Forecast - Heavy Choss Showers

Objective : New routes

Number of new routes completed: 2

Number of new routes started but not completed : 3

Checking out the goods

Notes : Bolted new routes on Saturday and Sunday at The Palace. Saturday was a solo mission. I put in 2 top-rope anchors at the "Mountain Athlete Wall", aka the wall of 1000 step-ups , before the snow drove me home. Jason joined me on Sunday. I meet a couple of nice local developers in the parking lot for the first time. It was a little awkward for me because I had no pants on (I had taken them off to wade across the Poudre). I was glad to know I was on the right track and not stepping on anyone’s toes.

We completed a 3 bolt 5.6 "Cherry Daiquiri", at "The Barkeep Wall". It is a short, fun, jug haul. It might be the Palace’s first 5.6. Then, Jason sacked up and onsighted a 5.9 trad route (probably a FA) to get to the top of the formation! When it came time to do my thing, I ran out of juice. Apparently, I only get 10 bolts per charge and left the other battery at home FML!!! We could only toprope the second line, "DOUBLEWHISKEYCOKENOICE". It is about 90ft long, steep, all jugs, and enough choss to keep you engaged. It still needs a lot of cleaning, but I’m guessing it is 10a/b. There are many kinds of choss. There is choss that is always choss. There is choss that cleans up nice. I hope the climb is the later kind of choss. My kind of choss.

Generally speaking, I think closed projects and secret areas don’t help the sport of climbing. I plan to publish these climbs on Mountain Project.com once they are done. It will be a little while since I don’t want anyone to get hurt or epic on half-assed lines. If you can’t wait (or want to help), let me know.

Video Evidence

I bolted routes in the snow today so I can crank in the sun tomorrow.

Simmering In Weak Sauce

Objective : Strength

Warm-up : 5 problems (up only)

Training : (1) Work Open problems, 30 minutes

(2) 3 rounds
mono hangs from large rungs
increase time each round
rest as needed

(3) Work Open problems, 30 minutes

Notes : Felt good despite only one rest day. There were more people at the gym tonight than during the comp. FML!!! My extended warm-ups provide plenty of movement practice and increase my climbing capacity. However, they are not helping my quest to be stronger. Today I got right to the meat. I sent the easiest Open problem 1st go (3 days, 8 tries). I made progress on the all the rest of Open problems. I learned a lot about movement and my ability to crank. The most important lesson learned is I always get shut down on the crux, it could the first move or the last move. I’m coming for mono campusing.

Video Evidence

Coming Soon : Passion of Christ II, staring Dean Potter

Objective: Climbing Power Endurance

Warm-up : (1) Flash 12 Recreation problems (Up and down)
(2) Mobility Drills
(3) Flash 12 Intermediate problems (Up and down)

Training : (1) Dyno Practice, 10 minutes, 2 and 1 arm

(2) Flash 6 Advanced problems (Up only)

(3) Work Open problems, 30 minutes

(4) 4X4 (Advanced, Advanced, Advanced, Intermediate)
rest 2:30 between sets

1-arm dyno practice:

Despite the less-than-serious nature of the activity, there are important lessons to be learned. I don't know of a climb that requires a 1-arm dyno, but it does teach your body a new way to move. Climbers tend to have lots of movement baggage, e.g. "I don't dyno" or "I always stay open". I'm no different. It is good to break out of the self-made mold. The Self-Coached Climber discusses transferring momentum from the lower leg to the upper leg to upper body. The difference between the last two dynos is the transfer of momentum. In the second to last dyno, I successfully shift momentum throughout my body which enables me to generate plenty of power. However, my timing is not as precise in the last dyno, and I'm unable to generate as much power. The contact strength to latch the hold is whole other topic.

Notes : There were plenty of new problems from the competition to flash. I have done every Recreation, Intermediate, and Advanced problem in the gym (flashing 99%). Then I get shut down on the Open problems. I don't think I have sent one (the Open problem in the comp I flashed got downgraded). I don't understand. My only option is to get stronger. I'm still seeing linear progress with power endurance training.

Monos & Rattlesnakes

Objective : Performance

Problems Sent : Sometimes Wet, V2, flash
Phil's Folly, V3, flash
The Buddha, V4, flash
Unknown, V4, 2nd go (loose rock fell in my mouth on the flash)
Ned's Corner, V5, flash
Berthoud, V5, 2nd go
Phillip's Problem, V5, redpoint (1st go with better sequence)

Total Points : 28

Problems Tried : After Berthoud, V6, did all the moves but wanted more pads to send

A tree growing out of sandstone conglomerate in the river.

Delicious two-finger pocket

Slippery, slopey embedded rock jug

Notes : I was forced to go to Denver for work. I tried to make the best of the situation by climbing at Castlewood Canyon. I spent most of my time lost (Thanks Bob Horan!!). I was able to find two caves, Buddha Belly and Berthoud. It was fun, steep, thug climbing on sandstone conglomerate. I'm no stranger to that type of climbing and rock. While sandstone conglomerate lends itself to a vast variety of shapes, it is inherently unstable. Poison ivy and ticks were no extra charge. The only things missing from the complete central coast of California experience were monos and rattlesnakes.

Believe The Hype

It was still too cold and windy to climb in the days after the comp. My girlfriend and I decided to check out Rock Mountain National Park. It was my first trip, and I was simply blown away. Perfect steep boulders everywhere with superb rock quality.

A lifetime of rock

Once the snow melts it's ON!

Bonus :

My new Bolt Gun It ain't no Hilti, but it'll work.