Objective: Climbing Power Endurance
Warm-up : (1) Flash 12 Recreation problems (Up and down)
(2) Mobility Drills
(3) Flash 12 Intermediate problems (Up and down)
Training : (1) Dyno Practice, 10 minutes, 2 and 1 arm
(2) Flash 6 Advanced problems (Up only)
(3) Work Open problems, 30 minutes
(4) 4X4 (Advanced, Advanced, Advanced, Intermediate)
rest 2:30 between sets
1-arm dyno practice:
Despite the less-than-serious nature of the activity, there are important lessons to be learned. I don't know of a climb that requires a 1-arm dyno, but it does teach your body a new way to move. Climbers tend to have lots of movement baggage, e.g. "I don't dyno" or "I always stay open". I'm no different. It is good to break out of the self-made mold. The Self-Coached Climber discusses transferring momentum from the lower leg to the upper leg to upper body. The difference between the last two dynos is the transfer of momentum. In the second to last dyno, I successfully shift momentum throughout my body which enables me to generate plenty of power. However, my timing is not as precise in the last dyno, and I'm unable to generate as much power. The contact strength to latch the hold is whole other topic.
Notes : There were plenty of new problems from the competition to flash. I have done every Recreation, Intermediate, and Advanced problem in the gym (flashing 99%). Then I get shut down on the Open problems. I don't think I have sent one (the Open problem in the comp I flashed got downgraded). I don't understand. My only option is to get stronger. I'm still seeing linear progress with power endurance training.
