Jun 30, 2010

Blogging Empire

Training: 1) Technique

2) Bouldering

3) T2P

4) Dynamic Effort, 1-arm

5) MU, 3X4

6) Pull-ups and Dips

7) Front lever and stall bar leg lifts

Notes: Settling into a groove. Technquie work, a bit of hardish climbing, and some tolerance training. I'm getting better at each of these aspects. Hopefully, I will see some transfer.

#1 foot hover, decompress #2 Focus on quality movement over sending, alertnagted between my own problems and established climbs #3 Traverse into Spiderman (~V2 into ~V3), 6 laps, 2:00 between laps #5-#7 Noticed some modest gains after taking 3 days off. Birthday Challenges training is training for its own sport (that you make up the rules to). I always feel like I need to get more serious about the training. I supersetted the physical training with fun, i.e. front flips out off the trampoline pit, learning basic parallette work, and 1-arm cartwheels.

Jun 29, 2010

Poking The Bear

1) Technique, 1.5 block

2) Bouldering, .5 block

3) Fartlek Intervals, 1 block

4) Mobility/Basic Gymnastics, 1 block

"Two-Minute Drills Part 2: Treating That Sticky Rib" with Kelly Starrett

Notes: #1 Continuing to move up the dyno progression - bigger, more sidewise, more single handed. Continued progression on one leg climbing by climbing harder problems #2 Quick sent all the new problems, including a "project" dyno (2nd go, static for me) #3 I'm improving and it feels nice. 1st round - Adv, Active Recovery (AR), Int, Int 2nd round - Adv, Adv, Int, Int 3rd round - Adv, AR, Adv, Int, AR, Int #4 Tried the Kelly Starrett "Treating that sticking rib" until I started to cry (literally). Either I was doing something very right or very wrong. The jury is still out. I "played" on cool playground bars near my work, made up a nice kipping pull-up progression (since I don't know of one for tight shoulders). I released so much tension that I feel like I'm floating.

Jun 27, 2010

Narrative Fallacy

Training: 1) Technique

2) Bouldering

3) RI, 5 minutes

4) Mobility

Notes: #1 2nd dyno session - reinforced the basics, moved to bigger, compression and started awkard dynos #2 Making nice gains. Focused on smooth linking of moves #3 lost interest #4 working through my stuff, mainly neck and wrist, nothing major.

Jun 24, 2010

Modern Life is a Repetitive Use Injury

Training: 1) Technique

2) Bouldering

3) RI

Notes: #1 Training for an upcoming dyno comp. Laying a big foundation. Aiming for 9 sends for every 1 fail. #2 Feel stronger than ever, probably from taking it easier. Need a to find a strong stimulus to elicit the proper response #3 Ended early when I kick myself and started bleeding. NEGATIVE. Probably for the best save something for the weekend.

Jun 22, 2010

Same Big Hole, New Dirt

Training: 1) Technique, 1 block

2) T2P, 1 block

3) Gymnastic Buffet

Notes: I train alone. I like training alone. I don't carry about who sent what "secret" project, where the "pro climbers" are climbing this month, or what grade a problem gets this week. I don't care about a couple of bolts on some cliff I'll never go to. I just want to climb. This is my chance for action, instead of just talk. Today, right now. Excuse me while I turn the down the volume on my life, your life, and all of life.

#1 Still getting after it at CATS. My climbing is improving. #2 Better at the longer thing. Skin was the limiting factor. #3. Went horrible, couldn't do easy stuff for me. Didn't want to force it. First time on a balance beam in 25 years! Doubled the amount of time on trampoline over last session. Finished with some pull-ups and core. It is fun and reasonable to do kipping pull-ups on proper gynmastic equipment. The variety of basic equipment provides an environment for me to properly scale "bodywieght" movements.

Jun 17, 2010

Don't Get Your Feathers Wet

Training: 1) Technique, 1 block

2) DT, 1 block

3) RI, 1 block

rest 3 hours

4) 3 rounds
6 1-arm push-ups

5) 1 arm dip practice, negative only

6) dips, doubles, 90, 90, 90

7) Front lever, 3 sets

8) 3 rounds
10 pull-ups
10 1-arm situps, 27.5 lbs

9) Shoulder prehab

Notes: #1- Foot Hoover, Leg Progesion #2 - 4 problems x 4 (Adv, Adv-, Adv, Int+), #3 ~3 rounds of Traverse into Int+, Recovery, Int+, Recovery, Int+ #5 I'm strong enough to do a 1-arm dip. I'm working on learning the tricks.

I had another mental breakthough today. It was during #3. I got to the point where it didn't matter that I was pumped. Physically, I was tired and pumped, but there wasn't the typical fight or flight mental response. It was nice to enjoy it. I ended the training session shortly after.

Jun 9, 2010

Maybe "Nothing" Is The Best Model

Training: 1) Technique, 1 block

2) RI, 1 block

3) Power Touches, 3 sets

4) Pull-ups, 3 sets

Notes: One thing I learned from Rob Shaul of Mountain Athlete is the power of progressions. The idea you start where you at and move towards your goal in small measurable steps. One counter example is people skipping grades, frequently in an indoor setting. Gravitating towards the new, therefore cooler, problems or the ones their buddies are working. All my training is based on progressions, both micro and macro. One example is my technique work today. The micro progression is:

First, do the problem with both legs.
Second, do the same problem with only the weaker leg.
Third, do the same problem with there only the stronger leg.
Fourth, do the same problem with both legs (hopefully with refinement over lap #1)

This is part of a larger marco progression aimed at adding diversity to my climbing movement. I drop knee a lot, probably more than I should. It is frequently easier to do the individual moves but keeps me on a climb longer. I need to be able to move with more momentum and less foot combinations (several hand movements with the same feet).

#1 - Foot Hoover, Decompress, Leg Combinations #2 - Horrible. My ability to recover is definite limiter. I'm only able to recover on mega jugs and there are no mega jugs at CATS. Dave Mcleod in his book "9 out of 10 climbers ..." discuses focusing on the aspect of climbing that has the highest derivative, i.e. rate of change. Recovery ability on marginal holds is that aspect for me. #3 - My back is often the most tired muscle after climbing outside. I'm not sure how to best train it. #4 - I suck at high volume pull-ups.

Jun 8, 2010

Reverse Skimming

1) Technique, 2 blocks

2) Bouldering, 1 block

3) T2P, 2 blocks

rest 3 hours

4) 1-arm pull-up, singles, +0

5) dips weighted, 3X5, 70lbs

6) pistols, 3x5, +0

7) 1 arm press, 3x5, 45 Left, 50 Right

8) Good Morning, a bunch with 95lbs

9) Shoulder hand job, 50X1, 10lbs

Notes: #1 Foot hoover (my favorite drill), dyno (felt rusty, too much arm pull), 1 leg only (a good one that I need to do more) #2 climbed okay, need to rest more between attempts #3 I did a variety of "routes", the best one was 20 moves of V0/1 into a 10 move, V3/4 #4-#7 Back on track for a B-day challenge #8 My back is my biggest physical limiter (excluding finger strength) #9 Works my old shoulder injury nicely

Jun 6, 2010

Course Correction

I just returned from the wide open spaces of the American Southwest. I love car travel through the desert because it gives me the space and chance to develop my thoughts. I set myself free and see if I return to what I love, like the metaphorically caged loved.

I love climbing. In particular, I love the intense physical and mental problem solving in beautiful places. I look for different experiences. I find it through different movement on different rocks. Sometimes, I want to climb a lot. Climbing in established areas with guidebooks facilitate that goal. Other times, I want to explore new rock with only myself imposed rules. I could be the first or the hundredth to climb on a rock, it doesn't matter. It is new to me. New to me a different, special way compared to established problems. For me, established problem come with the baggage of rules and expectations. I sometimes break the rules for an ascent of an established problem. The climbing police come and write me ticket. Other times, I don't meet my own expectations.

I realize the majority of people who climb stick to established climbs, the well-trodden fork in the road. I try to help them out by sharing the problems I have found. With them, the rules I have made. I welcome other interpretations of the same rock.

I'm resteering the direction of the blog in the most important direction. The blog will continue my online training log/thought sketch pad. I plan to more thoroughly profile climbs not "in print" anywhere else and more honest reviews. The trip reports/spray will be greatly reduced. I'm still climbing outside all the time, but I'm drawing the curtain on that window into my world.

Jun 5, 2010

GC & C Tour, Stop 6 : Santa Maria, CA

The last lag of The Green Chili and Pockets Tour was Mr. Lee's of Santa Maria, CA. First off, Highway 166 is fucking scary. I don't know how Phil drives it weekly. I would have to be sedated.

Crankenstein on Buddhist Palm
Mr. Project Projecting

St. Maria climbers is an odd tribe. The men, Phil and Elijah, were on Buddhist Palm, 13d. The boys, Justin and Micah, were on Hard Boiled, 13b. That left Andre and I on Sea of Love, 12b. It was fun commiserating/exchanging beta with her, a change of pace from working stuff out by myself.

I feel like Sport Climbing Brian 2.0, lighter, smarter, and a better state of mind. However, this route is bad for me. Easy(ish) climbing leads to a 5 move boulder problem. The crux is a scary slightly awkward clip in the middle of the problem. Micah likened it to posing down in the middle of a lock-off on a highball. If the crux of a route is a clip, the route probably sucks. I should either skip the route or skip the clip.

It comes down to the basic elements of life, Love and Fear. Right now, I enter a state of joy and focus when moving over stone. The fear of missing clips pulls me out of that state. Some days, I feel The Fear all the time. Today it was just during the one clip.


Hard Boiled, 13b
Approved Rehab for an Exploded Ankle

Getting After It
The Crew Approves

Sharing Footholds and Syke

Another highlight was a syked local crew from SLO came by. I ran into them at Mr. Lee's and Owl Tor. I love The Tor more. It is steep and unrelenting, a physically menacing cliff. It makes climbers stick together to fight it. Mr. Lee's is more open. Climbers spread out and find their own roost.

It always an adventure. Lucky me, I got to see a rattlesnake! Earlier in the day, people were trap shooting into the crag. SERIOUSLY! I was happy to pass on the oral knowledge of the area.

Beer, Bugs, & Friends

Still Getting After IT

Bonus: A circuit of moderate bouldering in SLO and dinner on the beach.

Routes sent:
?, 9, Onsight (First Santa Maria onsight, scary mantle)

11b, 1 hang
Sea of Love, 12b, 4 tries (BTB, 3 one hangs)

Jun 3, 2010

The Slick Trick With The Donkey Dick

Training: 1) Technique, 1 block

2) Boulder, 1 block

3) T2P, 2 blocks

Notes: #1- I foot bobble when things get hard. Perfect practice with foot placements at progressively harder levels. Stop at diminishing returns. #2 - I worked a hard(ish) problem interveaved with hard(ish) flashes. #3 Already getting more tolerance but still hard.

Jun 1, 2010


Training: 1) Technique, 1 block

2) Hang, .3 block

3) T2P, 2 blocks

Notes: I'm transitioning from roadtrip into my training cycle. This cycle will focus on tolerance, i.e., the ability to do hard moves when pumped. I suck really bad at it, both on a physical and mental level.

#1 - Focused on using momentum especially from a position of off-balance, e.g. right foot on (only) and moving left arm. #2 - I'm training for a cliff that has a proper amount of 2 finger pockets. Most gyms choose not to set with pockets so I've to supplement with a hangboard. SAID, enough said. #3 - I traversed ~10 moves of V1/2 into ~15 moves of V4/5.

2 finger campusing to warm-up.
If you think you can 2 finger campus, you can.