Training: 1) Technique
2) Competition Simulation
Notes: Coming off a successful 2+ week roadtrip (more about that later). New cycle - Contest Prep. Attacking specific weaknesses - reading heel hooks during flash attempts, indoor pinches, and stamina for 3 hours of sending. #1 - foot hoover, decompress, keep technique the same as grades increase (stolen from Olympic Lifting training) #2 - I flashed the second hardest problem in the gym. The hardest "problem" was 13+ moves. Most routes I do aren't 13 moves. #3 Was syked on a campusboard with pinches until I found out that 50% were spinners. GUTTER!! Lack of quality control. Settled for flat rungs (non-standard spacing of course) #4 Sent 95% of the problems in the gym, expect for the problems set for double-jointed leprechauns. #5 Left shoulder is a 3 on a scale from 1 (mighty healthy) to 10 (schedule the surgery suite). Need to reprioritize durability (durability = mobility + strength, Mountain Athlete definition).