Jan 31, 2009

A Change Is As Good As A Rest

Objective : Performance

Routes Sent : Let down your hair - 10a/b, onsight (nice in-the-sun warm-up for a cold day)
Gossip Column - 11a, flash (felt easy expect one tenuous move)

Total Points : 8.5

Routes Tried : A Spot of Bother - 10d, bailed at 2nd bolt (I onsighted through the crux, only to have my hands go completely numb)
Rapid Fire - 12d/13a, 3 tries (1st - on TR and did all the moves, 2nd- fell at crux, 3rd - hands went completely numb)

Jason finding the beta intensive "no-hands" rest on Gossip Column.
Photo courtesy of Tina

Notes : 2nd trip to Palace with Jason. It was cold. My hands went completely numb twice. NEGATIVE!!! I'm switching my focus from onsighting to projecting. My first target is "Rapid Fire", a 8 bolt 12d/13a. It starts out with moderately sustained climbing to a distinctive crux between the 3rd and 4th, a 4-move CRIMPY boulder problem, to more moderately sustained climbing. Here is a good analogy for the route: Hang on a large campus rung for 1 minute then move immediately to small rungs and do 1-3-5, move back to large campus rung for 1 minute. Wait, that might be a good training idea!

It does not feel very hard. My guess is 12b/c, but I really don't have very much experience with grades higher than 12a. The difference in my perception and the consensus might be a result of the bolting. It is very close to an adjacent easier climb. I clip all bolts on "Rapid Fire", but I use some holds on the adjacent climb. You could contrive a harder climb by not using holds on the adjacent climb. I think eliminates are lame in bouldering and doubly lame in sport climbing. In my sport climbing book, if I clip all the bolts on a line I have sent the line (regardless of the holds used). I will be honest about the style and grade.

Jan 29, 2009

Better Technique = National Championship

The SCS National Championship was last weekend, and Momentum Video Magazine recently posted the highlight video. Even though the video was heavily edited for public entertainment, I was able to find technique differences which separated 2nd from 1st place.

Disclaimer : All the climbers in the finals are rad, super strong, and have great technique. This is a learning exercise, not a criticism.

The Finals Route started with a techy vertical section, which eliminated a couple of competitors, to all points dyno, which eliminated several competitors. The upper headwall separated the top competitors. Ethan Pringle, 3rd, fell a move below the one outlined below. There was not enough video to analyze his performance. However, there is enough video to breakdown the difference between 2nd place, Dave Graham, and 1st, Carlo Traversi.

Dave Graham, who is no slacker when it comes to onsighting, was less efficient throughout the headwall and made one critical mistake. Right before his fall, he grabbed the right hand hold and kept his right foot on the large foothold to make the move to the next bucket.

Overall, Carlo Traversi was much more efficient through out the headwall. Also, he made a better decision near the end. After he grabbed the right hand hold, he switched his feet on the large foothold to make the move to the next bucket. That one foot switch was the difference between 1st and 2nd place.

It is generally better to push with the left leg when reaching with the left arm. It allows the climber to turn-in more, keeping the center of gravity closer the wall. In addition, the right arm can remain straighter for longer. These factors transform the pull-up motion into a push-towards motion. The difference could be a National Chamionship!!

It Doesn’t Have To Be Fun To Be Fun

Objective : Climbing Strength

Warm-up : Circuit #1
Mobility Drills
Circuit #2

Training : 7-10 moves (no more, no less)
rest 5 minutes
repeat for 1.5 hours

Notes : I climbed okay but felt horrible. This workout is not fun. I starting get pumped after move 8. The longish rest enabled me to physical crank hard if my psych kept up. The workout might have been more targeted on system wall, but I think bouldering was better for engarm practice. It is the eternal debate between strength and technique. Here is my opinion right now : Strength always wins over technique. However, most people have very bad technique. I don’t think training one works against the other. If you have been climbing for a little while (more than 3 years), focus on getting stronger and keep polishing up technique. If you haven’t been climbing for very long, you will get stronger through technique practice.

I’m a huge fan of Self-Coached Climber. I have done all the drills in the book and try to focus on the better technique all the time. I feel that my technique is okay. Lately, I have been developing one aspect of my technique, feet cutting. I avoid feet cutting as much as possible through planning and maintaining tension. Sometimes, you have to cut your feet. Instead of controlling the swing by stopping it, I have become better at redirecting the swing towards the next foot. I call it the “Judo Kick.” As my feet start whipping around, I direct the proper foot to the next hold to check the swing. I’m far from mastering the technique. It has helped during redpoint attempts on boulder problems, but I have not mastered it enough to apply it during flash attempts. I wish my camera was working to better explain it.

Jan 28, 2009

Thank You, Sir! May I Have Another?

Objective : Climbing Stamina

Warm-up : Circuit #1

Training : Power Hour (but with enough rest to finish Open and Advanced problems)

Notes : I don't think the gym could physically hold more people. I like the idea of 2 short sessions but the after school/work crowd is too much. In preparation for the comp, I'm focusing on power/strength and the ability to climb moderately difficult (hard flash to 3 tries) problems for 3 hours. Remember you are what you do: If you spend most of your time falling after 2 moves then sitting on the ground for 5 minutes, you will get good at that. I want to be good at moving over plastic/rock.

As American As Herpes and Hotdogs

Objective : Climbing Power

Warm-up :(1) Circuit 1
Mobility Drills
Circuit 2

(2) Flash new Recreation and Intermediate problem
Fail on new Advanced and Open problem

Training (1) Big Rungs, ladders

(2) Medium Rungs, drops
6-1-5 X 2

(3) Small Rungs, ladders
1-4-6 X 3

(4) Big Rungs, matching
two fingers

Notes : Another pre-work session. These are the first problems in the gym that shut me down. They were set by someone with a very different style then me. One problem has big moves with small feet. The other problem has high bunchy feet. I tend to push a lot with my feet down low, trying to generate movement from my legs, hips, and back. A least now I have some projects and they will prepare me for different setting styles in the comp. I'm ramping campusing back up. Because of the pull-ups yesterday, I couldn't pull through very well. My fingers were fresh so I could catch everything I got near. I need to use fewer fingers or add wieght to the medium rungs. I started two finger campusing even though I'm preparing for the indoor comp. Indoor comps tend not to have pockets. If they do, they are soft for the grade/points. My hope is fingers strong in isolation, two, will be strong together, open hand.

Bonus :
Hierarchy of Campusing
1) hang and shrug - both hands on same rung and shrug, physical and mental preparation for campusing, especially important for female climbers

2) matching - hands start staggered, e.g. one hand on #2 and the other on #1, and move lower hand up to match upper hand, excellent and underutilized method for incorporating harder moves

3) ladders - both hands on same rung and move one hand up at a time, most people start and stay here, probably a mistake

4) drops - hands start staggered and drop upper hand to match lower hand, powerful and effective, easy to make incremental improvements

5) doubles - both hands on same rung and both hands move up at the same time, much harder but difficult to make incremental improvements

6) double drops - both hands on same rung and both hands move down at the same time, very difficult (maybe just for me) and high risk of injury

These are basics. Feel free to mix and match.

Jan 27, 2009

I am Brian's Wasted Time

Objective : ? (maybe Cross-training)

Warm-up : Crossfit warm-up X3

Training : (1) 21-15-9
Kettlebell snatch, 55lbs, left arm
Kettlebell snatch, 55lbs, right arm
Time : 8:24

(2) 1 RM, clean, 185 (easy), 205 (fail)

Notes : Went to the local CrossFit affiliate to check out another class. Everyone else was 10-20 minutes late for the class. The CFWU does nothing for me. It is not physically hard nor do I practice any technical skills. After I finished the workout, I sat around and did nothing for 7-9 minutes until everyone else finished their workouts. Then, I did my skill work and heavy lifting after I'm tired. I value my workouts and my workout time. Similar to my old CA afffliate, I don't get the same feeling from this Crossfit affiliate.

Jan 26, 2009

Welcome to the Jungle

Objective : Climbing Stamina

Warm-up : Circuit #1
Mobility Drills
Circuit #2

Training : (1) Up and down 3 new problems (flash)

(2) Work Cave problems, 15 minutes
Rest 10 minutes

(3) Up and down favorite problems, 15 minutes

(4) 3X10 strict CTB pull-ups

(5) 3 rounds
10, sit-ups, 45 lbs
5, shoulder scarecrow, 5X2

(6) 10 rounds
30s row
30s rest
each interval should be faster

Notes : A rare 3rd day on. It is cold and snowy in CO, back to training. Another crowded after work session. The local university is in full swing so the gym was extra crowded. I’m focusing on the indoor bouldering comp in 18 days. It was good practice climbing in front of crowds. I feel a little weird flashing other people’s projects. I feel doubly weird when I down-climb their projects. I’m far from the best climber in the gym. However, I was a below average climber in CA. I’m a well-above climber in this gym. I’m working on not being complacent. There are always stronger lions in the jungle.

Jan 25, 2009

The House Always Wins, Las Vegas Day 2

Objective : Performance

Routes Sent : A Man In Every Pot, 5.8+ (onsight, super cold)
Baseboy Direct, 11a (2nd go, 1st try today)
Gridlock, 11a (onsight, easy)
Desert Pickle, 5.11c (2nd go, very tired on onsight try)
Yaak Crack, 11c/d (3rd go, 1st try today)

Total Points : 29.5

Routes Tried : Fear and Loathing, 12a (BTB, super rad, new project)

No media. The Red Rocks sand hurt my camera.

Notes : Alex and I got an alpine sport climbing start, 7:30, only to get be greeted by wind and cold at Cannibal Crag. I was able to finish old business, Baseboy Direct. We retreated the warmth and security of The Gallery. I finished old business there, Yaak Crack. It was only 3/4 day because the weather got progressively worse, the strong winds was blowing rain 2 miles from the canyons to The Gallery. However, I was able to send Desert Pickle right before it started to HAIL! I'm done with Vegas for a little while.

Jan 24, 2009

Rolling the Dice, Las Vegas Day 1

Objective : Performance

Routes Sent : Sacred Undergarment Squeeze Job, 5.8 (onsight)
Totally Clips, 5.11a (2nd go)
Viagra Falls, 5.11d (onsight)
Here Kitty Kitty, 5.11b (onsight)

Total Points : 27

Routes Tried : Cujo, 5.11d (3 tries)

Alex and lots of rocks

Alex right before her nice 15'' whipper, the ups and downs of onsighting.

Notes : My girlfriend and I got rained out the first day. It allowed us to play tourist, Hover Dam, MGM lions, and a nice dinner. Today we got to play sport climber with perfect Vegas winter weather, 50 degree and partly cloudy. I punted on the onsight for Totally Chips, falling at the last hard move. Then came my best onsight ever : Viagra Falls, 11d. A really rad route, a boulder crux low to steep jugs. I'm now very close to my 2009 goal of 12a onsight (I bumped it from a flash goal). Then I got shut down on Cujo. Not my style, big moves on medium sized holds to a high crux boulder problem and with awkward clips (no extra charge).

Jan 20, 2009

Princes of the Palace

Objective : Performance

Routes Sent :
Rapunzel, Rapunzel, 10a (flash)
Citadel, 11b, (onsight, topped out the cliff, 14 bolts!!)

Routes Tried :
Monstrosity, 10b, 1 try, 1 hang (frigid, polished, pumpy warmup)
Death and Disfiguration, 11c, 3 tries (blocky choss = crazy kneebar beta, aka welcome to Colorado)
A Dazed Work, 11d, 3 tries (fell at boulder problem crux 3x, 14 bolts!!)

Ticklist :
Rapid Fire 12d/13a (can toprope from Monstroisty, my style = crimpy, thug climbing)
Small Fry 12b (short and good)
Sporting Green 12b (short and good)

Jason getting ready to battle the blocky choss. I'm 3 for 3 for finding new climbing partners named Jason.

This is the other side of the Poudre River. WOW! The main wall has multipitch sport, and the face in the sun is super steep.

Notes: Today was why I moved to CO. I climbed long, great climbs in the middle of winter. I cranked at the "Palace" located by the Poudre River. The rock is some odd type of gneiss which can be a little chossy but cleans up nice. Some of the climbs were 14 bolts/30m. Coming from CA, that is marathon climbing. The "Citadel" (11b) is my proudest onsight. I felt very close on everything but couldn't keep it together. I need at least two day of rest after climbing intervals, and I might drop all cross training. It is on!!!

Jan 18, 2009

Unicycle on a Slackline

Objective: Climbing Power Endurance

Warm-up : Circuit #1 (up and down all Recreation problems)
Mobility Drills
Circuit #2 ( up and down most Intermediate problems)

Training :
(1) Dyno practice, 15 minutes
(2) 4X8 (problems = A,A,I,A,I,I,I,I), rest 5 minutes between sets
rest 10
(3) 4X4 (problems= A,I,I,I), rest 5 minutes between sets
rest 30 minutes
(4) ARC, 15 minutes

Notes: After getting shut down in Vegas, I realized I suck at dynos. I think it is a mental issue. When you dyno you are out of control, and I like being in control. I spent the begining of the session practicing one of my weaknesses. I have good handle on the gym problems so I can start climbing intervals. The session was suppose to 6X8, but I had nothing in the tank/forearms by the 5 set. I changed the workout to finish with the fewer, easier problems and keep the long rest. That is why workouts are written on whiteboards. At least I have a training goal : a full 6X8. The Self-Coached Climber states "Whereas 4X4s effectively target the fitness level for short, hard routes, 6X8s are of lower intensity and longer duration and target fitness level required for on-sighting." I have plans to on-sight many sport climbs, locally on Tuesday and Vegas this weekend. I tried to ARC at the end : I HATE TRAVERSING IN THE GYM.

My Bitter Half

Objective : Strength

Warm-up : 4 rounds
400m, sprint
40 push-ups
Time : 9:46

Training : (1) 1 RM, deadlift, 365

(2) 5 rounds
doubles, dead-lift, 285
8, strict press, 35X2

Deadlift, 365
When I training for my Birthday Challenge last year, this was a warm-up weight. I'm trading my General Physical Preparation for Specific Physical Preparation. Oh yeah, those hex plates suck.

Notes: After the lengthy climbing session, I didn't have much left in the tank. I hit the basics hard : sprinting and lifting heavy stuff. I throw-in a little vertical and horizontal pressing to keep from becoming a hunchback. I had a bunch more planned, but I left instead of possibly hurting myself. In CrossFit world, that makes me a pansy. In my world, I'm focusing on my sport.

Jan 17, 2009

welcome to coloRADo

Objective : Performance

Boulders sent :
Standard V1 flash
Undercling to Crack V2 flash
Corner Lunge V2 flash
Meditation Traverse V2 flash
Meditation Roof V3 flash
Cat’s Eye face V3 flash
Mantel Rail V3 flash
Slappin the Hoe? V4 flash
Mr Spock V5 flash

Total Points : 25

Boulders tried :
Railer v6 (Contrived. Spent a lot of time on it. Why?)
Talent Scout Roof V7 (Contrived.)
Mammen Traverse v9 (see notes)

Beautiful Dakota Sandstone

Mammen Traverse, v9, fail

Notes : Went to Horsetooth Reservoir today, which is less than 10 minutes from house. Today's experience was the polar opposite of the Carter Lake day. It was sunny and warm. Mix that with great problems on great rock. RAD!!! I love flashing new problems. On the way back to the car at the end of the day, I saw the Mammen Traverse. It starts on "Undercling to Crack", traverses the lip to finish on Corner Lunge/Beached Whale. It is rated v9, and I almost put it down in 1 day! It took a little while to figure out my beta. I did all the moves but couldn't link it. There is one stopper move. My method is very core dependent, and I ran out of core juice. Finger strength was not an issue. Training helped so much. I had a little skin left and went to the gym after.

Jan 14, 2009


Objective : Climbing Power Endurance/Cross-Training

Training : (1) Power Hour, aka 1 hour of continuous bouldering

(2) 1-7-1 breathing ladder, thrusters, 95 lbs

(3) 7 rounds
30 on/ 30 off

(4) 5 rounds
triples, pull-ups, 75lbs
triples, jack knife front lever

(5) 5 rounds
10 one arm swing, right, 1 pood
10 one arm swing, left, 1 pood
10 two arm swing, 1 pood
rest 45s

(6) 3 rounds
10 back extension, 45 lbs
10 shoulder scarecrow

Notes : After work, I went back to the gym. It was a zoo. I couldn't even down climb during the Power Hour because some ripper would be on the start the problem. I'm only hitting the weight room 2x a week, one strength session and one power endurance session. The room starting spinning during the swings. Kinda of fun.

First Wood

Objective : Climbing Power

Warm-up : (1) Up and down 5 Recreation Problems

(2) flash 1 Intermediate (up and down), 2 Advanced

Training : (1) campus doubles on big rungs

(2) campus drops on meduim rungs

(3) campus throws on small rungs

Notes : AM session. It felt nice flashing the 3 new problems. Typical boulder-type setting : very few but good feet. The campus session was rad. A little more failing than I like to see, but it was the first session in which I pushed myself. I'm stopping my power cycle and focusing on power endurance for a little while. I booked tickets to Red Rocks. Redemption on Yak Crack!

Video Evidence

Here are the 3 flashes :

Jan 12, 2009

Sticking feathers up your butt doesn't make you a chicken

Objective : Climbing Technique/Stamina

Warm-up : Up and down climb all Recreation problems in a circuit

Training : (1) Up and down climb Intermediate and Advanced problems

(2) Work roof problems

(3) Work Open traverse
3 min on
3 min rest
3 rounds

Here are some highlights:

Things to improve :
Problem 1 - I started to "chicken wing" at the end.
Problem 2 - Maintain body tension better, less sagging. Since this is my 4th lap, I should be moving faster and with more confidence.
Problem 3 - I can't figure out how to avoid the foot cut on the last move.

Notes: I'm entering the ABS National Citizen's Competition next month. The format is redpoint 5 problems in 3 hours. This session was designed to build that stamina. It lasted about 2.5 hours, my typical climbing sessions are 1-1.5 hour. I'm entering the Open category for the first time. It should be interesting. I had some technical difficulties with the camera which resulted in climbing each problems 3-5 times. I tried to make subtle improvements in succesive lap. Some kid asked for my beta on an Advanced problem which required grabbing a pinch, crowning it with your other hand, and bumping off. The kid had the right body/feet position but just lacked the strength to hold the pinch. Later I saw him struggling on a power endurance oriented 5.12. It had no stopper moves, just continous pulling. He was dogging between 2nd and 3rd hold. It appeared to me the kid thought he was an Advance/5.12 climber. I'm all for getting on projects but sometimes you have to step down to build back up.

Jan 11, 2009

Playing with Purple Cobras

Objective : Climbing Power/Strength

Warm-up : Up and down climb all Recreation problems in a circuit

Training :
(1) campus, doubles on big rungs
1-4 (fail X 2)

(2) campus, throws on medium rungs
1-5-1 X 2

(3) epic fail on routes

(4) Cross training
a. Front Squat, 1 RM, 255

b. 5 rounds
Front Squat, triples, 216
13 strict pull-ups

c. 3 rounds
20 step-ups, 40lbs, 8 spacers high
20 elevated push ups

d. 5 rounds
mini leg blaster
10 weighted situps, 45 lbs

My Team

Notes : After the session at Carter Lake, I headed indoors to do some actual cranking. I sold my soul to a Globo Gym, i.e. signed a 1-year contract. This workout continues to build my campusing foundation. I moving towards "dropping". Reference :
One Of The Best Climbing Training Articles Ever Written
. Mountain Athlete suggests creating training benchmarks. My campus benchmarks are 1-4 double on big rungs, 7-1-7 drop on medium rungs, and 1-5-9 throw on small rungs. I attempted to climb routes after climbing outside and campusing because the gym routes are "easy." I was shredding very hard at that point. I throw in a standard Mountain Athlete strength workout at the end. They suggest climb training M-W-F and cross training T-Th for 1 hour each day. My life does not lend itself to that schedule. I'm experimenting with other schedules.

Carter Lake is like a convertible ... a let down

Carter Lake : damn pretty but the climbing is not rad

Notes : I got my first taste of CO rock on Sunday, and it was bittersweet. I went to Carter Lake, a local area. I spent most the day there and sent nothing. I don't remember the last day when I sent nothing. I climbed some rocks that aren't in the current guidebook, which was published before the bible. It was cold and windy for the first part of day which made warming-up a diminishing return function, shed layers to touch frigid rock and get colder. I don't climb well without an extended warm-up. The classics, Kahunna Roof and Super Chief, are rad, nice holds with good movement. The rest of the problems were less than awesome. Carter Lake is mostly sandstone conglomate which is doesn't lend itself to classic cranking. I would call it "pebbly poo" crushing. I will the give the place another try, but right now, I'm more siked on training inside.

Jan 9, 2009

Further Down The Rabbit Hole

Objective : Climbing Strength/Climbing Power Endurance

Warm-up : (1) 30 move Easy traverse
no rest
(2) a different 30 move Easy traverse

Training : (1) flash a lot of problems (about 2 hours)

(2) Work 10-15 move sections of Hard traverse
rest 3 min
5 rounds

(3) 30 move Medium traverse

(4) 30 move Easy traverse

In the background is 6''X15'' roof. I suck at roof climbing, and this is ample practice space.
In the foreground are campus boards that you use your feet on. I don't understand.

Notes : I checked out the other climbing gym in town. It is a little older, little smaller and climbing only. They rate their problems Easy, Medium, and Hard. I flashed all the medium problems and most of the Hard problems. I got cocky and was flashing them back-to-back until I fell. I sent that one 2nd go. At one point I tried to flash the hardest the problem in the gym, everyone freaked out because only one other person had done it. I did all the moves but couldn't link it (I applied my 5-try-rule for new places). WTF!!! I feel like I am in an episode of the Twilight Zone. I know two of the best climbers in the US live in the same town (including a World Cup champion). Where do they train?

Jan 8, 2009

The Things That Hate Me

Objective : Technique

Warm-up : Burgener Warm-up with PVC

Training : (1) Snatch balance, triples, 95, 115, 135 X2

(2) Snatch, triples, 95, 95, 95, 95

(3) Row 2000k, 7:39

Notes : I was planning to climb until I woke up and couldn't move my head and shoulders properly. I decided to check a group class at the local CrossFit affiliate. Just my luck, I got the two activities out of the Hopper that are my personal nemisises : the Snatch and rowing. Overall, the affiliate is great, the people are nice, and the coach coaches just right, not too much/ not too little. However, I still have my love/hate relationship with CrossFit's approach to fitness. I love the fact that their random programing will force me to work on my weaknesses. If I was programming I would never have a day like this. I hate that they are too skill orientated. The local coach said, "Our heavy days are usually practice days." OMG! I want to get strong. I don't want to get great at Snatching. My Snatch is not pretty (more Power-style with HUGE donkey kick), but I'm not going to hurt myself. They had me trying to Snatch perfectly with 60% of my max (155 lbs). You can't get stronger with 60% of your max. This is in contrast to the Mountain Athlete approach. They are Strength and Conditioning only, i.e. they don't have you practice exercises that are not your sport. That row time sucked, I have not hit ERG in a long time and left too much in the tank.

Snatch Balance
(135 lbs, heaviest I went all day)

Best Snatch of the Day
(95lbs, light)

Jan 7, 2009

Video Evidence from the Vault

Here is a highlight from my climbing trip to Tahoe earlier this summer:

I spent a week climbing around Tahoe, including a well-known area called "The Secrets". The Secrets are similar to Pine Mountain, except granite. Mark's Marble is a perfect blend of power and technique. The experience was so nice that I had to let out a yelp, even though there was no one around for miles.

Jan 6, 2009

White Mocha with Protein

Objective : Cross-training

Warm-up : Standard CrossFit Warm-up

Training :
Three rounds for time of:
135 pound Deadlift, 15 reps
135 pound Hang power clean, 12 reps
135 pound Front Squat, 9 reps
135 pound Push Jerk, 6 reps
Time - 12:30

Notes : I visited the local CrossFit afflilate. It is better than my old local one in CA. I don't know if I'm sold on it. I hate the standard warm-up. It is a joke. On the other hand, that work-out is no joke. I thought about quitting at one point and couldn't breathe normally for 10 minutes. It is from CrossFit.com. CrossFit.com's workouts are the most effiecient use of gym I have found. The local place's schedule is 5 days on/ 2 days off. That is a lot of practice at CrossFit. I don't want to get better CrossFit. In addition, 5 days on is a watered down version of Crossfit. I rather have my straight shots. Also, I can't workout whenever I want. I love my Sunday workouts after climbing trips.

1-4-7 Used To Mean Something

Objective : Climbing Power

Warm-up : Flash a lot of problems

Training : (1) Campus
Big Rungs : 1-4-5
Small rungs (crimp) : 1-3-4
1-5-8 (fail)
Medium Rungs (open) : 1-5-7

(2) Flash more problems (with downclimbing)

(3) 3 one-arm pull-ups with each arm
lots of front levers, windshield wipers, and 45 lb weighted situps

Notes : After this morning's CrossFit workout, I visited a local climbing gym that also has workout facilities. They grade problems "Recreation", "Intermediate", "Advanced", and "Open." Personally, I like that grading for indoor climbing. I flashed every Advanced problem and most Open problems. SUPER WEIRD!!! I guess hitting the hangboard helped. The only Open problems I couldn't do were either greasy old slopers or in the steep cave. I couldn't keep my feet on because of the earlier workout. I'm not siked about roof climbing. Their setting was very good. However, I got bored and decided to campus. Their campus board is okay. My biggest complaint is the different sized-rungs have different spacing. THERE ARE STANDARDS!!! Those numbers mean nothing, they are only for personal reference. I found another thing I suck at : Pulling through, e.g. on the big rungs it should be 1-4-7, not 1-4-5. I did reach a mini-epiphany : I don't care about CrossFit but love climbing.

Bonus :
Properly spaced campus rungs
Photo courtesy of Moon Climbing

Putting out more videos than Richard Simmons

Here is a video about "core" training (or 'core training) :

Jan 5, 2009

Video Evidence

Here is the highlight reel from bouldering in Las Vegas:

Jan 4, 2009

Minimum Wage is a Gateway Drug

Objective : Climbing Power Endurance

Warm-up : assorted dead hangs and pull-ups throughout the day

Training :
(1) 15s on / 15 rest, 6 rounds per grip, rest 3 minutes between grips

Open hand (top sloper, hard side)
Two finger (middle pocket, easy side)
Full crimp (middle edge, easy side)

rest 10 minutes

(2) 1 minute, continuously moving on hangboard
1.5 minute rest
4 rounds

This is my experiment with training devices. It is two Pusher system tiles mounted on over a doorway. It is temporary until I build the complete system board. I have a mild obession with Pusher because they have great products. I don't see other hold companies picking up where they left off in terms of building training products for climbing. The system tiles can spin 360 degrees because they are mounted on t-nuts. The options are only limited by my imagination.

Notes : Left middle finger feels tweaky from the monos yesterday. My body needs a longer warm-up (like today's). I can tell I have work/rest ratio dialed-in when I don't want to get back on but can physically finish. Workouts that build mental toughness. I got the "1 minute, continuously moving on hangboard" from Mountain Athlete. It kicks my ass every time. My goal is 2 minutes on/ 2 minute rest / 3 rounds by the end of Febuary. Do work!!

Jan 3, 2009

Just Another Front Range Climber (with a blog)

Objective : Climbing Strength

Warm-up : 3 X 10 pull-ups

Training : find smallest hold hangable for 5s, 5 rounds per grip, rest as needed

Mono (mono grip, easy side)
1/2 crimp (crimp grip, hard side)
Two finger (middle pocket, hard side)
Open hand (lower sloper, hard side)

This the best hangboard I have ever seen. It is the no-longer-available Power Junkie by Pusher. It is sleek, no wasted space, and mean, every hold is slopey. The texture is perfect, almost none. Notice the Alan Wrench. The board is mounted on t-nuts so it can be flipped over. 2x the grips, easy side and hard side. Genuis! Notice the stopwatch. Critical for scientific training. Notice the extra holes in the wall. I can't find studs even with a stud finder.

Notes : Ran out of time for crimp grip. It is okay cause I'm kinda strong on crimps. Finished the move to the Front Range of Colorado, aka Center of the Universe. If I was 'core I would have cranked outside yesterday during the daytime high of 50 degrees and continued to sleep in my car. I'm not 'core and found an apartment. However, my apartment is less than 1 mile from a climbing area!!! If I was 'core I would have cranked there despite today's daytime high of 32 degrees. I'm not 'core and hit the board. If I was 'core I would convert my living room into a woody, it is huge with 15' vaulted ceilings. I'm not 'core and am converting an extra bedroom into a woody.

Bonus :
Incomplete List of Front Range Climbing Blogs

Jan 1, 2009

Looking Forward

I spent a fair bit of 2008 behind the wheel. I plan to spend even more time traveling 2009.

I don't make New Years Resolutions. I make everyday resolutions. I look for limiters or weakness and attack them. However, I'm setting some goals for the new year :

- Climb in a foreign country. I climb all over the US but rarely leave its psychological safety. The plan is somewhere with limestone, preferably multipitch.

- Complete a climbing-based birthday challenge. My birthday is in August, the big 3-0. Plenty of time to train. You don't have to train for a challenge, but training increases your ability to suffer (thus making the challenge better).

Rank-ordered list of ideas :
1. 300 boulder points in a day (V1 = 1, V2 = 2 , ...)
2. 300 boulder problems in a day (any grade)
3. 30 routes in a day (11a minimum)

- Complete a route pyramid with 13a top, i.e. 4 X 12b, 3 X 12c, 2 X 12d, 1 X 13a.
Right now, I can send 12a 2nd go (most of the time). I have only done one 12b (I think it was soft).

- Complete a boulder pyramid with V10 top, i.e. 4 X V7, 3 X V8, 2 X V9, 1 X V10.
I have sent less than 5 V7s and 1 V8.

- Flash one V7
I have flashed 2 V6s

- Onsight one 12a
This is one is going to be hard, my best onsight is 11b. I really suck at onsighting. I get scared and my technique goes out the window.

No training goals. Sometimes I train for the sake of training, and I'm trying to stop. However, I will have training benchmarks for each of the goals.