Aug 31, 2009

Untied Testarossas

Objective: Climbing Technique, Climbing Endurance

Warm-up: Flash, V0 X 3
V1 X 2
V2 X 1

Training: 1) Flash problems, up to V8, 75 minutes

2) Climbing continuously, 20 minutes

3) Prehab

Second only to tread walls for training Climbing Endurance

Notes: Movement training session and they had reset one of their bouldering walls. I used the opportunity to train for an upcoming indoor comp and road trip. My goal wasn't just to get to the top of the problems, but to get the top as perfectly as possible. #2 was Farlek-style, mix of hard climbing with 5.9 climbing.

Aug 30, 2009

Big Game Area, End of the Season

I have spent the last 2 days at "Big Game", and it is looking unbelievably rad. It is no Hueco Tanks, but it is awesome for being within 30 minutes of my house. The first day was a work day, i.e. scouting the best walls and building landings. At the end of the day I snuck in some climbing on a striking line on "Trophy Wall".

"That is a Good Looking Mount"

On the second day, I was joined by a Lauren, a coworker from the climbing gym, for bag limit amount of FAs. We start the day at "Season Opener Cave", repeating the lines and solidifying the grades. I put another line:

We quickly moved to "Small Game Wall." Originally I named it "Small Game Wall" as a poke at boulders. There is some good (but hidden) sport climbing potential, and this is just a small cave. The name is now ironic because the wall is mostly highballs.

Top Rope Inspection,
just like the pros do

The right most line, pictured above, is "Chubby Bunny" V1. Lauren stepped up and got the FA. I had to settle for the FMA (First Male Ascent). The next line to the left is "Frightened Rabbit" V5. It was starts on large jug to dynamic moves on sloping loafs.

"Frightened Rabbit"

The next line to the right is SDS on a jug then follows a crack feature to a throw to a sloping ledge.

"Wicked Wabbit"

Full disclosure: I did feel comfortable enough to top out the last two lines.

Next, we went over to the steep "Who's Hunting Who Wall" and both flashed a steep fun line on the right. While I was investigating an alternative descent after I sent the middle line, I spooked the biggest rattlesnake I have ever seen. Even though Lauren didn't see it, the rattle was loud enough to scare her from climbing there anymore.

"Who's Hunting Who Wall"
right to left
Unnamed, V2 - SDS, fun climbing to awkward exit
Unnamed, V3 - lie back fins
"Tommy Lee's Rattle", Project - SDS, climb arete

We finished the day at "Trophy Wall", 300+ft. mostly continuous wall. It starts in a potential sport climbing cave. The next 100ft section is easy bouldering. Followed by 100ft section over the river. Then another small potential sport climbing cave. It is end capped with "That is a Good Looking Mount" Project. We just traversed the 100ft section of easy bouldering.

"Manny Feet Traverse", V2
(Not a typo but a bad pun)

Unfortunately, that is the end of the season for "Big Game". It lies on public land which is closed to the public (other than hunting and fishing) from September 1 to May 1.

Aug 28, 2009

Big Game Area, "Season Opener"

Today was the first day of development for the Big Game Area, primarily it is a hunting area for "Big Game". I don't know what the "Big Game" is, but I'm a little spooked walking through the chest-high grass.

Season Opener Cave
1. Chipmunk Killing Time, VO - SDS
2. Unnamed, V3 - SDS, tricksy start yields to easier climbing
3. Season Opener, V2/3, - SDS, follow good edges, rad problem
4. Unnamed, V0 - SDS, easy climbing leads to spooky exit

There are a couple more problems left to do in "Season Opener Cave", including a traverse line.

This is will be "Small Game Wall", with at least 4 independent lines.
I'm usually not syked on traverses but this could be another good one.

I broke my trusty shears.

Season Opener, FA

Bonus : I found an application to create beta photos (like the one above). Check it out - Beta Creator.

Aug 27, 2009

Horsetooth Reservoir, Wreck Yourself Thursdays

Problems Sent: A bunch of easy moderates
Mental Standard, V4 (4th go, lost my outdoor edge)

Problems Tried: Pinch Overhang, V5, 1 try
Mammen Traverse, V9, worked (it will go soon)

Climbing -

Falling -

Notes: @ and I did a little before work session at Horsetooth Reservoir. It was okay. We climbed, I fell, it got hot, and we went home.


Objective: Climbing Strength

Warm-up: Flash, Rec X 4 (up & down)
Intermediate X 3 (up & down)

Training: 1) Technique, roof, drop-knee, heel hook, hand/foot match

2) Flash, Adv X 3
Adv X 1 (fail)

3) System, sloper, 1-2 moves
upper left match

Residue of the Mountain Athlete training session

Notes: The roof technique training is paying off with a flash of Adv roof problem. I still don't like climbing roofs (too much feet cutting). I failed to flash an Adv problem because I couldn't figure out how the feet should drive the movement. I'm getting measurably strong on slopers. PROGRESS!!

Aug 25, 2009

Big Game, Another New Area

Today I left the house with the modest goals of bolting new lines near The Palace. However fate had different plans, a traffic accident shut down Highway 14. I used it as an opportunity to explore the wilder, north part of Larimer Country. I found a rad new area.

I'm calling it "Big Game."

Welcome to "Big Game" Country

This small cave is 15 minutes from the road.

Steep Wall

Another Cave

Different view of same cave

There is potential for sport climbing but nothing spectacular

The catch is this section of public land only open to the public from May 1 to September 1.
No time to waste!!

From what I have seen about 1% of the rock in Larimer County is developed.

Aug 24, 2009


Obj: Finger Strength (I say Climbing Stamina)

Warm up: 3 Rounds
1 minute hang board
5x Renegade Man Makers (M-25#, W-15#)

(1) 10 Rounds, 10 sec hang, 10 sec rest, each combination, body weight only
- Pinkie/Ring (big pocket)
- Ring/Middle (medium pocket)
- Middle/Index (big pocket)
- Small Ledge (all 4 fingers)
- Medium Ledge (all 4 fingers)
- Big Ledge (all 4 fingers)

(2) 3 Rounds
Run 200m
20x Box Jumps
10x Push Ups

(3) Repeat Part (1)

My pinky is small and mostly useless

Notes: Mountain Athlete Session in Boulder. Hangboard minutes always kill me. They never get easier. I had to use my middle finger on the first set, split finger pocket hang. My ring/middle are my "get it done" pocket fingers and relatively strong. I'm reluctant to add weight, maybe next time. 20x Box Jumps is a lot for Olympic Lifter. I'm not in hybrid training shape anymore, red lining for the last 2/3. Even at 9am, it is hot in Boulder. I felt "soupy" at the end.

I really enjoy MA workouts. They are very hard and different from what I would program. I'm attracted to some core CrossFit ideas (It is hard for me to buy wholesale into any one program). For example, "Constantly varied, functional movements executed at high intensity." This workout is consistent with that idea.

I need to get stronger at open hand. The last two workouts are progress towards that goal.

Aug 23, 2009

A Fifth of Beethoveen

Objective: Climbing Strength, Climbing Endurance, Gymnastics

Warm-up: 1) 30 move traverse

2) Flash problems V3-V9

Training: 1) Campus
Large Rungs 1-4-6/7
Medium Rungs 1-4-5
Large Slopers 1-3-5
Medium Slopers 1-3-4

2) 2 rounds per hand
Medium Rungs
1-4-1 X 5

3) Continuous climbing, 5.8/5.9, 20 minutes

4) Practice Gymnastics
shoulder rolls, forward rolls, handstand roll out, L-sit walk backwards, deck squats, single leg deck squats, planche flat tuck, air baby, horizontal middle split hold (HMSH)

Cooler than outside, but still not optimal

Big Sloper, Medium Sloper, Ridiculous Sloper, Large Rung

Movement's Unusable Ring Setup

Campus Sloper

Campus Sloper

Notes: It was too hot in Boulder to crank outside so I took the training session inside at Movement. Their campusboard is pretty good. I got to play on the slopers (one of my limiters). I did a quick ARC session, I haven't had the facilities do lately. It felt very easy. They have a nice padded area, perfect for gymnastics practice. The major downside is the "fitness room" does not have a pull-up bar or dip station. It does have a horrible ring setup.

Aug 22, 2009

First Responder Area, Micro Nut Love

AT on the FA of "First on the Scene, First in Our Hearts" 5.9

The rack, 4 micro nuts & 1 cam, for FA of "Artist in the Ambulance" 10c

I took a 12ft whipper on this piece after a higher marginal piece blew.

Notes: @ joined me at the First Responder Area to finish off the main wall. We FA'd everything. I sent the bolted line, still unnamed, first try. Alex is making me add another bolt so people don't deck clipping the anchors. She cruised up "First on the Scene, First in Our Hearts" 5.9 for the FA. I quickly sent the trad line to the left, also unnamed.

I got down to business on "Artist in the Ambulance" 10c. The gear is okay but finicky. On my first lead go, I took a whipper, blew a piece, and hit Alex. YIKES. I realized the consequences but had no fear of the fall. I rested for a moment, sacked up, and sent it. I'm very inefficient at placing gear on nontrivial trad climbs. I need to address that weakness if I want to pursue trad climbing.

Bonus: If you want to know if you proj is on public land - Larimer County Assessor. Luckily, this crag is on public land.

Aug 20, 2009

Horizon Problem

Objective: Climbing Strength

Warm-up: Flash new Problems
Int X 4
Adv X 3

Training: (1) Campus
Medium Rung

Small Rung

(2) System board, 4-6 moves
Crimp, #2, #1, #0

(3) System board, Wide moves
Lower right

(4) Rhythm Intervals
Level 1
Level 2

What are your indicators?

Notes: I'm not engaged by the Open Problems in the gym. Every problem has wide pinches. I have yet to find a stopper move outside that involved a wide pinch.

I campused until I hit my elbow on hangboard - Campusboard Fail. After I got over my anger, I got down to some system board work. I felt strong and went after the #0 setting. SMALL. I want to be stronger at full extension so I'm skipping panels laterally, #3, as I move up. A small but important improvement on the Rhythm Intervals.

First Responder Area, "Artist in the Ambulance"

Leftside of Main Wall
"Artist in the Ambulance" follows the rope
"Unnamed" follows the crack system to the right

Rightside of Main Wall
"First on the Scene, First in Our Hearts" follows the crack system on the left
"Unnamed" follows the rope, 4 bolts to Anchor

Notes: Still knocked on my ass from the Met Con training. I decided to develop new routes as "active recovery." I would love to bolt long steep hard classic lines. Instead, I found some short easy trad lines. The lines still need more cleaning but they will go.

"Artist in the Ambulance" is named after Micah. He had a serious fall, and I wish him a speedy recovery.
(Technically, he was never in ambulance. But it sounds better than "Artist in Bob's Car")

"First on the Scene, First in Our Hearts" is the obvious line at the crag and gets the best name.

Please post possible routes names for the unnamed lines to comments.
Try to stick to the theme.

Aug 13, 2009

Biblical Capitalism

Objective: Climbing Technique

Training: 1) Technique, Various Cracks, 30 minutes

2) Project, 12+, 4 solid tries

3) 4 rounds
250m, row
40 push-ups
rest 1:00 between rounds

Think about this next time you're training or projecting.

Notes: Still deloading. I want the local fall season to start. I tried another person's beta on an indoor project. I keep learning the same lessons again and again. I SHOULDN'T TAKE OTHER PEOPLE'S BETA. I know my body better than they do.

Aug 11, 2009

Countries For Clunkers

Objective: Climbing Strength

Training: Maximal hangs, rest as needed
1) Sloper, hard side, middle
53, 63, 63, 63

2) Crimp, easy side, smallest crimp
0, 0, 0, 0

3) 1/2 crimp, easy side, middle outside
53, 53, 58

Weight is Weight

Notes: It is hot. I'm tired. I still trained. Compare to - Previous Session.

Did you hit the hangboard this week? Did you set a PR? I did.

Aug 10, 2009

Castle Greyskull, So Good So FAR

Objective: New Routing

1) Cleaned and sent new route (on TR)
Name - Trying to Get the Man's Foot Outta My Ass (tentative)
Grade - 10+ (tentative)

Alex enjoying the views from the top of Castle Greyskull.

Stash destroyed

The creatures of Castle Greyskull find climbing ropes delicious.

The humans of Castle Greyskull find raspberries delicious.

Crazy shining rocks

I bolted a line in the middle of this face.
The left artete looks much harder/radder.

Notes: Somehow I convinced/tricked Alex into bolting with me at Castle Greyskull on the Poudre River. The hike is brutal, longish, uphill, and does not follow an established trail. I think it is worth it because it is a wild place with high quality rock. After a quick brush to remove the lichen, the routes are ready to go.

I'm developing some single pitches before getting crazy with the multiple pitch. The line I worked on today follows a crack to a roof to technical crimpy crux. I love Castle Greyskull, but I plan to focus my efforts on objectives closer to the road.

Aug 9, 2009

The Devil’s Chalpin

Objective: Active Recovery

Training: Flash routes
(1) Up & Down, 7,8,9,10,11
(2) Up only, 11, 11, 12(f), 12

(3) 3 rounds
10 1-arm swings, left
10 1-arm swings, right
10 2-arm swings
20ft Alligator push-ups

Glad to be back in CO

Notes: I took one complete rest day after my challenge. Today I got back in the gym to work the kinks out with a very easy day. One of biggest problems in doing my own programing is I don't schedule adequate rests and deloads. I'm getting better at resting but still need to work on deloading. Typically, my climbing trips are "deloads."

Aug 7, 2009

Birthday Challenge 2009, 30 years, 30 routes

As a culmination of my increased interest in onsighting sport climbing routes, I decided that a logical, yet slight absurd, Birthday Challenge would be onsighting 30 routes on my 30th birthday. I picked Wild Iris in Lander, WY. It is a beautiful crag, cool in the summer, with short routes.

Hands at the start of the day.

Rad Coffee + Rad Rock = Rad Challenge
The owner of Folklore Coffee in Lander is passionate/obsessed about coffee.
Do yourself a favor and stop by.

Sometime in the middle.
The route follows the lieback crack with no feet.

Most of the climbing was vertical limestone, but there was the occasional 3 dimensional route.
The route is graded 5.8, there were 2 actual holds.

My awesome belayer/girlfriend

Clipping the chains on the 30th route.

Hands at the end of the day.
Not too bad, considering the amount of limestone climbed.

I started the challenge at 7:30 and finished around 5:30, with plenty of time for the Lander Bar. Overall, the challenge was "easy". It was 99% mental. My training prepared me almost perfectly. I was most sore from things I didn't train for - holding clipping positions (I trained mostly by bouldering) and from high stepping (I trained mostly indoors).

I've struggled to come with the proper words to describe the experience. This challenge was a once in a lifetime experience, but felt like just another step along my path of life.

The Numbers
0 - Falls/Takes
1 - Awesome Belayer
2 - Major slips (both within the first 10 routes)
4 - Monos

Grade, Name, Route Number*
7, Greenhorns in Velvet (11)
7, “R” is for Redneck (25)
7, Medicine Show (27)
7, Chapito, (30)
8, Phat Phinger Phrenzy (8)
8, Guns of Diablo (14)
8, Ticks for Chicks (21)
8, La Vaca Peligrossa (23)
8, Slave (24)
8, Huggys Pull-ups (28)
8, Pronghorn Pinnacle, (16)
9, Iron Horse With a Twisted Heart (1)
9, Annie Get Your Drill (10)
9, Saddle Up (17)
9, Britchen Strap (18)
9, The Hanging Tree (22)
10a, Red Ryder (12)
10a, Jabba The Hut (13)
10a, Brown Dirt Cowgirl (7)
10a, Nouveau West (19)
10b, Stacked Deck (2)
10b, Aces & Eights (3)
10b, Never Sit With Your Back to the Door (6)
10b, Wet Wipe-a-Whet (29)
10c, Claim Jumper (9)
10c, The Man From Laramie (20)
10c, Back in the Saddle (26)
10d, Red As a Blooming Rose (4)
10d, Matilda’s Last Waltz (5)
* I forgot to write down route #15

Thank Yous
My Girlfriend - She is probably more relieved than me that Birthdays are 365 days apart
All the equippers - Made the challenge "easy"
Todd Skinner - Enough said
Steve Becthtel & Mountain Athlete - Invaluble training & advice

Aug 6, 2009

Birthday Challenge Time

The day of reckoning is here.

I will attempt to onsight 30 routes tomorrow, 8/7/09. If you are in the Lander area, come on by watch me suffer.

I will be in Wild Iris from 7:30-5, Sinks Canyon from 5-dusk/death, and Lander Bar post dusk/death.

Aug 2, 2009

It's All Jerks & Snatches

I'm proud to announce my new blog: It's All Jerks & Snatches.

I had a small epiphany and am perusing Olympic Weightlifting with increased vigor. Two of the best methods to commit to a course of action is competition, which I do as frequently as possible, and public declaration, one easy manifestation is a blog. In addition, Olympic Weightlifting, at best, has a small positive correlation with climbing performance and does not belong on a blog about increasing climbing performance.