Feb 15, 2009

You ain’t much of a muse, I ain’t much of a poet.

Objective : Climbing Technique/ Climbing Power Endurance

Warm-up : (1) Circuit #1
(2) Mobility Drills
(3) Circuit #2

Training : (1) 5 rounds
Climb Advanced/Open problem, 3 times in a row, complete rest between climbs

(2) Climb routes, 45 minutes, easy onsights

(3) 3 rounds
30s campusing
60s rest

Notes : Today was an easy day since I was a little tired from yesterday. Repeating the same problem back-to-back with complete rest provided me with an opportunity to refine my technique. I focused on subtle changes in timing and hip position. The easy onsights allowed me to focus on using the best technique I currently possess. I capped it off with PE campusing. I went up and down the big rungs, 1-2. This is a baseline workout for the current low-end power endurance cycle.

I climbed with several CrossFitters, including a trainer. It is odd because they don't apply the same CrossFit prinicples to climbing. There is very little intensity. They basically hang out for a couple of hours and climb a couple of problems. There is very little technique work, which is a hallmark of CrossFit. They focus on getting to the top, not the process. There is very little variety. They typically climb random problems, 4-10 moves, or random routes, 15-20 moves. They miss many time and modal domains. These people know a different way to train, but don't apply it to climbing. I know the climbing gym is a social scene, but I much rather hangout outside or in a bar.

Bonus :
The Boulder Rock Club's campus board. The best campus board I have ever seen (The Shed moves to 2nd place). Notice : proper height off the ground and away from the wall, correct angle, properly spaced rungs, and 4 sizes : big, medium, small, and small upsidedown.