Dec 18, 2013
First Ascents on Martini Bar Boulder at Mammoth Bar near Auburn, CA
Mammoth Bar is a fine area with plenty of potential for new hard bouldering and moderate sport routes.
Check out MP.com for more information.
Dec 13, 2013
Recommended: Voodoo Band
You are already stretching and foam rolling (right?). But like all things, your body will adapt and you will enter the land of diminishing returns. Enter Voodoo Band flossing:
After training hard for a couple decades, I've picked up my fair share of injuries and scar tissue. For example, I have an old meniscus tear from mountain biking that flairs up during long approaches and a current elbow tweak from a lock-off move on a project. Voodoo Band flossing helps maintain the fascia and my supple leopard status.
You can pick up a pair from Rogue Fitness.
(The dirtbag option is cutting a bicycle inner tube in half.)
Mobility is underrated in climbing. Almost every time someone falls of the top of route they blame their fitness (or even worse, their strength). I rarely hear someone blame their inability to put their body in the right position in space. Lack of mobility is amplified in outdoor climbing, with the increased subtleties of real rock and when often sending comes down to the ability to maximally use rest positions.
Extreme mobility is one of Adam Ondra's many attributes that separates him from other climbers
Dec 3, 2013
Bouldering at Auburn Cliffs, CA
Between new routing at Auburn Cliffs, I checked out the bouldering.
There is a very hard line between the lines shown above.
UPDATE: Check out the MP.com page. I'm continuing my mission to share my climbing experience with the world. Remember - More climbing is better!
Nov 29, 2013
Christmas coming early
New equipment for The Climbing Lab
Priorities:
1. Lose weight
2. Increase mobility
3. Increase finger strength
Nov 16, 2013
Saturday Syke
The parallels between Malham Cove and Owl Tor are clear and plentiful.
There are places on Earth that are special. They are playgrounds for a self-selected few to "rise above."
Nov 9, 2013
Pulling a (minor) Caldwell
I broke Rule #1, aka Don't Get Injured. I won't be climbing tomorrow.
I'll be training tomorrow.
Oct 4, 2013
Old, Heavy, & Employed
Those are my excuses.
I still plan to send.
UPDATE: I did. I sent my hardest sport climb to date (also happens to be the best and most fun climb I have climbed to date).
I still plan to send.
UPDATE: I did. I sent my hardest sport climb to date (also happens to be the best and most fun climb I have climbed to date).
Sep 26, 2013
Sep 18, 2013
Sep 16, 2013
A clinic on how to kneebar
I practice the dark art of kneebarring. It is difficult to train kneebarring in the gym. Intentional kneebars are often too easy. Unintentional knees are often present but superfluous.
The new generation of kneepads make it more accessible.
They won't make you strong but you will send.
Sep 15, 2013
Sep 10, 2013
My biggest training mistakes
Failing to stop doing the thing that caused a chronic injury. Applies to all chronic injuries.
Getting caught in a Monkey Paw Trap (i.e., not letting go of something small to gain a bigger goal). My biggest issue is being too performance-oriented in the gym when my goal is to crank at the cliff. Failing to take complete breaks from climbing and training are also examples.
Not periodizing appropriately. Training cycles that were too short to see gains (typically strength) or too long, leading to in an decrease in performance (typically power endurance). Remember - A novice climber program looks very different from an advanced climber program.
Not realizing what my true climbing limiters are and designing my training to address them. For example, my fear of falling on a rope limits my ability to send and enjoy climbing. I should spend more time practicing falling than hang dogging.
Not drinking more coffee.
Getting caught in a Monkey Paw Trap (i.e., not letting go of something small to gain a bigger goal). My biggest issue is being too performance-oriented in the gym when my goal is to crank at the cliff. Failing to take complete breaks from climbing and training are also examples.
Not periodizing appropriately. Training cycles that were too short to see gains (typically strength) or too long, leading to in an decrease in performance (typically power endurance). Remember - A novice climber program looks very different from an advanced climber program.
Not realizing what my true climbing limiters are and designing my training to address them. For example, my fear of falling on a rope limits my ability to send and enjoy climbing. I should spend more time practicing falling than hang dogging.
Not drinking more coffee.
Sep 4, 2013
A clinic on how to flash boulders
Sending boulder problems 1st go is a hard (but rewarding) discipline, requiring a combination of strength, technique, and a specific mental disposition.
I know plenty of "strong" climbers who climb nowhere near their limit on their 1st go. They tend to climb too statically with not enough faith in their climbing.
Pro Tip: Learn to let go and trust.
Aug 30, 2013
Wisdom from 2 masters
Expert level performance is hallmarked by a lack of conscious awareness but the development of performance is hallmarked by deliberate, therefore conscious, awareness. That is one of the reasons why the best athletes make the subpar coaches.
The ability to name (e.g., "monkey's tail" and "the softball throw") helps with cognitive load of learning. The language of climbing movement is woefully underdeveloped, given climbing is 4-dimensional on constantly varying terrain using the entire body. Typical climbing conversions focus on static representations of hand holds (e.g., "grab the sidepull"). That is a primary reason I am drawn to video as a better representation of a climbing.
Aug 24, 2013
Aug 20, 2013
Longs Boulder #1 of Truckee, CA - Beyond the guidebook
This is ain't John Long's boulders. This is Longs Drugstore's boulders. Buy yourself some meth precursors and head out to the woods behind the store to enjoy some chossy granite.
None of these climbs are listed in Bouldering Lake Tahoe North/West Shore Edition. They will be posted to mountainproject.com soon.
GPS:
N 39 19.153
W 120 12.925
Aug 16, 2013
Aug 14, 2013
Comparing top-level climbing movement
(Pro tip: Turn off the sound.)
I am obsessed with climbing movement, especially relative climbing movement. This video allows for direct comparison between 2 top sport climbers. Notice the difference in pacing and micro-adjustments on hand holds.
Update: Also look at the difference in flexibility and how that effects body position and movement.
Aug 12, 2013
Aug 5, 2013
"His training was beyond good and evil."
This might be the raddest video ever made.
(I'm off to look for someone to yell at me in German while I train.)
Aug 2, 2013
Jul 27, 2013
Summit Lake, CA
I spent 2 days around Summit Lake, CA. It was an amazing "alpine lite" experience. Granite boulders at altitude, chased with cocktails at a cabin.
I cleaned up and sent many problems, even one listed as a project in the new guidebook. If you are interesting checking them out, head over to MP.com.
Jul 17, 2013
A couple of problems from North Lake Tahoe, CA
Following my bliss of cleaning rocks and sharing them with the world.
Details can be be found MP.com
Jul 15, 2013
Jun 1, 2013
A clear & concise approach to training for climbing periodization
There are many ways to approach training for climbing. Each one works (for about 6 weeks). However if you are looking for long-term, consistent gains, you need a plan of action that matches that goal.
Systematic, structured climbing that oscillates with the seasons is the best plan I have found.
May 28, 2013
Bouldering near Potomac Overlook parking at Sugarloaf Mountain, MD
Selected problems near Potomac Overlook parking at Sugarloaf Mountain, Maryland
It is a pleasant area with ~8 problems (all moderates). The guide is coming soon but don’t wait for it. Enjoy now!
Parking
Potomac Overlook parking on Sugarloaf Mountain, Maryland
Approach
Walk ~500ft through the woods shadowing the road in the direction of car travel.
Boulders
N 36 15.562
W 77 23.696
May 20, 2013
Apr 22, 2013
Another classic from Great Falls National Park, MD
This is one of my favorite problems in The Park.
You can find it here:
N 38 58.929
W 77 14.420
Apr 11, 2013
Apr 8, 2013
Checkout the guide to High Ridge Park, MD
It is over at MD Guides.
I have enjoyed climbing there:
I hope many others enjoy the climbing there, too!
I have enjoyed climbing there:
I hope many others enjoy the climbing there, too!
Apr 4, 2013
Sugarloaf Mountain, MD bouldering
I have been busy killin' lichen, takin' photos, and drawin' topos.
Guide coming soon ...
Mar 12, 2013
It's The Season: Get Some!
I went to Sugarloaf Mountain, Maryland looking for potential projects and managed a free ascent of the Spiderman Route (aka The Prow), graded A5. A quick Internet search turned up the route has been free climbed before, and the free climbing version is uncreatively called Mikl's Route.
It is classic bouldering on a rope.
It is classic bouldering on a rope.
If climbing is lifting weights in the woods, this route is a Clean & Jerk.
Mar 10, 2013
A Mini-guide to Great Falls National Park: "Dam Boulder"
I am proud to present my latest guide: A Guide to the "Dam Boulder" of Great Falls National Park (Maryland Side). You can pick up a copy here.
Preface: Climbing in the National Parks of the United States of America is a sublime privilege. Great Falls National Park, both sides of the river, is no exception. Great Falls National Park is a sanctuary of natural beauty and outdoor recreation playground just outside of Washington D. C. metro area. Kayakers and roped climbers have known this for decades. Boulders are late coming to the Great Falls party. This guide is an effort to proselytize the "small amazing things" of the park.
Needless to say, the rock quality of Great Fall National Park varies. Closer to the Potomac River is generally better. The "Dam Boulder" (my nickname) is close enough to the Potomac River to yield a mighty fine climbing opportunity. The rock is highly textured but without the over-abundance of features, typical of Mid-Atlantic climbing. Enjoy! (Remember to treat the area with the respect a National Park deserves.)
Approach: Park in the parking lot across from the Old Angler's Inn in Potomac, MD (N 38 58.911 W 77 13.653). From the parking lot, walk right/upstream on the Tow Path to where the canal widens, becoming lake-like. Before crossing a bridge, turn left onto a well-established path. Follow this path for ~50 yards. Then turn right onto another well-established path. The boulders (N 38 58.986 W 77 14.275) are located to the left immediately after walking across on old dam, hence the nickname. You can see a Tow Path bridge from the boulder.
Preface: Climbing in the National Parks of the United States of America is a sublime privilege. Great Falls National Park, both sides of the river, is no exception. Great Falls National Park is a sanctuary of natural beauty and outdoor recreation playground just outside of Washington D. C. metro area. Kayakers and roped climbers have known this for decades. Boulders are late coming to the Great Falls party. This guide is an effort to proselytize the "small amazing things" of the park.
Needless to say, the rock quality of Great Fall National Park varies. Closer to the Potomac River is generally better. The "Dam Boulder" (my nickname) is close enough to the Potomac River to yield a mighty fine climbing opportunity. The rock is highly textured but without the over-abundance of features, typical of Mid-Atlantic climbing. Enjoy! (Remember to treat the area with the respect a National Park deserves.)
Approach: Park in the parking lot across from the Old Angler's Inn in Potomac, MD (N 38 58.911 W 77 13.653). From the parking lot, walk right/upstream on the Tow Path to where the canal widens, becoming lake-like. Before crossing a bridge, turn left onto a well-established path. Follow this path for ~50 yards. Then turn right onto another well-established path. The boulders (N 38 58.986 W 77 14.275) are located to the left immediately after walking across on old dam, hence the nickname. You can see a Tow Path bridge from the boulder.
Jan 29, 2013
YGMV
YMMV is shorthand to express the breadth of the human experience.
I propose YGMV - "Your Grading May Vary." Grades, a poor proxy for difficulty, change based on weather, beta, personal strengths, and size of pre-climb meals.
Let's acknowledge that YGMV and move onto more interesting problems (figuratively & literally).
I propose YGMV - "Your Grading May Vary." Grades, a poor proxy for difficulty, change based on weather, beta, personal strengths, and size of pre-climb meals.
Let's acknowledge that YGMV and move onto more interesting problems (figuratively & literally).
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