The competition came this Saturday. It sucked. More precisely, I sucked. (Almost) everything was anti-Brian style setting, aka open hand/fat pinch. In the end, I placed 1st in the Advance Division (for the second time in a row). I sent Open Problem #7 (out of 10) because it was crimpy. I also put Open Problem #2, dihedral you had to climb backwards, in the satchel. (I can trad boulder with the best.) Open Problems 10-8, 6-3, and 1 were hopeless for me. In fact, I couldn't do the second move of Advance Problem #10, holding the swing on two fatties. I sent a couple of easier advanced problems to fill out my scorecard.
It was inspiring watching the frankencranks from Boulder. The top 3 men sent all the problems and were only separated by falls! The women were "beasting" it.
There are lessons to be learned and new training plans to be made. Despite the same ranking, I feel like a much better climber. At the last comp, I was only able to send Open 1. This time I was able to send 6 levels harder. It came down to the setting, which was great, exposing my limiters. My general training plan doesn't need to be overhauled, just recalibrated.
- interpreting indoor sequences
- indoor dynos
My limiters (more importantly):
- use the appropriate beta for my physiology more quickly
- crossing moves
- stepping one foot high with the other foot still on a hold
- right leg heel hooks
- open hand
- horizontal fat pinches
- vertical fat pinches