Sep 1, 2009

Factory Coil

Objective: Climbing Technique, Strength

Training: 1) Flash Routes, up to mid 12, 2.5 hours

2) Train various gymnastic movements - 1 arm pull up (assisted concentric), straddle front lever (4-5s), one legged deck squats, flat back tuck, strict MUs, L-sit scissors (3X10)

Notes: Awesome training session at BRC in Boulder. I tried to flash every 12 in the gym, I got most of the them. I felt strong with enough endurance to barely hang on, basically where I want to be as a sport climber. I did find a weakness (which gets me amped to destroy it) - big greasy macros. It stems from a lingering weakness with hard matches. Given the indoor comp looming, I got to get on it.

I'm still in the Novice stage with gymnastics training, easy gains by just doing it. I'll buckle down and create a program soon.

Bonus: This exactly how I feel. After I climb, I rather hear "you should've used the higher foot on the crux" than "Good job, bra." Getting to the top is not the only goal.