Nov 29, 2010

The Best Chain on the Slaveship

Training: 1) Technique

2) Competition Simulation

3) Threshold Bouldering/Technique

4) CIR

5) Prehab

Notes: Last "Heavy Day" before the comp. Only climbing but laser focused climbing. #1 Focused on being relaxed. “Slow is smooth and smooth is fast” (Stolen from Dan John. Who probably stole it from someone else.) #2 Flash some hardish stuff. At several points, I was heel hooking hard enough to almost cramp up. I'm curious about the cause - suboptimal technique, electrolyte imbalance, hamstring weakness, leg fatigue, or something else. Focused on learning the tricks of the competition setters. Learning from the past - most national champions were from Boulder, CO and most national championship setters were from Boulder, CO. (Quite the coincidence). #3 Focused on movements that are difficult for me. #4 Advanced problem repeats with near complete rest. #5 No abs or strength training today.

Nov 27, 2010

Saturday Syke

This week's syke is a narrative, instead of the usual video, thanks to trouble with my laptop and lack of internet access (standard roadtrip stuff). I'm not much of a writer or a project climber but respect people that choose to excel at those activities. They take a distinct mental disposition (and lots of practice).


Nov 26, 2010

Thingsgetting Day

Training: 1) Technique

2) Competition Simulation

3) Campus/Hangboard

4) Stamina

5) Prehab/Core

High of 30 ...

3ft of snow on the boulders ...

Time to Hit The Board!!!

Notes: Coming off a successful 2+ week roadtrip (more about that later). New cycle - Contest Prep. Attacking specific weaknesses - reading heel hooks during flash attempts, indoor pinches, and stamina for 3 hours of sending. #1 - foot hoover, decompress, keep technique the same as grades increase (stolen from Olympic Lifting training) #2 - I flashed the second hardest problem in the gym. The hardest "problem" was 13+ moves. Most routes I do aren't 13 moves. #3 Was syked on a campusboard with pinches until I found out that 50% were spinners. GUTTER!! Lack of quality control. Settled for flat rungs (non-standard spacing of course) #4 Sent 95% of the problems in the gym, expect for the problems set for double-jointed leprechauns. #5 Left shoulder is a 3 on a scale from 1 (mighty healthy) to 10 (schedule the surgery suite). Need to reprioritize durability (durability = mobility + strength, Mountain Athlete definition).

Nov 9, 2010

Clydesdale Climber

Training: 1) Continuous Climbing, .5 block

2) 3x repeats, 1 block

3) 6x3 bouldering intervals, rest as needed

4) BS, 3X5, 205

5) Press, 3x5, 130 (f)

6) Prehab

Notes: Last training session before roadtrip. No need to taper because I'm in a performance cycle. Session geared towards efficiency. My current focus on outside bouldering has lead to some bad habits. #1 - Best way to trick myself into becoming a better climber. #2 - All diffuciity levels. Rewarded myself with a hard flash every couple of sets. #4 - Way off my all time PR of 315. Choosing to be a climber. #5 Failed on last rep.

Nov 8, 2010

"Norma Jean" Project, A Gift

I view my climbing, and my life, as art.
Part of being an artist is giving gifts.

Here is my gift-
I bolted and cleaned the chunk of rock adjacent to the "Marylin Monroe" climb in Red Feather Lakes Area of Colorado, Lady Moon Trailhead to be precise. You can't miss it.

It is an Open Project.

Nov 5, 2010

Liquid Network

Training: 1) Flash Ladder, 1.5 blocks

2) Power Endurance, .5 blocks

3) Technique, .5 blocks

4) Bench, 3X5, 165lbs

5) Prehab only

Listen & Learn-
Christian Griffith

Notes: I usually leave work around 2pm, which gives me plenty of time for a nice outdoor session (I usually return to work at 8pm). However, an "emergency" came up and had a stay late. Then I choose to climb at a new area that require trail building. I ended up in the gym (OMG) to get a dose. It was fun seeing the scene again.

#1 I ran around and tried to flash everything in the gym. It didn't happen. I rationalized my choice of doing 1.5 blocks by saying, "It was volume training which I don't get outside." It is still doing shit I'm good at. #2 Stuck to "N"s . I sucked really bad. Need to work on mental tolerance to be become a better sport climber. #3 I abuse my strength. Today, I was beating it like a redheaded stepchild. I put myself on time-out by focusing on continuous movement and efficiency (not just effectiveness). #4 Focus on whole body compound movements. Yes, benching is whole body (if you do it right). I don't bench to be a better climber. I bench to be a more useful human being.

Nov 4, 2010

Soul Edition of River Blocs

These are some of my favorite problems of the season-

Problem #1 - Hard to grade because it a 1-move wonder. If I had to guess, I would say V6/7. There is a sit down start that adds ~12 feet of dead horizontal climbing that should come in at V11/12.

Problem #2 - The direct start to another line. It suits my style, i.e., crimp & go. V8/9.

Problem #3 - The alternative start/link-up to another line, very nice movement and might be V9. The direct finish is harder.