotch. There is a weird hand/foot match.)

Twitcher (Red), V5 - sds, more jug to crimpers action

Scooby Doo on Zombie Island, V6 -Cave around the corner. Low start, LH crimp & RH sidepull, climb blunt arete

Day of the Dead, V4 - sds, LH jug RH sidepull, climb up and right

I still had time at the end of the day to find another cave. I'm doing it again tomorrow.

* These grades are suggestions. I have been doing so much training and developing my internal grading calibration unit needs to be reset.

Sep 26, 2009

Saturday Syke Video

Phil & Elijah are to The Tor as Tommy is to El Cap
That makes me Cedar and I'm blowing The Tor up.

Sep 24, 2009

Video Evidence

Here is Alex on the First Ascent of "Chutes & Ladders" -

Sep 23, 2009

Godzilla Biastophilia

Objective: Climbing Stamina

Date: 9/22/09

Training: 1) Bouldering, 1.5 hours

2) System Board, 4-6 moves, Pockets & Big Moves, 30 minutes

Date: 9/23/09

Training: 1) Roped, 2 hours

Notes: The title says it all, the last two days were about self punishment. I'm taking a road trip and plan to climb to hard everyday. I need to get ready. Nothing fancy, just lots of hard climbing.

Sep 21, 2009

Non-repeatable Experiment with No Control

Training: 1) Technique, Heels down & movement initiation from ankle, 15 minutes

2) Miscellaneous Bouldering, 45 minutes

3) Technique, Heels down & movement initiation from ankle, 15 minutes

Notes: I'm starting to integrate the ideas from Timy Fairfield's bouldering clinic. We talked (and talked) about climbing on Saturday. He could have done a 4 hour clinic on system boarding, another one on campusing, and another on routesetting. He even invited me out to bolt stuff in NM (crazy Mt. Clark-style limestone).

I tried to climb in Timy's style during the miscellaneous bouldering. His style is reducing problems to their essessence. In contrast, to my typical style which is focused on economy of movement. I even applied this concept to flashing problems. It was fun to climb in a different style and out of my rut.

Sep 20, 2009

NOCO Climbing Contest, Kinda Not Sucking

Location: Inner Strength Gym

Problems Sent: Open 1 (flash), Open 2 (flash), Open 3 (2 falls), Open 4 (flash), Open 5 (2 falls)

Place: ? (I left early)

Problems Tried: Open 6 (6 falls), Open 7 (8 falls!!!)

A Flurry of Climbing Parents

The first crux was not dabbing on the start. GUTTER!!!
I found a different sequence which reduced the dab factor.
The second crux was making the jump from the world's worst pinch to a good pinch.

Notes: I sacked up and entered the Open Category. I did surprisingly well, a full scorecard. I have been able only to do 1 or 2 Open problems in previous contests. The current problems might have been soft but I'm taking it.

Overall, the comp was well run, and there was a full house. Onto my thing - routesetting. I give it a B+. There were no giveaways and only a couple of sandbags. There was a decent variety of moves but too vanilla. The one lame problem was a "jump start" without a foothold on the wall to kick off. That meant if you were tall it was a standing start. On the other hand, if you were short, i.e. a junior competitor, it was impossible. Most of the harder problem involved open hand holds and dynamic moves.

The jump between pinches shut me down on O6. I trained pinches, but that left hand pinch was far worse than anything I trained on. I got shut down on O7 because it ended in an all-points-off dyno. I tried it soooo many times but couldn't stick it. If I wanted to be an American competition climber, I would have to address these limiters. But I'm interested in the wide world of climbing, some of it involves the closed hand position.

Sep 17, 2009


Objective: Climbing Strength, Climbing Stamina

Training: 1) System board, 4-6 moves, sloper, wide pinch, narrow pinch, crimp, 45 minutes

2) 10 rounds
repeat Adv Problem
rest 15-30s

Notes: Final training session before comp. I worked my biggest indoor limiter, pinches. Still threw in some training for upcoming road trip. My climbing stamina, number of problems in a day, is always pretty good, but I decided to keep the tank full. Indoor redpoint competitions come down to smart tactics (beta steal & don't project), strength (send hard), and stamina (full scorecard).

Bonus: A great day of rock climbing is 3% learning, 97% failure and summarized with total fatigue. Must be what professional science feels like. - ScottSemple via Twitter

Sep 14, 2009

Data, Method, Narrative

Greg Glassman has many interesting ideas. This clip is about the role of data, method, and narrative in creating training programs.

Here is my data :
My method and narrative is outline on this blog.

There is a lack of data for many climbing training programs.

Think about that next time you pick a program.

Sep 13, 2009

Requiem for Methuselah

Objective: Climbing Technique, Climbing Power, Climbing Strength, Climbing Stamina

Session #1
Location - Boulder Canyon
1) Speed climb up, Down climb perfectly, 5.9 & 5.8 (TR)

Bonus: Climb 5.9 & 5.8 in the rain (in approach shoes)

Session #2
Location - The Spot
1) Campus, Small Rungs Upside down,
1-4-6 X 2
1-5 (f)

2) Campus, Medium Rungs Upside down,

3) System Board, Pinch Hang, Small & Large, 3X3s

4) Flash Boulder Problems, 30 minutes

The Crew crossing Boulder Creek

Retreating from roadside cragging

Climbing Training Session, 09/13/09

Notes: I don't train at the crags enough. Today was combo was babysitting new climbers and training. It was interesting switching gears from the accepted slop of speed climbing to the precision of down climbing.

I moved the training indoors, the Spot Gym, after a thunderstorm rolled in. The Spot has endurance orientated bouldering (weird I know). Great for warming up, not so great for training. I get bored around move 15-17 of a boulder problem. I hit the campusboard and system board hard. I focused on the upside down rungs, bad for the ego but should make me stronger. I attacked one of my indoor limiters, pinches, for the upcoming comp.

Sep 12, 2009

PMA Wall, Opertaion Warm-up Complete

@ and I went up Highway 14 to do some cragging. @ wasn't syked about crossing the Poudre (I have waders) so we started bolting a new wall, PMA. PMA is pseudo-random acronym, you can make up your definition. She picked the warm-up line, and I got to work bolting it. She sent it right after I put the bolts in and decided on the name "Chutes & Ladders".

Happy about bolting the warm-up.

By this time, Doug S. showed up and stole the 2nd ascent from me while I was bolting a harder line to the right.

Doug S. during the 2nd Ascent of "Chutes & Ladders" 10a

Sending "Free but Not Cheap" 11a

I'm interested in how climbs are named. "Chutes & Ladders" is self explanatory. "Free but Not Cheap" is named because it is the steepest line at the cliff and provides plenty of opportunities for freedom, i.e. feet cutting. You have pay for it with a hard crux move.

Doug picked out the next line at the far right end of the cliff. It looked like another warm-up but ended up being the hardest line thus far.

Bolting "Look Who They Let in the Backdoor" 11c

Attention to detail

Enjoying the steep jugs of PMA wall.

There is potential for 5-9 more lines, most should be much harder.

Sep 10, 2009

Get Syked/Get Better, Timy Fairfield Slideshow/Clinic, 09/18-09/19

Photo courtesy of Timy Fairfield

Friday September 18
Timy Fairfield presents "The Futurist", a slideshow
FREE for members, $5 for non-members
Miramont Lifestyle Fitness
1800 Heath Pkwy
Ft Collins, CO

Saturday September 19
Timy Fairfield Bouldering Movement Clinic
for times & pricing contact Miramont Lifestyle Fitness

I'll be there for both.

Sep 9, 2009

Fat Furs

Objective: Climbing Technique, Climbing Strength, Climbing Power Endurance, Long Intervals

Training: 1) Technique, Twisting Drop Knees, 10 minutes

2) Hangs, Mono, Medium Campus Rung

3) Campus, Two Finger, Large Campus Rung, 1-3-5

4) Rope Laps, 11+ (up) & 9 (down), 3.5 laps

Notes: I was a little tired but still trained at the Boulder Rock Club. I like my current training cycle because it is sustainable and adjustable. I moved to smaller incut holds for the Technique work. I spent most of the time teaching Alex how to campus properly. BRC has a great campusboard setup, and she dominated it. I did fool around with two finger campusing, felt pretty easy. I'm still in Lander training mode, i.e. monos, two fingers, and big moves. I need to recalibrate for the Front Range.

I picked a nice steep wall for #4. I was not allowed to recovery on the wall. I spent a good amount of time in the "Orange Zone". The "Orange Zone" is where my body tells me to stop and my mind tells my body to shut the hell up. I think that will be key for redpoint season.

Sep 8, 2009

Video Evidence

Training Session, 09/08/09, Part I from Thrice on Vimeo.

Training Session, 09/08/09, Part II from Thrice on Vimeo.

Pareto Efficiency

Objective: Climbing Technique, Climbing Strength, Climbing Power Endurance, Short Intervals

Warm-up: 1) Flash, Rec x 2, Int x 2 (Up & down)

2) Mobility Drills

Training: 1) Technique, Twisting drop knees, 10 minutes

2) Flash, Adv X 1, Adv X fail

3) System Board, crimp, #1 & 0
open hand, upper left, match

4) System Board, big vertical moves

5) Technique, Twisting Drop Knees, 10 minutes

6) Rhythm Intervals
Level 2 X 2

Training Meal

Notes: I'm peaking just in time for fall season and trying to get out as much as possible. This session is a sampler plate to keep me sharp. I fell on my 12b flash attempt last weekend during a twisting drop knee. I'm cycling in twisting drop knees technique work for the next 4 weeks. Today I just used big holds and open feet. I failed on the Adv Flash because it was a traverse with high feet on fat pinches. Not a big deal, I don't want to get better at those type of problems. I feel the strongest I have been on the system board. I reinforced the technique work with additional practice while fatigued. A nice PR on #6.

Sep 7, 2009

The Palace & Beyond, Hard Projects

The forecast wasn't good for today, hot & rainy. I took a rest day and found some potential new lines.

Bat Cave
There are 3 bolts that follow the obvious weakness. I don't know the name or grade. There might just be enough holds for line going out the right. It would be very hard.

Left side of the cave. Potential for moderate line.

Right side of cave. Potential for moderate line following the arete.

This arete is in the main area of The Palace. It should be a difficult line once its bolted.

The rain picked up and I decided to scout via car. I was found the cave/wall below about a mile from the Palace. It is much steeper with higher quality rock than The Palace.

The left side from below

The entire formation from above
I most interested in the line that starts in the cave and follows the overhanging arete.

I will have to get going, there is a strong rumor of an upcoming guidebook for this section of the Poudre.

The basics

I agree with the idea of keeping it basic -
Strength, Conditioning, & Mobility.

Sep 6, 2009

Wild Iris, I say Wild Irish

Routes Sent: Ryobi Jr, 10b, onsight (nearly fell before 1st bolt, easy tiger)
Osita, 11a, onsight (micro pockets crux)
Hot Tamale Baby, 11d, 2nd go (so close to onsight, felt piss easy during send)

Routes Tried: Charro, 12b, bail (not syked on SERIOUS mono move)
Ruby Shooter, 12b, 1 hang (almost FLASHED)

Wild Iris Main Wall

Alex & 5.10 Wall

Wild Iris locals

Notes: We went to Wild Iris on the second day. "Hot Tamale Baby" onsight attempt ended when I went to nonticked pocket first, silly mistake. I bailed on the 2nd bolt of "Charro". I love monos, but I don't want to jump off monos. I got a rare opportunity for a flash attempt on Ruby Shooter after watching several people on it. I fell at the second, slightly, easier crux when I didn't use a ticked jug. I'm starting to see a pattern. That crux revolves around a twisting drop knee. I need to get better at those.

Sep 5, 2009

Sinks Canyon, The Start of SENDtember

Session #1
Location: Shady Side Crag
Routes sent: Unknown, 10(?), onsight (left of Imagrinary Fans)
Unknown, 10(?), onsight (2nd on left of Imagrinary Fans, 1 hard move)
Imaginary Fans, 12a, 3rd go (3rd anchor, felt piss easy)

Coffee Break

Session #2
Routes sent: Duck Soup, 9, Onsight (really good, nice rewarm-up)
Second Hand Nova, 11a (brick hard start, kept it together)

Routes Tried: Bush Docter, 12b, 2 tries (BTB, 2 hang, should go quick if conditions are good)

11 bolts to the hard bit
Photo courtesy of Kitiara P.

Dangling at the end of the rope, going to have to get used to it.
It's Redpoint Season.
Photo courtesy of Sophie D.

Notes: @ and I rolled into Lander for Labor Day. We went to the Sinks, which is just starting to get good. I finished off "Imaginary Fans" with little effort. "Bush Doctor is fun but chipped to all hell. I suck on chipped routes, which is surprising consider the amount of gym climbing I do. The start is a bit grovelling to lame lateral slab dyno. then it get really good. I skipped a bolt during the crux and took a good size fall.

Sep 1, 2009

Factory Coil

Objective: Climbing Technique, Strength

Training: 1) Flash Routes, up to mid 12, 2.5 hours

2) Train various gymnastic movements - 1 arm pull up (assisted concentric), straddle front lever (4-5s), one legged deck squats, flat back tuck, strict MUs, L-sit scissors (3X10)

Notes: Awesome training session at BRC in Boulder. I tried to flash every 12 in the gym, I got most of the them. I felt strong with enough endurance to barely hang on, basically where I want to be as a sport climber. I did find a weakness (which gets me amped to destroy it) - big greasy macros. It stems from a lingering weakness with hard matches. Given the indoor comp looming, I got to get on it.

I'm still in the Novice stage with gymnastics training, easy gains by just doing it. I'll buckle down and create a program soon.

Bonus: This exactly how I feel. After I climb, I rather hear "you should've used the higher foot on the crux" than "Good job, bra." Getting to the top is not the only goal.