Mar 8, 2009

Forecast - Heavy Choss Showers

Objective : New routes

Number of new routes completed: 2

Number of new routes started but not completed : 3

Checking out the goods

Notes : Bolted new routes on Saturday and Sunday at The Palace. Saturday was a solo mission. I put in 2 top-rope anchors at the "Mountain Athlete Wall", aka the wall of 1000 step-ups , before the snow drove me home. Jason joined me on Sunday. I meet a couple of nice local developers in the parking lot for the first time. It was a little awkward for me because I had no pants on (I had taken them off to wade across the Poudre). I was glad to know I was on the right track and not stepping on anyone’s toes.

We completed a 3 bolt 5.6 "Cherry Daiquiri", at "The Barkeep Wall". It is a short, fun, jug haul. It might be the Palace’s first 5.6. Then, Jason sacked up and onsighted a 5.9 trad route (probably a FA) to get to the top of the formation! When it came time to do my thing, I ran out of juice. Apparently, I only get 10 bolts per charge and left the other battery at home FML!!! We could only toprope the second line, "DOUBLEWHISKEYCOKENOICE". It is about 90ft long, steep, all jugs, and enough choss to keep you engaged. It still needs a lot of cleaning, but I’m guessing it is 10a/b. There are many kinds of choss. There is choss that is always choss. There is choss that cleans up nice. I hope the climb is the later kind of choss. My kind of choss.

Generally speaking, I think closed projects and secret areas don’t help the sport of climbing. I plan to publish these climbs on Mountain once they are done. It will be a little while since I don’t want anyone to get hurt or epic on half-assed lines. If you can’t wait (or want to help), let me know.