Feb 18, 2009

Eric Horst Makes Me Want To Smoke Crack

Objective : Climbing Power Endurance

Warm-up : (1) Circuit #1
(2) Mobility Drills
(3) Circuit #2

Training (1) Fail on new Open problems, 30 minutes

(2) 7 rounds
Climb Advanced Problem, 11 moves
rest 2 minutes between rounds

(3) 4X4 (Advanced, Advanced, Intermediate, Intermediate)
rest 2 minutes between sets

Notes : I got powned by the 5 new Open problems. 3 are in the cave/roof, and the other 2 are wide pinches. Sending them will be a learning experience.

The absurd repeats for #2 are a sick version of Continuous Intensity Repetitions, CIR. CIR builds strength and stamina. The more conventional version is repeating many different problems of the same grade with medium rest length. That particular problem is a good trainer : quality movement, each move is equally difficult, and many wide pinches (my indoor nemesis).

4X4 is possibly the best climbing activity for low-end power endurance. My eyes are always bigger than my forearms when picking problems for a 4X4. I'm a bit disappointed with the current baseline. My goal is Open, Open, Advanced, Advanced by the end of the cycle.