Mar 15, 2012

Extending "Important Training Distinction for Climbers"

Please check out Rob Miller's great post on "Important Training Distinction for Climbers" for context.

My experience is consistent with Rob Miller's thoughts. Keeping 100% intensity in my climbing training program has yielded consistent gains. Like Rob Miller, I widely modulate volume at that intensity based on my current cycle and goals.

I propose further refinement of that concept - learning to not apply that intensity unnecessarily during performance. Training at 100% "greases a groove" which is suboptimal during performance, especially in sport climbing. It is common to see sport climbers fall off because they do not properly modulate their effort. I tend to pull too hard, too often. The same concept also applies to bouldering. It is unusual for a boulder problem to require 100% effort for more than 1 move. The ability put forward 100% effort and then put foward much less effort is an essential aspect of the art of climbing performance.

I geared a part of my training towards improving my ability to self-modulate effort. It is the ying to the yang of 100% intensity.