Necklaces for Cleopatra

Objective: Climbing Strength, Climbing Power Endurance, Long Intervals

Training: 1) Flash new problems, 20 minutes

2) System Board, 1-2 moves, crimp, open hand, 45 minutes

3) 4 rounds
20-30 continuous moves
rest as needed between rounds

Notes: A quick tune up in the gym. I focused on the stimuli I haven't been getting outside, very short and long.

I have heard anecdotes about climbers focusing exclusively on sport climbing becoming weaker when returning to bouldering. Why not throw in one maximum effort session a week to stay strong? "Strength is King"

But remember "Power Endurance is Queen." I focused more on moving quickly than perfectly during #3 to simulate redpoint tactics. It was little awkward making some of the link ups because I wasn't familiar with the new boulder problems.

3 Sends

LOTD, Farmhouse Sector Revisited

I was premature when I stated "I made a clean sweep of all the projects" at LOTD. I forgot about the Farmhouse Sector.

I got warm by putting up a high ball, "The Mad and Macabre" V1

"The Mad and Macabre" follows the right arete.
There is potential for more highballs but they are unfortunately low-angle.

"Invisible Invaders" V4 - sds, arete to face

I sent "Hell Down in the Cellar" Left & Right from the stand.
The sds are awkward with a poor landing.

There is a large rock blocking an "extended sds".

I'll leave the awkward sds, poor landings, and "extended sds" for the climbers that like that sort of thing.

I was able to to send a couple of low starts on the boulder closest to the road, no pictures. I'm sure those problems have been done before. I tried pulling on them last spring, and they felt very hard. A summer of intelligent training made them feel piss easy.

Too Much Developing

I need a new brush.

"The Mad and Macabre", FA

LOTD, Call Me The Broom Man

Cuz I made a clean sweep of all the projects at Land of The Dead.

Someone flipped "The Fall Switch." The temps in NoCo are prefect.
Time to send.

No More Room In Hell (Blue), V4* - sds, jug to crimps (And by No More Room In Hell, I mean my crotch. There is a weird hand/foot match.)

Twitcher (Red), V5 - sds, more jug to crimpers action

Scooby Doo on Zombie Island, V6 -Cave around the corner. Low start, LH crimp & RH sidepull, climb blunt arete

Day of the Dead, V4 - sds, LH jug RH sidepull, climb up and right

I still had time at the end of the day to find another cave. I'm doing it again tomorrow.

* These grades are suggestions. I have been doing so much training and developing my internal grading calibration unit needs to be reset.

Saturday Syke Video

Phil & Elijah are to The Tor as Tommy is to El Cap
That makes me Cedar and I'm blowing The Tor up.

Video Evidence

Here is Alex on the First Ascent of "Chutes & Ladders" -