Aug 30, 2013
Wisdom from 2 masters
Expert level performance is hallmarked by a lack of conscious awareness but the development of performance is hallmarked by deliberate, therefore conscious, awareness. That is one of the reasons why the best athletes make the subpar coaches.
The ability to name (e.g., "monkey's tail" and "the softball throw") helps with cognitive load of learning. The language of climbing movement is woefully underdeveloped, given climbing is 4-dimensional on constantly varying terrain using the entire body. Typical climbing conversions focus on static representations of hand holds (e.g., "grab the sidepull"). That is a primary reason I am drawn to video as a better representation of a climbing.