Nov 29, 2010
2) Competition Simulation
3) Threshold Bouldering/Technique
Notes: Last "Heavy Day" before the comp. Only climbing but laser focused climbing. #1 Focused on being relaxed. “Slow is smooth and smooth is fast” (Stolen from Dan John. Who probably stole it from someone else.) #2 Flash some hardish stuff. At several points, I was heel hooking hard enough to almost cramp up. I'm curious about the cause - suboptimal technique, electrolyte imbalance, hamstring weakness, leg fatigue, or something else. Focused on learning the tricks of the competition setters. Learning from the past - most national champions were from Boulder, CO and most national championship setters were from Boulder, CO. (Quite the coincidence). #3 Focused on movements that are difficult for me. #4 Advanced problem repeats with near complete rest. #5 No abs or strength training today.
Nov 27, 2010
This week's syke is a narrative, instead of the usual video, thanks to trouble with my laptop and lack of internet access (standard roadtrip stuff). I'm not much of a writer or a project climber but respect people that choose to excel at those activities. They take a distinct mental disposition (and lots of practice).
Nov 26, 2010
2) Competition Simulation
Notes: Coming off a successful 2+ week roadtrip (more about that later). New cycle - Contest Prep. Attacking specific weaknesses - reading heel hooks during flash attempts, indoor pinches, and stamina for 3 hours of sending. #1 - foot hoover, decompress, keep technique the same as grades increase (stolen from Olympic Lifting training) #2 - I flashed the second hardest problem in the gym. The hardest "problem" was 13+ moves. Most routes I do aren't 13 moves. #3 Was syked on a campusboard with pinches until I found out that 50% were spinners. GUTTER!! Lack of quality control. Settled for flat rungs (non-standard spacing of course) #4 Sent 95% of the problems in the gym, expect for the problems set for double-jointed leprechauns. #5 Left shoulder is a 3 on a scale from 1 (mighty healthy) to 10 (schedule the surgery suite). Need to reprioritize durability (durability = mobility + strength, Mountain Athlete definition).
Nov 10, 2010
Nov 9, 2010
2) 3x repeats, 1 block
3) 6x3 bouldering intervals, rest as needed
4) BS, 3X5, 205
5) Press, 3x5, 130 (f)
Notes: Last training session before roadtrip. No need to taper because I'm in a performance cycle. Session geared towards efficiency. My current focus on outside bouldering has lead to some bad habits. #1 - Best way to trick myself into becoming a better climber. #2 - All diffuciity levels. Rewarded myself with a hard flash every couple of sets. #4 - Way off my all time PR of 315. Choosing to be a climber. #5 Failed on last rep.
Nov 8, 2010
Part of being an artist is giving gifts.
Here is my gift-
Nov 5, 2010
2) Power Endurance, .5 blocks
3) Technique, .5 blocks
4) Bench, 3X5, 165lbs
5) Prehab only
Notes: I usually leave work around 2pm, which gives me plenty of time for a nice outdoor session (I usually return to work at 8pm). However, an "emergency" came up and had a stay late. Then I choose to climb at a new area that require trail building. I ended up in the gym (OMG) to get a dose. It was fun seeing the scene again.
#1 I ran around and tried to flash everything in the gym. It didn't happen. I rationalized my choice of doing 1.5 blocks by saying, "It was volume training which I don't get outside." It is still doing shit I'm good at. #2 Stuck to "N"s . I sucked really bad. Need to work on mental tolerance to be become a better sport climber. #3 I abuse my strength. Today, I was beating it like a redheaded stepchild. I put myself on time-out by focusing on continuous movement and efficiency (not just effectiveness). #4 Focus on whole body compound movements. Yes, benching is whole body (if you do it right). I don't bench to be a better climber. I bench to be a more useful human being.
Nov 4, 2010
Problem #1 - Hard to grade because it a 1-move wonder. If I had to guess, I would say V6/7. There is a sit down start that adds ~12 feet of dead horizontal climbing that should come in at V11/12.
Problem #2 - The direct start to another line. It suits my style, i.e., crimp & go. V8/9.
Problem #3 - The alternative start/link-up to another line, very nice movement and might be V9. The direct finish is harder.