Action Potential

I used my rest day to look for potential new routes near The Palace. I saw a couple of places for independent lines within the established areas, but I was more interested in new sectors.

I found this group of formations about 30 minutes past the Palace :

(I didn't see any evidence of development. Who knows?) This is the biggest formation in the group :

The front side of the formation:
(There at least two possible lines, one line up the arete and another line to the right on the face. I'm super siked about the face line!)

Backside of the formation:The only downside is the death-scree approach :

These formations are on the other side of canyon :As I got closer, I was drawn to the "blank" lichen wall :

Here is the wall close up:
(I see at least 7 independent lines. How many do you see?)

I didn't even bother to hike to these formations :

Video Evidence

Here are some highlights from last weekend's comp :

Eric Horst Makes Me Want To Smoke Crack

Objective : Climbing Power Endurance

Warm-up : (1) Circuit #1
(2) Mobility Drills
(3) Circuit #2

Training (1) Fail on new Open problems, 30 minutes

(2) 7 rounds
Climb Advanced Problem, 11 moves
rest 2 minutes between rounds

(3) 4X4 (Advanced, Advanced, Intermediate, Intermediate)
rest 2 minutes between sets

Notes : I got powned by the 5 new Open problems. 3 are in the cave/roof, and the other 2 are wide pinches. Sending them will be a learning experience.

The absurd repeats for #2 are a sick version of Continuous Intensity Repetitions, CIR. CIR builds strength and stamina. The more conventional version is repeating many different problems of the same grade with medium rest length. That particular problem is a good trainer : quality movement, each move is equally difficult, and many wide pinches (my indoor nemesis).

4X4 is possibly the best climbing activity for low-end power endurance. My eyes are always bigger than my forearms when picking problems for a 4X4. I'm a bit disappointed with the current baseline. My goal is Open, Open, Advanced, Advanced by the end of the cycle.

Video Evidence

The best part of my day:



Otherwise, it really sucked.

You ain’t much of a muse, I ain’t much of a poet.

Objective : Climbing Technique/ Climbing Power Endurance

Warm-up : (1) Circuit #1
(2) Mobility Drills
(3) Circuit #2

Training : (1) 5 rounds
Climb Advanced/Open problem, 3 times in a row, complete rest between climbs

(2) Climb routes, 45 minutes, easy onsights

(3) 3 rounds
30s campusing
60s rest

Notes : Today was an easy day since I was a little tired from yesterday. Repeating the same problem back-to-back with complete rest provided me with an opportunity to refine my technique. I focused on subtle changes in timing and hip position. The easy onsights allowed me to focus on using the best technique I currently possess. I capped it off with PE campusing. I went up and down the big rungs, 1-2. This is a baseline workout for the current low-end power endurance cycle.

I climbed with several CrossFitters, including a trainer. It is odd because they don't apply the same CrossFit prinicples to climbing. There is very little intensity. They basically hang out for a couple of hours and climb a couple of problems. There is very little technique work, which is a hallmark of CrossFit. They focus on getting to the top, not the process. There is very little variety. They typically climb random problems, 4-10 moves, or random routes, 15-20 moves. They miss many time and modal domains. These people know a different way to train, but don't apply it to climbing. I know the climbing gym is a social scene, but I much rather hangout outside or in a bar.

Bonus :

The Boulder Rock Club's campus board. The best campus board I have ever seen (The Shed moves to 2nd place). Notice : proper height off the ground and away from the wall, correct angle, properly spaced rungs, and 4 sizes : big, medium, small, and small upsidedown.

Punched In The Face With Awesomeness

Objective : Performance

Problems Sent(falls) : Advanced 3(flash), 4(2), 5(1), 6(flash), 7(flash)

Place : Somewhere in the middle of the Advance Pack

Problems Tried(falls): Advanced 8(3) ,9(3)
Open 1 (4), 2(3), 3(3), 4(3), 5(1)

One of the many quality problems in the comp.

Chalking up at the 3rd bolt!
Going into "route" mode on a "boulder" problem.

This problem was long and tall. It starts in lower right of the frame and finishes in the red taped box. For a quick approximation of the height, mentally stack sample climbers to reach the finish box.

BRC must have a different definition of 12 feet.

Notes : What is that taste in the back of my throat? It is puke. "Brian, why are you puking at a indoor comp?" Boulder Rock Club (BRC) decided to go really, really highball with their comp. RAD!! It was a blustery winter day, perfect for a indoor comp. Unlike CA, where winter is the crankin' season. BRC did a perfect job with the comp. The music was great (better than the National Qualifiers, during which they played techno muzak). The setting was top-notch (no gimmes and nice variety).

I warm up by flashing a bunch of problems, up to Advanced 3. I hopped on the Open problems and got shut down. I was very close put couldn't send any of them. I dropped down to Advanced to fill out my scorecard. It turns out the Open Category was heavily sandbagged. The person who finished 4th only climbed Open problems 1, 2, 3, & 4.

In the end, I could not send very hard but could climb for 3 hours. I'm definitely not a great boulderer. I kept falling on the crux moves, regardless of the length of the problem. Boy were the problems long, many problems finished between the 3rd and 4th bolt!!! Despite the height, I did not see any injuries. Overall, I had a great time and won a pair of climbing shoes at the raffle.

Bonus : I bought a new camera so expect a lot of new media. The first three pictures are actually video stills. I will post some edited video soon.

Thinking Ahead - Short-term

Objective : Planning

Notes : I just finished a Power/Bouldering Stamina cycle. I'm as ready as possible for the comp and sick of hard, long bouldering sessions in the climbing gym. My next cycle is Strength/Low-end Power Endurance. This cycle is specific to The Palace. I have been there enough times to get a feel for the type of routes. The routes are long but most of the climbing is relatively easy (for the grade) with a short crux sections (4-15 moves). If you can do the crux, you can send the route. Last weekend, I hatched a plan to send every route at The Palace before the end of the season (?). That would make for a very nice route pyramid topping out at 13a (?). It would keep me motivated with a series of short-term goals and carry me into the "real" sport climbing season.