Jun 23, 2012

Saturday Syke

Are first ascents for the first ascentionist or for the community? 

Jonathan Siegrist has decided new climbs are for the community. That means new climbs should be enjoyable while respecting the unique history of each crag.

 Most importantly - They should be shared.

Jun 21, 2012

Warren Buffett on Training for Climbing

"Investing is forgoing consumption now in order to have the ability to consume more at a later date."
Warren Buffett

Training for climbing is similar. The monkey trap of constant projecting captures most climbers. I was caught in that trap for years. Now I am letting go of small wins (i.e., trying to climb outside during an East Coast summer) in order to setup a big win in the Fall.

Jun 19, 2012

Review: Power Endurance by Steve Bechtel

Climb Strong has released a new training manual - "Power Endurance: Fatigue Management for Rock Climbers."

Power Endurance is a manifesto (e.g., Declaration of Independence and The War of Art), a short document meant to change thoughts and, more importantly, change actions. It is aimed at changing thoughts and actions about training for power endurance climbing. Power endurance climbing, although ill-defined, requires continuous submaximal intensity. This type of climbing is ugly and nasty but essential to sport climbing (and select bouldering).

It is a slim volume, under 60 pages, but is all killer/no filler. The text is clear and light, but heavy with first-hand experience of helping climbers reach their next level. It gives equal weight the why and the how of training power endurance. There are overall training plans and individual workouts. The focus is on-the-wall progressions.

Most of the material has been covered on the website, but I prefer the physical book for my training library. A book gives structure to the logic and weight to the thoughts.

I am using it as the basis for Fall training programs, both for myself and the people I coach.

Like a true training junkie, I always want a little more. Hopefully, Steve Bechtel will provide a bigger fix sometime soon.

Pick up a copy here.

Jun 9, 2012

Saturday Syke

A breathtaking mediation on hard climbing.

The hard climbing scene frequently comes across like high school prom, aka "Who was the first to put their hands where?" However, there can be moments of transcendence.

Jun 5, 2012

Talking Doesn't Cook Rice

And hanging out on a crash pad doesn't send the project
(or make you a better climber).

Jun 2, 2012

Saturday Syke

Udo Neumann is the clear leader in climbing competition highlight reels. By refraining from quick edits, he allows the elegant movement to develop and showcases the ground breaking routesetting. The use of split-screen invites comparisons between the divergent climbing styles represented. He is accelerating the development of indoor climbing for both routesetters and climbers.

Who will do the same for outside climbing?