May 28, 2010

GC & C Tour, Stop 6 : Lake Tahoe

I simply love Tahoe. There is so much high quality rock. Posting up in a cabin is always rad. There was snow everywhere forcing us to climb at the Donner Lake State Park on the first day, not ideal but acceptable. The second day we stayed closer to home and developed a boulder about 100ft from the cabin.

Warming up a solid line

Surfing the Arete

The Peloton

One of My All-Time Favorite Slabs

Playing with Fat Boy
V11, but kinda lame



Alex on The Prancing Lion

A Leo Prancing

Day 1
Location: State Park

Unnamed, V5, redpoint (split rock far half #16, 1st try today)
Unnamed, V1, flash (split rock near half, #8)
Bear Hug, V4, redpoint (1st go once I know where the holds where)
Bear Hug, V7, sds, redpoint (2nd try from the sit)

Location: Memorial Boulder
Fat Boy, V11 (contrived but worked it for training proposes)
V10 (no clue?)

Day 2

Location: Classified

The Lion Boulder

Left to Right
Lion Cub, VB (downclimb arete)
Declawed, V1 (arete, contrived)
Mane Attraction, V1/2 (short but engaging heel hook)
The Prancing Lion, V0 (arete right to left)
Wrestling with a Lion, V1 (blunt arete)
Little Paw, V3 (sds to slopers)

May 25, 2010

GC & C Tour, Stop 5 : Red Rocks

The Road Goes On.

Beautiful, As Always

Day 1

757 2X4, 7, onsight

Bonaire, 9, onsight

Lewd, Crude, and Misconstrued, 9+, onsight

Need to Rest, 10b, onsight

Glitter Gluch, 11a, 2nd go (first go 1 year ago)

Rebel without a Pause, 11b, 2nd go (first go 8 years ago)

Crude Control, 12a, 3 tries (contrived but really fun)

Lee Press On, 12b, 2 tries (BTB, 1 hang)

Day 2

Crazy Eights, 8, Onsight (really good & long)

Mother's Milk, 8, Onsight (thinner than Crazy Eights)

Chrome Dome, 10a/b, Onsight (good stuff)

Sister Pain, 11b, Onsight (piss easy)

Sweet Pain, 11d, 2nd go (first go 1 year ago, didn't get even get pumped today - thanks to The Sessions and JS's training)

Lee Press On, 12b, 2 tries (2 X 1 fall, took a nice 20fter postcrux, still much to learn about sport climbing)

May 21, 2010

GC & C Tour, Stop 4 : Priest Draw

Day 1

I thought Priest Draw as going to be the high point of the trip. My plan was to dominate the gymnastic climbing on pockets. The first setback was only having a sketchy internet guidebook. Not good but better than nothing. The second setback was realizing I've no idea how to climb outside roofs. I didn't send anything after some random warm-ups. DAMN!

Beware of Priest Draw locals. They are honemasters. They know micro-tricks that I would not thought possible.

Day 2

I returned with a new frame, have fun and learn. I would look for good lines and try climb outside my box. I was sending-in-a-day the grade I typically flash. In the end, it was an enjoyable day in the forest. It would be awesome if they place had a decent guidebook.

Alex on the incredible warm-up boulder


May 20, 2010

GC & C Tour, Stop 3 : Cibola National forest

While traveling through the wastelaste of eastern New Mexico, Alex and I stumbled upon Cibola National forest just outside of Galup, NM. It has miles of seemingly untouched sandstone.


May 19, 2010

GC & P Tour, Stop 2 : Jemez, NM

The next stop is a was a new-to-me area call The Pond near Jemez, NM. The volcanic rock in an higher altitude forest made for a wonderful afternoon out. There was no one on the rocks or in the campground, simply shocking for the quality of the place. I guess it's not trendy to climb there.

Cleaning up a project that didn't go.
Life of a roadtrippin' climber.

30ft Chimney Traverse = Interesting

Pottery Shard
Rad Litter

Climbing Tape
Lame Litter

Problems Sent:
20 minute Boulder, V2, V4, V1, V5, V4, V4, V2, V3,
King for Day Boulder, V2, Flash
Reservoir Dogs, V4, Flash
Dot Dot Space, V5, Flash

Problems Tried:
King for a Day, V6, epic fail
Triple Mullet Blowjob, V10, 2 tries (endro traverse with horrible ending)
Pulp Friction, V10, 3 tries (1 move V10 dynos are HARD)