Video Evidence

Training Session, 09/08/09, Part I from Thrice on Vimeo.

Training Session, 09/08/09, Part II from Thrice on Vimeo.

Pareto Efficiency

Objective: Climbing Technique, Climbing Strength, Climbing Power Endurance, Short Intervals

Warm-up: 1) Flash, Rec x 2, Int x 2 (Up & down)

2) Mobility Drills

Training: 1) Technique, Twisting drop knees, 10 minutes

2) Flash, Adv X 1, Adv X fail

3) System Board, crimp, #1 & 0
open hand, upper left, match

4) System Board, big vertical moves

5) Technique, Twisting Drop Knees, 10 minutes

6) Rhythm Intervals
Level 2 X 2

Training Meal

Notes: I'm peaking just in time for fall season and trying to get out as much as possible. This session is a sampler plate to keep me sharp. I fell on my 12b flash attempt last weekend during a twisting drop knee. I'm cycling in twisting drop knees technique work for the next 4 weeks. Today I just used big holds and open feet. I failed on the Adv Flash because it was a traverse with high feet on fat pinches. Not a big deal, I don't want to get better at those type of problems. I feel the strongest I have been on the system board. I reinforced the technique work with additional practice while fatigued. A nice PR on #6.

The Palace & Beyond, Hard Projects

The forecast wasn't good for today, hot & rainy. I took a rest day and found some potential new lines.

Bat Cave
There are 3 bolts that follow the obvious weakness. I don't know the name or grade. There might just be enough holds for line going out the right. It would be very hard.

Left side of the cave. Potential for moderate line.

Right side of cave. Potential for moderate line following the arete.

This arete is in the main area of The Palace. It should be a difficult line once its bolted.

The rain picked up and I decided to scout via car. I was found the cave/wall below about a mile from the Palace. It is much steeper with higher quality rock than The Palace.

The left side from below

The entire formation from above
I most interested in the line that starts in the cave and follows the overhanging arete.

I will have to get going, there is a strong rumor of an upcoming guidebook for this section of the Poudre.

The basics

I agree with the idea of keeping it basic -
Strength, Conditioning, & Mobility.

Wild Iris, I say Wild Irish

Routes Sent: Ryobi Jr, 10b, onsight (nearly fell before 1st bolt, easy tiger)
Osita, 11a, onsight (micro pockets crux)
Hot Tamale Baby, 11d, 2nd go (so close to onsight, felt piss easy during send)

Routes Tried: Charro, 12b, bail (not syked on SERIOUS mono move)
Ruby Shooter, 12b, 1 hang (almost FLASHED)

Wild Iris Main Wall

Alex & 5.10 Wall

Wild Iris locals

Notes: We went to Wild Iris on the second day. "Hot Tamale Baby" onsight attempt ended when I went to nonticked pocket first, silly mistake. I bailed on the 2nd bolt of "Charro". I love monos, but I don't want to jump off monos. I got a rare opportunity for a flash attempt on Ruby Shooter after watching several people on it. I fell at the second, slightly, easier crux when I didn't use a ticked jug. I'm starting to see a pattern. That crux revolves around a twisting drop knee. I need to get better at those.

Sinks Canyon, The Start of SENDtember

Session #1
Location: Shady Side Crag
Routes sent: Unknown, 10(?), onsight (left of Imagrinary Fans)
Unknown, 10(?), onsight (2nd on left of Imagrinary Fans, 1 hard move)
Imaginary Fans, 12a, 3rd go (3rd anchor, felt piss easy)

Coffee Break

Session #2
Routes sent: Duck Soup, 9, Onsight (really good, nice rewarm-up)
Second Hand Nova, 11a (brick hard start, kept it together)

Routes Tried: Bush Docter, 12b, 2 tries (BTB, 2 hang, should go quick if conditions are good)

11 bolts to the hard bit
Photo courtesy of Kitiara P.

Dangling at the end of the rope, going to have to get used to it.
It's Redpoint Season.
Photo courtesy of Sophie D.

Notes: @ and I rolled into Lander for Labor Day. We went to the Sinks, which is just starting to get good. I finished off "Imaginary Fans" with little effort. "Bush Doctor is fun but chipped to all hell. I suck on chipped routes, which is surprising consider the amount of gym climbing I do. The start is a bit grovelling to lame lateral slab dyno. then it get really good. I skipped a bolt during the crux and took a good size fall.

Factory Coil

Objective: Climbing Technique, Strength

Training: 1) Flash Routes, up to mid 12, 2.5 hours

2) Train various gymnastic movements - 1 arm pull up (assisted concentric), straddle front lever (4-5s), one legged deck squats, flat back tuck, strict MUs, L-sit scissors (3X10)

Notes: Awesome training session at BRC in Boulder. I tried to flash every 12 in the gym, I got most of the them. I felt strong with enough endurance to barely hang on, basically where I want to be as a sport climber. I did find a weakness (which gets me amped to destroy it) - big greasy macros. It stems from a lingering weakness with hard matches. Given the indoor comp looming, I got to get on it.

I'm still in the Novice stage with gymnastics training, easy gains by just doing it. I'll buckle down and create a program soon.

Bonus: This exactly how I feel. After I climb, I rather hear "you should've used the higher foot on the crux" than "Good job, bra." Getting to the top is not the only goal.